[BrashRooster]

Hello every one,
   Ok so I love my C5 military and have been doing just fine! The problem I seem to be having is most likely rider error. I have been going about on two lane and when I go to shift to 5th I get a false neutral. I am not for sure if it is my soft leather shoes (my Onmyodo Tatsu Ne shoes) or just my crap riding skills causing the issues. I noticed when I took more time and paid more attention to what I was doing I seldom couldn't find 5th. The question is why can I hit the other gears but not 5th and does any one have any advice to why I am missing 5th?

  The other issue was when passing I had some hella crazy wobble going on. The only other time I had any wobble was hitting a bad section of road but any bike would have done that.  The bike has stayed very consistent with steering until I had to pass a pick losing gravel from its bed. I think it was about 70 mph (and only long enough to pass ).  I have to say this bike is very smooth and steady not to mention comfortable for me. When I go in for my break in service should I have them check it out? I do not get any kind of wobble at all until I pass 65mph.  I have passed a few cars after that and it seems like if I get above 65mph it gets wobbley.  I don't plan on ever riding above 65 for any period of time other then to pass, no need really because the majority of the time I am on two lane with 55 speed limit so I do 60mph. No wobble at these speeds (unless I don't see a pot hole).

One last thing and its kinda of stupid, would a pin up girl (WWII bomber girl) be tacky on the oval tool box lid?

[The Garbone]

+100 on the pinup girl,  need examples to really judge though..   

[hocko]

BR Hi, don't know about the pinup girl, never had much to do with one, but check and recheck you clutch cable adjustment. Sould be between 1/8" and 0.0" at the lever. I was still having trouble after doing this and then I found that the cable was stretched. replaced the cable and readjusted to the 1/8", no further problems Not knowing what mileage you have on your bike, the cable may not be the problem. Just don't rush the changes, nice and easy, change up early and down late.

Good Luck, cheers 

[Hobbydad]

My '11 C5 was doing the same thing, but it was 4th I was always missing. It was totally my fault, started giving it a sec or so after I grabbed the clutch to shift, after that it was fine. The more miles I put on it, the smoother it got. Now it's a quick grab & flick, just over 1100 miles.

[BrashRooster]

as to the pin up girl it would be a non nude of course. I haven't started looking for what I want but a friend of mine is a artist in St. Louis area, she has done some work already similar to what I was thinking. I am not for sure what she charges so I might have to find another artist.

I will have to check the cable. I seem too only have issues with 5th. So maybe I will get lucky and not have to adjust or change the cable maybe I just need to wear some different shoes. :-)  I remember having problems with my little 250 rebel due to a pair of shoes. I was also thinking about recently missing a few shifts on my Yamaha XJ650 and I am pretty sure it was the same shoes. First I will check the cable and then if its good I will switch to something other then my Tatsu Ne.  Damned good looking shoes they are.

[hocko]

The shoes may well be the problem, I have a slightly bent up left footpeg, so much so that I have a pair of sneakers to ride into work on and then change into my work shoes when i get here. Good luck with it.

Cheers 

[idk]

Take care with the gear change - it will probably get smoother and better with a few miles on it. Also it should improve after you put new oil in after the first change, especially if you use semi-synth oil.

As far as the wobbling goes, check you tyre pressures. Mine wobble like crazy at high speed until I let some air out. The dealer had way too much air in there and when I set it up according to the manual the wobbling went away.

[Arizoni]

Brash:
Pardon me for asking but what the hell are you doing riding your unbroken-in motorcycle at 60, 65 or 70 mph?  At least I figure it hasn't passed its 600 mile break in because you said, "When I go in for my break in service should I have them check it out?".
Don't answer because it is a rhetorical question.

My book says that during the break in period under 600 miles the maximum speed should be kept to 50 mph.

OK, I'll get down off my soap box and ask, what are your tire pressures?

These bikes come with some really stiff sidewall tires and some have found that running 18 psi in the front tire and 24 psi in the rear helps a lot.

As for the shifting, these bikes need a long firm movement of the shift lever to get the gears fully engaged.
A quick, half hearted jab or lift just won't do the job.
As the transmission and the shift mechanisms wear in it will become easier to get the transmission fully into gear but it will never shift like the Japanese bikes do.

[JVS]

Yeah. Gotta take care of it in the break-in period. I hope you didn't ride it at those speeds for long periods of time.

Otherwise yours must've got accustomed to those type of speeds early on? O_O

And as Arizoni said, they need a firm movement of the shifter. You'll get used to it eventually

[GSS]

Brash,
The false neutrals will go away as the engine and transmission get fully broken in. Until then keep your clutch cable slack at the minimum (about 2mm).

The wobble is a well described C5 quirk. Here is my previous link that may be helpful. Since then I have put in a 19" front wheel as well.....this was the RE fix initially introduced in India and now being sold as a C5 "special" for additional cost in the US.

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,12379.0.html

GSS

[barenekd]

My dealer has the "C5 Special" at the same price as the regular C5.

As far as shifting goes, have you heard of the study that shows if people go up a flight of stairs and one step in one (1) millimeter higher than the rest, the prople will trip on that one?
It's like the Enfield shifter, one gear may require that extra millimeter of lever travel. You have just tripped on it.
It just takes that little bit of extra effort to get it into gear. On most of the bikes, it's fourth, but results may vary.
It's just you and the bike learning how to play together.
Bare

[GSS]

My dealer has the "C5 Special" at the same price as the regular C5.

That is good to hear.

[BrashRooster]

Brash:
Pardon me for asking but what the hell are you doing riding your unbroken-in motorcycle at 60, 65 or 70 mph?  At least I figure it hasn't passed its 600 mile break in because you said, "When I go in for my break in service should I have them check it out?".
Don't answer because it is a rhetorical question.

