Author Topic: 19T C5 Kickstart  (Read 3288 times)

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Hobbydad

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on: May 11, 2012, 01:57:16 am
Here you go, my '11 C5 Kickstart, with a 19T sprocket. It fit fine, looks like the kickstart shaft was machined for it. I haven't had a chance to get it out on the road yet, finished up late today. I'll let you know how it feels once I do.

BTW, probably a dumb question, but do all chains have o-rings, or just "o-ring" chains. Mine has o-rings, just wondering.




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Ice

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Reply #1 on: May 11, 2012, 02:05:32 am
Plain chain is plain and has no o rings or x rings like sealed chains.

BTW fantastic pics.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #2 on: May 11, 2012, 02:07:06 am
Not all chains have o-rings.

Glad that the sprocket fits on.
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Hobbydad

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Reply #3 on: May 11, 2012, 02:18:21 am
Plain chain is plain and has no o rings or x rings like sealed chains.

BTW fantastic pics.

Cool, then I have a o-ring chain already. I was thinking about upgrading it at some point, but I was worried that the o-ring chains where bigger than the stock chain. Guess I have noting to worry about. And the pics, i-Phone's are awesome. I can't remember the last time I used one of my real cameras.
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FiRE Comms

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Reply #4 on: May 11, 2012, 02:31:56 am
Well that puts that one to rest!  Thanks Hobbydad!
Chris


Ice

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Reply #5 on: May 11, 2012, 02:46:32 am
thinking about upgrading it at some point, but I was worried that the o-ring chains where bigger than the stock chain.
Not any bigger but they are wider

Guess I have noting to worry about.
Unless you have an Iron Barrel.

 There were variations in the the castings used to make the transmission cases and inner primary chain cases. A sealed chain may or may not fit and if you get luck and brand X does fit, there is no promise that brands Y or Z will.

 Did I mention how lucky you UCE guys are  ;)
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SimonT

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Reply #6 on: May 11, 2012, 03:22:57 am
Nice one... this is on my to do list :)


Hobbydad

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Reply #7 on: May 11, 2012, 03:58:34 am
My only piece of advice to anyone doing this swap; plan ahead on how your going to get that nut off there. I shopped for sockets, and asked around to borrow one, no luck. I ended up borrowing a 2" cresent wrench from work to do the job. I turned it a few times to get a good compressed cylinder, and broke it loose with a bit of force. The rest of the job is very straight forward with normal hand tools.
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singhg5

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Reply #8 on: May 11, 2012, 04:20:26 am
Here you go, my '11 C5 Kickstart, with a 19T sprocket.

It fit fine, looks like the kickstart shaft was machined for it. I haven't had a chance to get it out on the road yet, finished up late today. I'll let you know how it feels once I do.

You will like better pick up with 19T sprocket. Interesting to see that the kickstart shaft was machined to a smaller diameter right below the chain.

How much chain slack would make the chain touch the shaft ? May want to keep an eye on that.
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Hobbydad

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Reply #9 on: May 11, 2012, 07:44:44 am
I have the slack at 1-1/2" with the bike on the center stand. I was setting it at 2" and psyched myself out, I was worried it would hit. I think it's only one click tighter on the snail adjusters, hopefully it's ok there. If not I can loosen it up to 2", I'm sure it would still be fine at 2". I'll pull the cover at my next oil change and check the shaft for wear.
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Hobbydad

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Reply #10 on: May 11, 2012, 09:31:53 pm
Last night, after reading a few posts, I decided to double check my rear wheel alignment and rear brake settings. I had originally just set both snail adjusters to the same point, and figured that would be aligned, and did nothing with the back brake.

Upon inspection it just didn't look right, so I busted everything loose and have been working on it pretty much all afternoon. I've come to the conclusion that the wheel is straight, it's just closer to the right than the left. Does this sound right, it doesn't to me, but I cannot see anything out of place, and I'm sure I didn't miss anything. I didn't disassemble anything when I adjusted the chain yesterday, so no missing parts.

I measured from the center of the swing arm bolt to the center of the axle, and they're the same on both sides. The right side (chain) snail adjuster is at 16, and the left side is at 13. I tried using string & a ruler, but either the center stand or front fender keep me for getting a good reading. Anyone have any suggestions or pointers, or is the wheel actually just closer to the drive side? Any other way to check it?
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singhg5

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Reply #11 on: May 11, 2012, 09:44:44 pm
I measured from the center of the swing arm bolt to the center of the axle, and they're the same on both sides. The right side (chain) snail adjuster is at 16, and the left side is at 13.

I tried using string & a ruler, but either the center stand or front fender keep me for getting a good reading. Anyone have any suggestions or pointers, or is the wheel actually just closer to the drive side? Any other way to check it?

Your setting is perfect - RE style - 13 and 16  ;)!  No, I am not joking.  The snails on either side do not match for most of the bikes. I will be more concerned if both snails were on the same notch and check it a couple of times that it was right.

You are also right about difficulty using the string - because center stand is in the way. Do the best approximation with it. That should be good enough.

I think RE is a very approximate machine and works well in approximation. If it feels right, and bike rides straight without going to one side, and front wheel looks aligned with rear wheel, there is a good chance everything is fine.

PS - You can avoid the front fender by keeping string pretty low - though it does compromise on the accuracy.  Quite some time back, there was another post with suggestions on how to overcome or minimize some of these problems, if I find it I will post the link.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2012, 09:55:22 pm by singhg5 »
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Hobbydad

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Reply #12 on: May 11, 2012, 09:56:13 pm
Thanks for the info! I did try a few different heights with the strings, too low and I hit the center stand, too high and I hit the fender, lol. I gave up on that. If it seems too out of wack I'll have my dealer check it out, he wants to test ride it with the new pipe & sprocket anyway.  :)
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Arizoni

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Reply #13 on: May 11, 2012, 10:28:11 pm
Your probably close enough for "Government Work". :)

I use a 6 foot long aluminum tent pole to align the wheels.

Although the center stand is in the way if the pole is very high above the ground I can get the pole pressed against the side of the rear tire with the tip of the pole resting on the ground adjacent to the front wheel.
When the pole clears the front wheel on both sides of the bike I figure the rear wheel must be aligned as well as it's going to be.

Yes, the snails are never in the same notch when I get the rear wheel lined up.
Jim
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Ice

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Reply #14 on: May 11, 2012, 10:28:46 pm
On the subject of chain adjustment and wheel alignment

 Here's an inexpensive D.I.Y. laser wheel alignment thingy.
http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/wheelalignment.html

 http://s478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/meckanicall/?action=view&current=P1030880A.jpg

http://s478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/meckanicall/?action=view&current=P1030875A.jpg

My laser thingy follows the pattern but is not finished as nicely. Hey for 18 bucks who cares what it looks like,

 After alignment I used a pointed center punch to mark both of the snail cams right next to the dowel pins to set an index/ reference to true point for adjustments on the road.  

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