[B5er]

Changed the oil/filter in my 2011 B5 for the first time yesterday (at 300 miles) since purchasing it new a few months ago. Some weird observations:

1. The filter housing - as first maintained by RE/dealer - only used one o-ring on the inside back, just behind the filter. There was no gasket under the filter cap, no o-ring on the front side, and no brass washer. No small o-ring was used under the cap spring either.
2. The filter cap with spring is attached to the gold-colored metal plate that goes in front of the filter with some kind of bolt. It's just all one single piece that pulls out after you unscrew the filter cap. Again, no brass washer used.
3. The old oil came out black, and the new oil now appears to have turned black in the oil gage window after a short ride. Not much metal in it, just a weird color. 
4. The UCE kit I bought telephonically from RE with much conversation about whether it would work for the B5's is basically useless except for the filters. Like I said above, I only needed one o-ring.

Anyway, it took about a quart and half to re-fill properly (Motul 15W50). Since the change, it's now running better than it ever has!  I just reassembled the housing the way it had been set up by the factory/dealer before.

I was disappointed in the UCE kit, and a bit confused about how the dealer/factory set up the housing. Taking into account RE hasn't updated its website to include much of anything that is compatible with the B5s, it seems to me like they rolled this model out without having anything prepared for it.  I guess you just have to learn as you go with the new RE stuff?   

[gremlin]

yeah, the B5 doesn't get no respect ....

Changed my oil at 300 and at 600 ~ the magnets were covered in a powdered metal goo.
I also noticed a substantial piece of gasket material stuck to the suction screen (the oil pickup)

Changing oil in one of these things is near impossible ~ even with rocking the bike from side-to-side and up-and-down the most I've ever gotten out is 2 litres ....   

I'll post my oil analysis in a new topic.
 

[Arizoni]

IMO there should be a large O-Ring between the large spring loaded brass disk on the cap and the outer end of the oil filter when you reassemble it.
A similar large O-Ring is needed behind the rear of the filter cartridge to prevent dirty oil from bypassing the filter.

Listed in order of assembly starting at the deepest part of the filter housing there should be:
1 large O-Ring
1 filter cartridge
1 large O-Ring
spring loaded filter cap assembly with 1 large, thin crossection O-Ring installed in packing groove
Retaining bolts.

There is no need for a flat paper gasket where the cap bolts to the side cover because the small O-Ring in the groove is all that is needed to seal the joint.

[GlennF]

IMO there should be a large O-Ring between the large spring loaded brass disk on the cap and the outer end of the oil filter when you reassemble it.
A similar large O-Ring is needed behind the rear of the filter cartridge to prevent dirty oil from bypassing the filter.

Listed in order of assembly starting at the deepest part of the filter housing there should be:
1 large O-Ring
1 filter cartridge
1 large O-Ring
spring loaded filter cap assembly with 1 large, thin crossection O-Ring installed in packing groove
Retaining bolts.

There is no need for a flat paper gasket where the cap bolts to the side cover because the small O-Ring in the groove is all that is needed to seal the joint.

That sounds about right on my B5.  Because the filter retainer is one piece you do not need the tiny O-ring but you do have one O-ring behind the filter and another O-ring on the outside. There is also an O-ring in the pack that replaces the one on the mesh filter in the sump.

From memory the UCE pack has 4 O-rings but you only need 3 of them on a B5.

[ADB]

Is there a recommended oil?
My dealer somehow lost the manual for my C5 military i bought last week.  They're ordering a new one, no charge, but I'm getting dangerously close to the 300 mile mark, so I'm going to have to change the oil before I get the manual.
(i ordered the filters/o-rings kit from Nfield).

[Arizoni]

The book recommends semi-synthetic 15-50 wt API SL oil that meets the requirements of JASO MA.

Just about any motorcycle 4 stroke oil will meet these requirements although finding a 15-50 wt might be difficult.  If you can't find the 15-50 wt, a 20-50 will work just as well now that the spring/summer temperatures are back.