Maybe you should consider all the facts before berating some one. For starters I DON'T HAVE A MANUAL because the dealership forgot to put it in the bike before I took delivery. Second passing a pickup truck loaded with gravel and the tail gate down was a safety issue (rocks falling out). I don't believe you would have stayed behind that truck either and I had 6 other bikes behind me with out the luxury of being able to take a leisurely approach to passing. As to riding yeah I was doing 55-60mph before the 600 mile break in. This was the dealerships DEMO and has been test road by people other then me.  Do you honestly believe that every one that test road this bike did every thing that the manual said you should do? So instead of getting off your soap box how about you get off your high horse.

[Arizoni]

I knew you would understand.

[JVS]

Maybe you should consider all the facts before berating some one. For starters I DON'T HAVE A MANUAL because the dealership forgot to put it in the bike before I took delivery. Second passing a pickup truck loaded with gravel and the tail gate down was a safety issue. I don't believe you would have stayed behind that truck either and I had 6 other bikes behind me with out the luxury of being able to take a leisurely approach to passing. As to riding yeah I was doing 55-60mph before the 600 mile break in. This was the dealerships DEMO and has been test road by people other then me. Do you honestly believe that every one that test road this bike did every thing that the manual said you should do? So instead of getting off your soap box how about you get off your high horse.

Oh mate, I'm pretty sure (and others will confirm) he didn't mean that in a degrading way. You took it too seriously.

Even if you didn't have the manual, one might still think "it's a brand new bike, I shall be careful with the speed" etc. If that dealer 'forgot' to put the manual in, and they haven't even told you what you should do in the break-in period, they must be really bad (Unless I'm not following this properly). I'm surprised, even if its the dealership demo model.

Accelerating to avoid risks/possible accidents is acceptable, or say, you did have to speed in 1 out of 6 situations, that is still fine. But one still thinks about speeding/revving on a brand new motor, whether it be a car or a motorcyle.

Arizoni/Jim is one of the most respected/knowledgeable/helpful people on this forum (and again, others can confirm). We all want you to enjoy your RE. We are in the same boat.

And now you know about the break-in etc, just ask your dealer to commit extra time and care for your service and do ask him about this.

[BrashRooster]

usually when some one asks me what in the hell I am doing or was thinking I take that as being serious and quite offensive.

[JVS]

Well, I understand that. But in this case, as I said, he didn't mean it in an 'offensive' way. Plus, it was a legit 'what the hell' moment.

Oh well, it's done now. Moving on 

[Arizoni]

OK.
BrashRooster:
I apologize for the offensive remark.
My reason for saying it the way I did was based on the explicit instructions given in the Owners Manual which basically say that 40 mph is the maximum speed for the first 300 miles and 50 mph is the maximum speed until the bike reaches 600 miles.

It seemed difficult for me to believe that anyone could have read this and then totally ignore it by running the new motorcycle at speeds of 60-70 mph.
 
I also think the Dealer should have made every possible effort to give you the Owners Manual and in the absence of that, at least told you that the first 600 miles should be ridden at low, easy speeds.

I'm sure you will agree that the fact that the motorcycle was a demo and was probably ridden without regard to the engines break needs in reality means that some extra care might be a good idea now to help it work thru the rest of its break in period?

Whether you accept my apology or not, the information I gave concerning the tire pressures and shifting still apply.

[Lwt Big Cheese]

Don't sweat it Ariz. You weren't offensive.

If you ever think I'm doing something I shouldn't be doing you yell at me.

[wildbill]

i don't think an apology is in order here. any thing mechanical and new requires a bit of care and some common sense!

[GreenMachine]

Peace n Love..Peace n Love...

[Arizoni]

Thanks guys.

I guess I should add that before I went off on a tangent and wrote my original post I was remembering that this Military is not the first "new" Royal Enfield  BrashRooster owned.
As some of you may recall he got a brand new B5 back in August, 2011 and ended up putting over 2000 miles on it before its  problems caused him to take it back to the dealer to fix it.
I took it for granted that the B5 and the C5 would have come with an Owners Manual describing the break in period.  I guess the original B5 didn't have a Manual with it either?

Anyway, let's ride on to jollier subjects.

[dick_deck]

I think I had someone 'sternly' advise me about the break in period too. It's apparently a very serious subject!
The problem I had was my dealer told me it was 50 miles... five zero. I was up to 400 by the time someone on the forum asked 'whiskey tango foxtrot!?'

At least I can report no serious problems yet from running 50-65 before the 600 mile mark.

It's also good to hear about the false neutrals going away after break in, as I keep finding them as well. I think my biggest one is 3rd to 4th gear. I always have to shift up to 5th, then back down to 4th. I can only shift down if I STOMP, and then it goes into 2nd.

And for the wobbles I am also trying the lower rear tire pressure trick. I had found that same topic a few weeks back. However, I haven't hit any substantial enough speeds since then to confirm.

Also, for pin ups I have attached my vote for reference!

[BrashRooster]

Thanks guys.

I guess I should add that before I went off on a tangent and wrote my original post I was remembering that this Military is not the first "new" Royal Enfield  BrashRooster owned.
As some of you may recall he got a brand new B5 back in August, 2011 and ended up putting over 2000 miles on it before its  problems caused him to take it back to the dealer to fix it.
I took it for granted that the B5 and the C5 would have come with an Owners Manual describing the break in period.  I guess the original B5 didn't have a Manual with it either?

Anyway, let's ride on to jollier subjects.

Maybe I am illiterate have you considered that?

[GlennF]

Actually, its very controversial, but some people claim long break-ins are a leftover from 1920's engineering and modern engines break in BETTER with harder work ...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Personally I stick to the recommended break-in to avoid any warranty hassles but that website is well worth a read.

