[meilaushi]

I got my new Bullet last Sunday and all worked fine...  Was out on the road Monday and when I got in I discovered the headlight was out.  Looking closely it was clear the filaments were burned/broken--the one side didn't connect with the other.  I called Matt at L & L and he fired a headlight off to me immediately via post, and told me the screw to undo to change the sealed beam 5 3/4" OEM bulb was the one on the bottom, not the top of the light.  I noticed that neither the owner's manual nor the Super Shop manual said a thing about how to change that bulb.  Anyway, armed with a flat blade and a phillips head screwdriver, I went at it... And, for the benefit of newbies to this job, I ran up a little "How To" just to remind myself next time what has to be done.  The reason?  From the outside, the 'works' of getting at the headlight seems a mystery.  On the left and bottom of the front of the ring around the light are holes leading to the aiming screws (required by our Dear Old DOT--which is why RE has to put 5 3/4" bulbs in what were meant to be 7" headlight casquettes).  The operative 'get at the innerds' screw is the one on the bottom UNDER the light--in my case a standard metal screw undoable with a flat-bladed screwdriver.  Anyway, here's the gen on how to replace an OEM bulb:
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OEM 5 3/4" headlight Bulb Change
1. Unscrew the screw at the bottom of the outer cover ring (NOT the screw on the top of the light!) and remove it.
2. Pry the bottom of the outer cover ring forward away from the rest of the chrome surrounding with a flat bladed screwdriver until the ring can be pulled out from the bottom and released from the retaining nubs inside the top that hold the top of the ring in place.  You will then see the inner chrome retaining ring that actually holds the bulb in place.  It is fastened with 3 phillips head screws (there are other screws there that aim the light.  Don't mess with them).
3. Loosen (but do not remove) the 3 phillips head screws in the bulb retaining ring enough to be able to turn the ring easily.
4. Turn the whole bulb retaining ring counter-clockwise so the holes at the ends of the screw slots come under the screw heads so the ring can be removed from under the 3 retaining screws you just loosened.  Remove the ring and keep hold of the bulb so it doesn't bang against anything by falling out of the focussing ring.
5. Remove the burned out bulb, and pull off the wire clips, REMEMBERING ON WHICH TAB OF THE BULB EACH GOES so you can put them on the same tabs on the new bulb--If you put 'em on wrong, your high and lo beams will either be screwed up or won't work.
6. Slide the appropriate bayonet clips you removed from the old bulb onto the correct tabs on the new bulb, and place the new bulb in the focusing ring with the square glass tab in the slot for it--this is the tab that orients the bulb so the focusing lens is properly positioned.
7. Return the 3 screw-slot-hole bulb retaining ring over the retaining ring screw heads and turn it clockwise so their heads again hold the slots in the retaining ring.
8. Tighten the 3 retaining ring screws.
9. Replace the outer cover ring making sure the hole at the bottom lines up with the hole in the inner ring and that the top is behind the retaining nubs on the inner chrome ring.
10. Press the outer retaining ring in so that the holes line up and replace the screw in the bottom, tightening it securely.
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**Note: if you want your light switch to work so you can turn off your headlight and pilot lights, you can remove the jumper between the green and the orange pin plugs in the wiring stew in the headlight casquette, and then plug the orange male plug directly into the green female plug. The jumper removes the light switch from the circuit. After removal of the jumpter, your light switch on the right handgrip will now work.
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Stamped on the back of my bulbs is the information:

Wagner
12.8v
4467
DOTMN02
50/35W
M2
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Hope this helps anyone who finds themselves in the same lightless pickle.  Incidentally the best place to find the OEM bulbs is, of course, Classic Motor Works, or your local RE Dealer.  Finding 'em elsewhere is almost a practical impossibility!