[spyker]

Bougth the kit quite a while back from our hosts when on sale.  Original silencer's developed a crack at the bend near the joint with the exhaust pipe.  I printed out the Bulleteer's thread from 9/09 as guide, read a couple other posts. 

Got the old exhaust system off no problem.  Went to fit the exhaust & can't get bits to line up.  Close but not quite. If I get the pipe in the head the brackets are off,  I mount the rear bracket the front bracket & pipe are off &/or the brake pedal's in the way.  This typical.  From what I've read holes might be off slightly, this is more like needing a rubber mallet or a prise bar to get them on.  Probably to get them off again. Want to avoid that.  suggestions

[Ice]

You had it right with prise bar and rubber mallet.
Fitting and fettering is normal and expected with our older Bullets.

[spyker]

Thanks, off tomorrrow & will have at it

[ace.cafe]

Adjust your brackets by bending, until you have as perfect fit into the cylinder head as possible.
Work everything else back from there.

[spyker]

I've got it such that I can get the brackets over the fittings, been having at it with the mallet.  I'm in a 1/4 inch or so & when I pull it out it looks like ts digging into the head with tiny bits scraped off. Pipe slightly bigger than port?  Next step making port larger, pipe smaller?   
its really nice out so I'm going out & just keep banging away

[spyker]

Figured that one out, just keep tapping & turning the pipe.
A question foe Ace: now the front bracket hole is above its mount.  About 2mm show thru the hole.  I would need to bend the bracket down a good 3/8th inch.  Is this doable?
Then there's the mount behind the transmission. If I bolt just that, the pipe sticks out so far it presses agaist the arm of the brake pedal.  When the exhaust is in with the hole for the front bracket lined up as above the rear bracket is 3/4 inch in front of its mounting spot & is pressing agaist the frame. Its 1 & 1/2" long.

I'm not sure the brackets could withstand all this bending. 
Open to suggestions but things are so far off it really looks like this pipe wasn't welded up right.
 FYI its a '03, 500 es

[walken4life]

When I fitted my 1950's style exhaust I ended up actually having to make little extenders for the exhaust brackets otherwise I could not get it to line up properly.  When I would have the header pipe fitted fully into the head, none of the exhaust brackets would not align with their mounting holes on the frame.  When I would line them up, the header pipe ended up so it was barely in the head.  I decided to measure how far off the brackets were from the mounting holes on the frame and go from there.  Had to make the extenders for the bracket right under the gearbox and also the one attached to the muffler under the toolbox.

Basically just used bits of 1/8" thick metal with a hole drilled through each end.  I then hit them with high temp primer and let them dry before installing.  Make sure to use lock washers on any extra nuts and bolts you add for this method.

[The Garbone]

On my 95 I did the front bracket last.  Used a separate piece of metal attached to the front engine mounting bolt and after everything was lined up I drilled a hole in both and bolted the front bracket together (cut the eye off the welded on front bracket).   


Here is a picture.

[ace.cafe]

I have been able to bend/move the front bracket quite a large amount with a pair of channel-lock pliers and a rag protecting the chrome on the bracket. I think you can do it.
The brake pedal can be moved on its splined shaft if it's in the way.

The general rule is that the fit gets less critical as you get toward the rear of the bike.
The fit into the head must be free of exhaust leaks, absolutely.

[spyker]

So this is typical.  Just have at it 'til it fits
thanks

[jedaks]

I have been able to bend/move the front bracket quite a large amount with a pair of channel-lock pliers and a rag protecting the chrome on the bracket. I think you can do it.
The brake pedal can be moved on its splined shaft if it's in the way.

The general rule is that the fit gets less critical as you get toward the rear of the bike.
The fit into the head must be free of exhaust leaks, absolutely.

What are the signs and symptoms of the the head pipe leaking?

[ace.cafe]

If there is any black soot visible on the outside of the header pipe near the head joint, then it has an exhaust leak.

[spyker]

  Well yesterday was  the first day of I've been able to ge back to this. Unfortunately it was raining most of the day as Iusually wheel it out in to the driveway to work on it. So in an 8'X8' shed  Bullet & my 6'5' self got to work.  Got rear mount bent & out of the way, foot peg off & loosened brake pedal.  Couldn't quite contort myself to get under the bike to see how to finagle the the brake arm out of the way. 
  As regards the spiined shaft, if I move it toward the center of the shaft will it then swing down & out of the way.   
  I'm hoping to have half of Wednesday & Friday off & all of Thursday & Saturday off to back to this.  Also found a metal shop literally walking distance from home as at least the rear mount is going to need a bracket to fit.

[spyker]

Just an update.  I  went with Garbone's method.  Had a local welding shop cut out 2 pieces of steel I'd mocked up on file cards.   Spent the day drilling & bending. Left it a dry fit.  Next, paint & seal it up.

[spyker]

Well its painted & sealed.  Thru the battery back in & fired it up & boy its got a nice sound.  Took off the air cleaner & all the plumbing & put the duck bill in.  Drizzling on & off til late this afternoon so that was as far as I got today.  Tomorrow into the carb. 

So I might as well ask...  I've had it since new so it should have the standad jetting.  I'm at sea level, the kit came with 115, 120 & a 125 main jet & a 30 needle jet.  Thoughts on a starting point?