[BrashRooster]

I wouldn't call how I ride my bike hard or hot roding. As to why the dealership forgot the manual idk but it was a rather hectic day for both of us.

I don't remember a damned thing about the break in from last year. Lets just say that the B5 is water under the bridge and leave it at that.  I will let you speculate all you want as to what was wrong with that bike, even if you think I was the trouble.

Good to know you are so concerned with my bike would you mine taking over the payments?

I came here with some questions and got information from several people with out any interjections of condemnation and I am truly appreciative of that. Thank you.

[GlennF]

I wouldn't call how I ride my bike hard or hot roding. As to why the dealership forgot the manual idk but it was a rather hectic day for both of us.

If you are talking about a 2011 B5 he did not forget it.

There was no English language manual for the export B5 when it first came out so the bikes were originally sold without a manual. I did not get one with my bike either.

[Lwt Big Cheese]

When I rebuilt the top end of mine at Christmas I took it easy, but not too easy.  Down hills let her have her head. Up hills don't lug (as you chaps call it).

Rev through the gears but don't over load or rev to high, don't keep at a constant speed, and don't over heat.

BUT how do you tell someone else what those feelings are when to change?

 


Now Brooster, about riding in shoes...

 

[Kevin Mahoney]

1. Pin-up girl on cover = NOT tacky
2. Almost always the shifting trouble is operator induced. It doesn't make anyone stupid or a poor rider. You have to shift the bike firmly and thoroughly. It has a long throw. Shoes absolutely make a difference especially new boots or heavy shoes. We have had more than one bike where the owner has sworn it falls out of gear and misses shifts. When we put that person on a "known to never miss a shift" bike it starts missing shifts. Then we ride the customers bike and find we can't make it miss a shift.

By now most of us are used to Japanese bikes where to just click the shifter to shift it. The RE takes a real shift. They also do get a lot better in terms of smoothness etc. as they break in...or do we just get better with them?

[BrashRooster]

I wore some boots today because soon as I got out of the tractor I went over to my friends to check out a helmet he painted for me.  Well I never missed a single shift. I use to always where boots or some kinda heavy shoe when riding but recently I got into the habit of wearing my comfy shoes. Looking back I think I had troubles with a pair of Vans and my little 250 Rebel.


I am thinking the 19 inch front tire might be the way to go but I would wait at least until it was time to get new ones. Not sure about that either just because I have my XJ650 if I want to hop on the highway. I spend most of my riding time on 2 lane when I travel at 55-60mph which is a whole lot funner on the C5! I live out in the country with some crappy roads I rather like the way the C5 handles versus the XJ650 at low speeds for maneuvering around obstacles such as pot holes. My XJ650 is shaft driven but honestly I think the C5 is a smoother ride (although my XJ now needs new rear shocks, only lasted 30 years sheesh lol). Hmmm oh the mpg on the XJ650 is 52 and I think I was getting about 80mpg on the C5.  Maybe I should just sell the XJ and buy the front wheel? Spend the rest of the money getting some pin up girls painted.      


The preacher from church and the deacon rode out to the farm today and both of them had a fit over the C5. 

oh and the C5 is a whole hell of a lot more comfortable then my 1982 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim and I had the seat re-done.  First bike with a stock seat that didn't make me squirm after 20 miles. Plus no leg cramps or arm aches. Yeah I think that the Maxims days are numbered.

[hillntx]

I thionk the soft shoes are probably the culprit for the missed shifts.  I typically ride in boots, but when I ride in other shoes I periodically have shifting issues.  I have a stable of bikes, but of them all, I find the C5 the most fun under 55 mph.

[dick_deck]

Now that you mention it, I think I have the opposite problems. When I ride with my tennis shoes, I miss less shifts. But my boots I miss more. I think it's cause my boots barely fit between the shifter and the peg, so I just rock my foot backwards, whereas with my shoes I literally lift my leg to shift. I'll be more conscious of this in the future. Thanks Kevin!

[BrashRooster]

Coming home from the dealership (break in) I found that if I brought my hands closer together I no longer have a wooble even in the strong wind today.

[john hut]

I don,t think the missed gears improve with milage ,only that you become more adapt to riding technique the more that you ride

[ROVERMAN]

+1 JH.

[BrashRooster]

I need to go boot/shoe shopping soon! Ok so as I had posted earlier on the way home I adjusted my grip before trying to get up to the wobble speed and it almost completely stopped the wobble. I only had trouble when I pass a garbage truck and half way through passing I got the dreaded wobble.  There is a few things that came to mind, first off it is windy 30mph windy, perhaps I shifted my weight as if I was leaning on my XJ and it isn't a XJ making it a bit more off balanced and then there is the whole fact I am new to the C5 and the passing technique is a little different then any bike I had.

  Can weight and seating position be affecting the bike as well? All the same I think most of my wombat concerns have been sorted out. I can maintain highway speeds with no wobble by adjusting how I grip the handle bar and scooting back a little.  That was my only real concern after shifting and well I am certain it was the shoes and I wasn't actually worried it was the bike I knew it had to be me (though the cable was a concern at first but it is just fine). I hope I never have a need to hit the interstate but at least now I have the confidence in my self and the machine. So passing wobble free at speed is my next thing to work on. 


My C5 Military has 650+ miles on her now, knock on metal everything has been trouble free. I am 100% satisfied and very very happy to have the bike! I am damned proud of my bike, I keep it garaged of course so my other bike is a little jealous out in the the barn.   

[gremlin]

...snip...
 I am new to the C5 and the passing technique is a little different then any bike I had.
...snip...

passing ?   with a Royal Enfield ?   ....  I didn't know that was possible.