Avoid the automotive High Fuel Mileage and High Mileage oils like the plague.

A good oil made for diesels like Shell Rotella also works well if you can't find a motorcycle specific 4 stroke oil.

Some will say that a full synthetic oil should not be used during the break in period but IMO they will also work fine.
Their lubricity is not much higher than semi-synthetic oils so the piston rings and other moving parts will break in all right.

The semi-synthetic, synthetic and diesel oils are made for higher temperatures that are often present in an air cooled engine.  Some of the regular NON-synthetic petroleum oils might tend to form hard carbon in areas that exceed 400 degrees F and the underside of the piston crown, the top piston ring and the exhaust valve shank can occasionally get that hot.

[Ducati Scotty]

Diesel also has the nifty zinc compunds that are good for tranny gears but not allowed in car oils any more because they'll eventually nullify your catalytic converter.

Scott

[singhg5]

Is there a recommended oil?

RE recommends Motul Semi-synthetic Motorcycle Oil 15W-50, though any good brand motorcycle specific oil of same weight (viscosity) will do.  I agree with Arizoni that if you cannot find the above, then use a 20W-50.

[gremlin]

I found the manual available for download in PDF format at the UK site.

as for oil ~ the book says 15W50
Analysis of the OEM oil came back as 15W40  ( I sent a sample to the lab )
The Shell ROTELLA 15W45 diesel oil is easy to find, and, seems to meet spec.

Jim

Is there a recommended oil?
My dealer somehow lost the manual for my C5 military i bought last week.  They're ordering a new one, no charge, but I'm getting dangerously close to the 300 mile mark, so I'm going to have to change the oil before I get the manual.
(i ordered the filters/o-rings kit from Nfield).

[ADB]

Ok, not to beat a dead horse, but all i could find was either 15w50 full synthetic, or 20w50 semi.
Thoughts on which would be better? Like I said, this will be for my 300-mile service.
Sorry if I'm being a little nit-pickey, but just want to make sure I make the right choice.

[Arizoni]

In my opinion, if both of the choices are motorcycle oils, go for the least expensive.

My reason for saying that is because the next scheduled oil and filter change shown in the Owners Manual is at 2,000 miles and I consider that to be too far down the road for oil in a new, slightly broken in engine.

Although I am sure the oil filter has the capacity to go for the next 1700 miles like the book suggests I feel that it is a good idea to change the oil somewhere around 900 to 1100 miles.

During this next 600-800 miles there are still a lot of small pieces that will end up in the oil and there was some of the old oil from the initial break in period that didn't get emptied out at the 300 mile change.
The filter shouldn't need changing at this suggested oil change but to be on the safe side I changed it too while I was at it.

[barenekd]

I use Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 full synthetic in mine since it's specifically designed for air cooled engines, even if they are Hardleys.
I've had good luck with it, oil consumption is quite low, and it's available for $10.00/qt at Autozone.
Bare

[ADB]

Thanks for the tips...I think i'll probably go with the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 full synthetic Bare suggested because it seems the most readily available and decently priced.
I'm also going to change out the plug to the one everyone suggests and finally get around to going through to make sure i dont have any loose bolts.
I'm curious to see if there will be a noticable difference from just doing those few things...
Thanks again guys.

[jartist]

I've been happy with the Mobil 1 v-twin oil as well. I used Motul semi-synth for a while back and it foamed up something fierce.

[Arizoni]

I'm also using Mobil-1 V-Twin 20-50.
Although some don't trust the Amsoil tests I've linked several places it shows the Mobil-1 V-Twin as being almost equal in some tests and beating Amsoil in other tests with the Amsoil motorcycle oils and as was mentioned it is available at most Auto Supply stores if you ever need it while on a trip or just wanting to change your oil at home.

So far with 5400 miles on my G5 it doesn't burn or loose any oil at all.