[BrashRooster]

ok so now I have 1100 miles and I only occasionally miss a shift even with my old shoes. I have discovered the wobble was mainly my fault because I was not use to the steering on the C5. Changing grip at higher speeds and for me scooting back a little on the seat almost always takes out any wobble. I do get a little wobble if I hit a bump at speed but I kinda expected that much.

  I love my C5 military!!!! At this rate I will need to stock up on oil and filters. 

  I purchased a solo rack with optional pillion seat as the catalog indicated being compatible but it isn't and that is not  a real issue because we are going to make it fit. I like the look of the rack and the seat seems pretty nice.  I might have to make some changes to the legs on the rack and drill a couple holes in the fender but it would look pretty nice on the bike.

[BrashRooster]

yes passing can happen, besides the time with the truck spewing out gravel I had passed an elderly man doing 40 in a 55.    I have had to make a few short rides on the interstate to get to where I needed to go and 65mph kinda makes me nervous (had to go 8 miles).  I usually cruise 55/60mph on two lane. I have had other bikes and have done a lot of interstate riding over the years and this is why I  mainly travel two lane every where. I use to take my 250 Rebel for a long ways on the interstate and that was very tense at times.

The way things have been going with my C5 I will be looking to buy a 750 if they ever come out with one and keep my C5 as well.  I am probably sticking a for sale sign on my XJ650 pretty soon here. I have a lot of confidence in the C5 so I don't think I need to keep a second bike around any longer. Unless I keep it until I pay this one off just to save $120 a year on my insurance (multiple bikes I pay $10 a month liability on the XJ and save $10 a month on my C5 so with out the XJ it goes up $240 a year).

[BrashRooster]

Oh and when I do my checking for loose nuts and bolts routine I have only had to snug a few nuts up. None was half way off, just hanging on, or missing.  Wow I am still impressed at how smooth she is. Should name her Olive I think.  I am diligent about keeping my chain lubed and avoiding fast take offs so I have only had to adjust the chain once. Not sure as to what normal chain adjustment is on these things but I had adjusted it right at 600 miles. Maybe my getting use to the bike is why it needed it early? I think I read on here people adjusting them about every 1000? I know on my 250 and my CB550 I was adjusting about every 300 miles.

[barenekd]

Wait a short while. You'll be adjusting the chain quite often. Then you'll have a reason to go to a quality Oring chain.
Isn't your C5 smoother than the eXceSs650? I always thought the XS on those things was their nomenclature for vibration!
Bare

[BrashRooster]

I have the XJ not XS, the xj has a dohc inline 4 and a shaft drive. Right now my C5 is smoother because I blew the seals out of the rear shocks (original 1982 shocks, think they would last longer then 30 years. lol).  I have always wanted to pick up a xs I hear they are something to ride.

Chains normally are not a pain for me but those snail cams hehehe but I will leave them on.  A good O ring chain and lube!  I lost a 520 chain off of a Honda 250 rebel at 85mph on I55.  That made me a believer in quality chains and stopped buying el cheapo. 

[barenekd]

Right now my C5 is smoother because I blew the seals out of the rear shocks (original 1982 shocks, think they would last longer then 30 years. lol).

Did you blow the shocks out on the Yamaha or RE? If you blew them out on the RE then you'd definitely have a smoother ride!
Bare

[BrashRooster]

I blew the seals on the XJ. I was on a mission to get some where in a hurry and hit a bump on Interstate 255 right by East Saint Louis at 90mph. Got to the dentist office and when I came out I seen oil on the hub of the rear wheel. I instantly freaked thinking I cracked the shaft or something. Upon closer inspection it was the seal on the rear shock, checked the other side and same story.

The C5 is pretty smooth but that is my opinion. I have ridden some pretty rough riding bikes, my favorite bumpy ride was the Honda 250 Rebel.

[BrashRooster]

I am thinking it is probably a good idea to change my oil a little more frequently then posted in the book. That is just based on that amount I ride. I don't always ride as much as I have been but it seem the chapter never official dissolved and yesterday I road with the ministry.  If we start being active then I will certainly by keeping up this pace.  Any recommendations on oild brands/types? Is there any K&N hi flow oil filters for the 500 uce?  Would that be of any real benefit?  I am some where around 1300 miles.  While riding these questions popped into my head.

 Other questions about the chain. When I replace is does any one have any recommendations for the chain to replace it with. Yes I am thinking a head here.  How about wax vs lube?  Xring wont work with a C5?

I had people at a gas station taking pictures of my bike! wow that is cool! The guy came over and actually knew it was new and said he rally liked that bike it was the first RE he had seen in person. 

[BrashRooster]

double post! lol oh no!     

          No wobble, no miss shifts....... yeah I needed broke in on the C5 not the C5 need broke in.  This is absolutely the best bike I have ever had!!!   I started kicking it now just to look cool. You know the ladies dig it ;-)  well they usually just laugh at my little goofy ass kicking it.

[JVS]

Good to see that you are loving your RE. Always puts a smile on your face

Be careful with it though, especially with the center stand and stuff, I dropped it recently doing a speed of 0 km/hr.

[Ducati Scotty]

No K&N oil filters, stock is about all you can get.  I change mine every 2000 miles as do many others here.  Any name brand semi-synthetic or full synthetic will do fine.  If you can't find 15w50 you can use 20w50 in temps above 32F.

Any name brand size 530 chain will do.  O and x ring chains are easy to maintain and last a long time.  Youll get decent life from a traditional chain if well cared for.  I generally prefer spray on waxes or DuPont Teflon spray for o/x-ring chains and something a little thicker on traditional chains. 

Scott

[Arizoni]

I am thinking it is probably a good idea to change my oil a little more frequently then posted in the book.
If you do a lot of short rides that is a good idea.
If your rides are longer so the engine oil gets hot, longer distances between oil changes can be used but I think that going 1500-1700 miles between changes is asking a lot from your oil.
New oil is pretty cheap insurance against wear.
...  Any recommendations on oil brands/types?
Any oil made specifically for motorcycles or diesel engines.
I like Mobil-1 V Twin but some like Shell Rotella-T diesel oil.
...Is there any K&N hi flow oil filters for the 500 uce?
No.
  Would that be of any real benefit? 
No.

 Other questions about the chain. When I replace is does any one have any recommendations for the chain to replace it with.
Any #530 chain with the correct number of links.
There are several good foreign chain companies like DID or EK.  I used a Diamond brand chain because its made in the USA.
  How about wax vs lube?
There are many good chain lubes on the market. 
I use PJ1 Black Label and am quite happy with it.
  Xring wont work with a C5?
I think the O-Ring chains will work but I'm not sure about the X-Ring chains.
IMO, the cast iron rear sprocket will need lube anyway so why not save the extra money these high end chains cost and buy a can of chain lube?

[BrashRooster]

right on and thanks. I ride a lot of short 200 mile round trips so I was thinking ever 1200 miles. Idk if that will make a real difference.

[BrashRooster]

Started hacking away at the black solo rack with optional pillion seat that is not compatible with a C5 Military.  Al most done got some welds to finish in the morning and then some paint.  I do need to by touch up paint as there was some minor scratches in the process of fabricating new legs for the rack. No big deal a little touch up and no one will ever know. Thinking about painting it OD green but for the time being black.  I will post pics of the finish product.  So far I think it looks great but that is my opinion.

[BrashRooster]

Well he is a preview. Not done mind you but that about it. Needs paint and finish the welds then put it back on the bike.  Hope it doesnt look to tacky.

[motorat]

i like the crash bars and the rack.
i will be looking at a military this weekend.
i vote for green on the rack and crash bars.
nice work.

[gremlin]

That rear rack looks nice, Is it centered fore or aft of the axle ?

[BrashRooster]

Needs paint touch ups. Mounted to fender where  the fender guards attach what ever you call the round tubes.

[BrashRooster]

I haven't had a test dummy I mean victim ride on it yet.  I hope it rides just well.  I sat on it while on the center stand and it feels pretty comfortable no squished in feeling. 

[BrashRooster]

Added bags but I have to find some where to tie down to.  May not be as atractive as stock but I get around and its nice to have bags and sone where to put a gal.

[BrashRooster]

Do these bags make my rear end look fat? Ok here is the deal for once I am asking for your honost opinion about my new setup. Tell me like it is. I want to know if it looks taky or just akward. Maybe some one thinks it looks plain dumb or too amaturish. I am biased so it looks pretty good to me. I set out to make it two up and having the solo rack available and got the one out of the catalog. Those bags was for bigger bikes like vstar 1100 and HD bikes. I already had them and love them on long trips but do they look bad on my c5?

[Ducati Scotty]

They look big but not bad at all.  All bags of any usable size look big on a bike.  I think the way you have them placed is nicely set and looks good.

Scott

[GreenMachine]

they don't seem much bigger than the  ammo cans that the fellows are putting on their machines..Probably because they are black, makes them appear bigger..They're free at this point..Do u have expendable cash for for something different? Do they come off easy enough when u feel like changing up...What any of us really think is irrelevant as to what you like or find useful...GM

[gremlin]

The rear bags look good, the front one ~ not so much.

[BrashRooster]

Lol Gremlin and thanks.  Those was added before the rear bags. They will be placed one each side in the bags. One is tools the other was extra grear like long sleeve shirt, amber googles, spare dew rag, cut off gloves and guantlet gloves. 
 
If I ever need to make room in the saddle bags at least I can throw them back on the cattle catcher

[BrashRooster]

Ok I did a little getting out today. I stopped at a custom chopper shop where I kinda know the guys a little more then on a customer level (friends of my bro in law). So the owner was on about liking the bike and I decided perfect time to ask him what I came down the for. I want a custom pedestrian slicer made for my C5 military that looks tough or well industrial some thing different. He had never had thought about making one before but he fell in love with my bike and was completely into the idea.  So now he is going into designing one. This will be a while because he is knee deep in building bikes (awesome for him!) but he will do it.  No idea what it will set me back but these guys are artist so I am sure it will be worth it. 

  So I got a hold of an old friend from high school who moved back to the old neighborhood. He went to Chicago to art school back in the day and that's how he makes his money sitting at home. Good for him! I told him about the WWII pin up girl or bomber girl (the girls on airplanes what are they called).  He said he never thought of doing anything like that but yeah that sounded like a lot of fun. He asked for picks of the oval cover and pics of the bike. Once again not sure when he will actually get paint on bike but he already started looking around for some inspiration. Not sure about the cost but once again this guy is worth it. I have seen a lot of his stuff he has been paid for and its amazing. He seems really excited about this, he doesn't ride but he thinks bikes are cool and mine is awesome. 

 So with a little patience and some cash I will have a custom front numbers plate and some art. The only thing after that is maybe another girl on the battery cover.  Tire pump? Do they actually work pretty good I mean they should for the price lol?

[Desi Bike]

How about a number plate that incorporates an Indian style 'hood' ornament in front, maybe a marker light flowing into the plate from a hood ornament?

[BrashRooster]

I spoke with the artist that said they will do the painting. Well he really wants to do this now and has a few different things for me to look at and choose from. The question is what kind of paint do you use? It is mainly the clear coat that is important right or do I need to buy some hardener and reducer? He has never painted any kind of vehicle before. I have but not a painting. So does any body know about autobody graphics that could tell me what I need to pick up for my artist?

[BrashRooster]

Oh I should mention that this guy is actually really talented and went to art school in Chicago.  So I have high hopes based on what I have seen from his paintings. He is working from home and is raising his kid. He was thinking maybe this might get him into something different that he can do on the side. I will have him do the battery cover too if the tool box lid looks good. 

[Arizoni]

Here's a link to some WW 2 Bomber art

http://www.google.com/search?q=world+war+2+bomber+art&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=krg&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=zEzqT8v4BKWe6AGur7XWAQ&ved=0CFcQsAQ&biw=1680&bih=899

[BrashRooster]

Thanks Arizoni, I am fairly sure that is what he used to get a general idea and there is a lot of pics to look at! I told him to relax just visualize a hot chick then paint her in a provocative pose scantly clad or nearly nude.

 

Was going to name the bike Olive so I figured I can have him paint Ornery Olive on it?  I might reconsider the left side  battery cover. I am thinking maybe one chick on there is cool and two is too much. At least with the oval lid the shape kinda makes for a good back drop.

[Arizoni]

Just so you don't have him paint Popeye's Olive.
http://www.google.com/search?q=popeye+and+Olive+photo&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=Mbl&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=6JPqT-ThL8KL2AWw4anKAQ&ved=0CEMQsAQ&biw=1680&bih=899

It might be fitting for the WW 2 time period but talk about UGLY?

[GlennF]

Girls sitting astride large bombs always has a certain phallic appeal

[BrashRooster]

2130 miles as of today.   

[BrashRooster]

oh and I replaced the stock running lights with led lights as in singh5 video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMCSEraYCxM  I live close to St. Louis so with basic postage I got them the next day in the mail! 

The art work is on hold until I get enough money together to get the paint.  The local Honda/Yamaha dealerships artist told me what I needed to buy.

Any one use Champion chain lube? I really hope this stuff is worth more then snot. It was late and I couldn't hit any of the local bike dealerships so I went to Walmart and figured the Rustoleum (I think that is what it was.) chain lube worked out for me pretty well. I wanted PJ11 Blue but Walmart doesn't carry it and the other stuff was all sold out. I asked if there was any over stock and I was told that the Champion lube was all I had to choose from.  I figured any lube has to better then no lube at all. Told the gasto doc that when he did my colonoscopy. Being cheap (ok I admit it I am poor not cheap) that I am I will use up this can before buying some PJ.  Maybe this stuff will be ok?

 OIL OIL OIL!!! Sorry but I was a bit vexed by the Motul and the other brand of 15w50 oil with esters cost. So I asked the Honda/Yamaha dealer to look up the Yamalube semisynth 15w50 that they use to sell. Looks like they only sell full synth 15w50 at $18 a quart. WOW I am sticking with the $17 a liter from my local shop because I am to lazy to figure out which is cheaper by doing a simple conversion and basic math.  Seriously I figure I may as well keep buying the oil from my RE dealer. I have been paying for the oil changes except for the first one which two days later the break in maintenance was done. I am going to try to stick with paying them to do the oil changes while under warranty.  Which has nothing to do with the warranty my reason that is.  I figure it supports the RE dealer and at the rate I am having to get oil changes I should be earning some frequent flyer miles or something. lol The only reason I am going with was long as the warranty is I am hoping by then the new 750's will be out. If so then I hope to be purchasing one. I have already started my 750 bike fund. Then I will do the C5 oil changes    It is a plan, a long term goal.

So what if the 750's never roll out? Well then I have a pretty nice chunk of cash. Regardless I am not losing anything and I will always have my dear sweet darling Olive. I could never part with her.

[BrashRooster]

Going to get a new spark plug soon. The NGK plugs every one talks about (I think standard instead of iridium though.) and was a little confused on which one a 6 or a 7? I am hoping to order a K&N filter the one that replaces stock the begging of next month. Depending on the feed back I get from my silencer post I might try to squeeze one in some how this coming month. 

I love my C5! I am so addicted to it. I look at my Maxim and smile at it because I know soon it will be sold.

[Arizoni]

The NGK #BPR6ES is working fine in my bike.
Even with the new/used Harley muffler in place the plugs tip and insulator says everything is working fine.

[GlennF]

Going to get a new spark plug soon. The NGK plugs every one talks about (I think standard instead of iridium though.) and was a little confused on which one a 6 or a 7?

The consensus seems to be ....
5 ... ONLY if the weather is really really cold and you only ever do short runs to the shop and back
6 ... seems to suit most bikes and conditions
7 ... you live in Nevada or similar hot climate and mainly do long runs at 75 mph through the desert heat

Note: (you will hear this often) Every Enfield is different, start with a 6 but see which plug suits your bike best.

[BrashRooster]

thank you every body for the spark plug tips.

Ok a little bit of a PSA I am bipolar (sure by now those who didn't know guessed so) so I tend to get wound up and ramble on and on. OR I just get freaking out there. So sorry all about that. Thanks for baring with me. Now you know why they try to keep me locked under the stairs 

[BrashRooster]

I picked up a NGK #BPR6ES standard not the Iridium for $2.22 with tax at Napa.   

[BrashRooster]

I changed the stock plug out to the NGK #BPR6ES standard not the Iridium. WOW I never thought one spark plug change could make such a difference.

The pic is of the Bosh plug, the other side was black as hell.

[Arizoni]

IMO, those dual electrode (and the other sparkplugs with even more) look really neat but I've never known them to actually work better than the old fashioned single electrode plugs.

I have a feeling that the little misfires and stutters you've come to accept will be gone and you will enjoy your bike even more than you did.

[bikerboo]

Hey Mr Rooster,thanks for putting on that pic of your plug.Thats what mine looked like.Ended up carrying a clean spare in my jacket so I could just switch them over when my C5 wouldn't start.Got to be pretty quick at it.Since I've put in the NKGBPR6es, bike has been running sweet,no starting problems.I got to hate those dual electrodes!
 Glad you are enjoying your bike,there is nothing like it to put a smile on your face...even when its always raining as it is here in England.Boo

[dynamyt]

Hello every one,
   Ok so I love my C5 military and have been doing just fine! The problem I seem to be having is most likely rider error. I have been going about on two lane and when I go to shift to 5th I get a false neutral. I am not for sure if it is my soft leather shoes (my Onmyodo Tatsu Ne shoes) or just my crap riding skills causing the issues. I noticed when I took more time and paid more attention to what I was doing I seldom couldn't find 5th. The question is why can I hit the other gears but not 5th and does any one have any advice to why I am missing 5th?

  The other issue was when passing I had some hella crazy wobble going on. The only other time I had any wobble was hitting a bad section of road but any bike would have done that.  The bike has stayed very consistent with steering until I had to pass a pick losing gravel from its bed. I think it was about 70 mph (and only long enough to pass ).  I have to say this bike is very smooth and steady not to mention comfortable for me. When I go in for my break in service should I have them check it out? I do not get any kind of wobble at all until I pass 65mph.  I have passed a few cars after that and it seems like if I get above 65mph it gets wobbley.  I don't plan on ever riding above 65 for any period of time other then to pass, no need really because the majority of the time I am on two lane with 55 speed limit so I do 60mph. No wobble at these speeds (unless I don't see a pot hole).

One last thing and its kinda of stupid, would a pin up girl (WWII bomber girl) be tacky on the oval tool box lid?

Mine has been missing 4th quite regularly since day 1. Either on the up-shift or down-shift. I have adjusted the shift lever to get more foot clearance, tried shifting slow, fast, high rev, low rev, and nothing has made any difference. I have 1000 miles on the bike. The clutch seems to be adjusted just fine as there are no issues with any other gear shifts or neutral. I have been riding and racing bikes for 30 years, so I'm beginning to think it's not me  .There's no grinding or gear noise, so I would guess either the internal linkage needs some help or the tranmission needs to be shimmed. I have not looked through the shop manual yet to determine if shimming the tranny would be an issue. If it continues I'm going to see if my dealer will look at it, otherwise I'll tear into it this winter and fix it right. It really sucks dragging the sidehack and missing a gear. The rig drops 10mph pretty fast, and in traffic that is not very safe.
As for the owner's manual, I did not get one and did not know there was one until I found this forum. No spares that supposedly come with it either (as stated in the manual). I had to ask the dealer to get me the manual and I did my first oil change at 460 miles and broke it in as I ride it now. Not fast or hard, but it gets ridden. We went up Rt.17 over the gap yesterday and came back over Rt.125 and it was a blast. It runs like a champ minus the 4th gear fiasco.

[jartist]

Is it shifting down from fifth that's missing or shifting up bad too? I had a bit of a problem shifting from fifth to fourth if I down shifted quickly and the problem was resolved by closing the throttle completely before pulling the clutch and shifting.

[BrashRooster]

Well I am now a 100% positive it was all my fault. I now have as of today 2400 miles on the dot. I had to get used to my C5 for what ever reason it shifted a little different then the other bike. Once I got the hang of if I rarely ever missed a shift. Some times if I get in a little bit of a hurry I will miss 4th to 5th. I have had a hard time getting it into any gear when between shits. No grinding or anything like that just it was like no matter if I went up or down I was hanging between gears.  Ok so last week some one hooked me up with a pair of really nice K Swiss shoes for free. Right on you know! Except guess what? Right those missing shifts are back. No crap I have had to spend the last couple of rides getting a feel for shifting all over again.  I mean it is just like when I was having problems to begin with. Now I know what I need to do to correct it but its crazy how a new pair of shoes is messing me up. 

I will say that taking my time and kinda putting more thought or feel into shifting cleared up my early troubles. I got used to riding my inline 4 performance bikes fast off the line and quick through the gears.  Now I haven't done that with a Royal Enfield but what I am getting at is shifting with the RE is like every thing else with these bikes, they are a little slower and require a little more attention then the Japanese bikes.

[BrashRooster]

slower compared to other cruisers around its size. I personally think its quick enough for me.  Did I mention I love my C5 Military Edition? 2400 miles now I am not doing to shabby on getting some riding time in.  I have even had a couple women go for a ride on it already! 
Don't know if any one else has encountered this but the C5 OD Green gets more then just old guys looking at it. I hadn't expected that!  not complaining time to find another potential exwife.

[dynamyt]

Is it shifting down from fifth that's missing or shifting up bad too? I had a bit of a problem shifting from fifth to fourth if I down shifted quickly and the problem was resolved by closing the throttle completely before pulling the clutch and shifting.

It's both. I've tried all the tricks I can think of, but I'll try to make certain I have the throttle closed tomorrow.

[jartist]

I never had a problem up-shifting.  I don't even pull the clutch in all the way when I go from a lower gear to a higher.  I just preload the shift lever and simultaneously close the throttle and pull the clutch just enough until the shifter pops into gear.

Down shifting is a whole other issue as I find that I have to very deliberately close the throttle, pull the clutch most of the way, shift firmly, and then release the clutch.  It's counter-intuitive especially going uphill and downshifting for more revs as you want to do it quick so as not to loose speed going up the hill.  If I take it slow the torque of the engine more than makes up for the lost speed.  If I rush, it's a missed shift and you have to shift up till you find a gear and then shift back down- often two gears back down to make up for the lost speed during the missed shift.

It sounds annoying but once you figure out what works it will become second nature.  I don't think I've missed a single shift in the last two or three thousand miles and I was cursing my gearbox at one time!

[BrashRooster]

I think they are finicky bikes. I know my bike isn't broken it is just the design wasn't built for me. I have to adapt to the bike.  I still hate the snail cam things. WTF is with that? I think it is a test to see how much I can take before snapping.  I tightened the chain today and was cussing quite a bit. I have no idea why it is so hard for me to adjust the damned chain. 

I replaced the pilot bulbs with led lights because I couldn't get a brand new bulb to last more then 15 miles out where I live.  I was thinking to myself isn't the roads in India far worse? I wonder if they even bother to keep light bulbs in their bikes?

[BrashRooster]

I went to my new gastro doc yesterday.  The doctor seems to be an actual doctor for once which is rare in IL when the doctor accepts medicaid. 

So I ran the bike in this 105-108 degree heat and I got to the town I had to go too a few hours early. I noticed that I am back to shifting just fine after adjusting to the shoes but I also noticed after this last chain tightening (hours before leaving) I no longer have the front end wobble at higher speeds no matter where I place my hands or position my ass on the seat  (or riding up right or slightly leaning forward).  I really don't see what change I have made other then the chain tightening. I haven't really tried to ride any different since I found moving my hands further up the grip and the position of my ass on the seat prevented the wobble.  Yesterday was more out of accident that I discovered I hadn't had the problem. I was so hot that I was holding the grips at the bottom and I was kinda slouching.  Default "it is too hot why am I riding position" and suddenly I had to pick up the pace thanks to a idiot flying down the road in the slow lane. No wobble when getting on it or during shifting at higher speed. I even tested it out a little by passing some cars on two lane that was going under the speed limit to gawk at the short brown corn in the fields.

2500+ miles could it be that the tires have enough wear that it no longer wobbles? Perhaps the rear tire wasn't inline with the front?  Maybe I just got used to the bike? It could be that like shifting I had to adjust to the bike. Idk but as long as I don't experience that ever again or if I start to at least I know I can correct it with a simple re positioning of my rear end on the seat and come up on the grips. 

I love my bike!



 

[Arizoni]

Your chain adjusting probably improved the alignment of the rear wheel with the front wheel.

[barenekd]

+1 on that. Motorcycles don't like having the wheels out of line! Check the alignment carefully when you adjust the chain.
Bare

[motorat]

i was going blind trying to read those little ticks on the adjustment. so i countes off 9 from the elbow and made a mark with my sharpie and did the same on the other side. now it is easier to count to 4 than 13.

[Arizoni]

From what I've learned on the forum and with my own RE I feel pretty safe saying don't be surprised if the notch the pin is sitting in is not the same number of notches from the first notch as the snail on the other side.

When my rear wheel is aligned the pins engaging the two snails always seem to be one notch different.

[Ducati Scotty]

I used my Dremel to carve some permanent marks in the snails every 4 notches or so to make it easier to align.  And yes, some bike's wheels are correctly aligned when the snails are off a notch or two from each other.  Check yours to be sure: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/string_align_motorcycle_wheels/
You may need a partner to hold the bike up, not sure you can string it with the center stand down.


Nice manicure on that tech

Scott

[BrashRooster]

As I have said before that I have to plan ahead for a couple years in advanced if I want to purchase anything expensive. Being on SSI everything is expensive! I have my car and my old bike waiting to be sold (I think that they both will be sold soon). Today my father was asking what I wanted to do with the money and I told him that it was going in one of his safes for me.  Well he wasn't happy with my wanting to buy another bike one that doesn't exist yet.  He told me he wasn't going to cosign another loan for a bike. I was kinda upset but he said that he rather I buy a new car (think low end Nissan Versa). He suggested one of those little Fiat 500 cars, basic car is $15,500.  Hmmm two years no car I can do that no biggie but my health has been declining to the point I won't be riding in the winter soon.


Should I be sad about the turn of events? He knows I will be selling both the car and the bike soon so I guess he wanted me to know now that he had no intention of cosigning again (for a bike).  My pops also kept stressing how happy I was with my C5 so why did I need anything else.  He does have a point there I am a 100% satisfied on the ride. I could see going for a 535 piston kit way down the road but really it is every thing I had been wanting from a bike.  I have two years but his mind is made and there is no convincing him other wise. I guess I could see my self in a Fiat 500 pop versus the Versa. 


I hope that the C5 keeps on keeping on for a very long time as it looks like she will be my last bike for a long time to come.

[Ducati Scotty]

Nissan Versa is kinda lack-luster.  The Fiat is cool.  The Toyota Yaris and Honda Fit are also good driving cars with more room.

Scott

[Ducati Scotty]

Oh, and back on topic, shifting was a bit off and dropping to a false neutral here and there.  I tightened up the clutch cable just a tad and things are back to normal

Scott

[BrashRooster]

I probably should check my clutch cable. It's probably fine but I should check it anyways.  I rather not find out late that it wasn't in proper specs and burn a clutch premature.

[dynamyt]

It's both. I've tried all the tricks I can think of, but I'll try to make certain I have the throttle closed tomorrow.

Yesterday we went for a ride and I made certain to shift slowly and positvely with the throttle closed. Twice when I hit 4th gear, the linkage stopped (jammed) before the gears engaged. Further attempts at those times did not work. I had to down shift, up shift to 5th, then go down to 4th. I'll try more tricks today (double clutching), but it still seems to me that there is a mechanical issue. I'll check the clutch play, etc. today also, but I'm going to have the dealer look at it soon if this keeps up.

[BRADEY]

Dynamyt this is definitely mechanical issue.........try what you may.