Author Topic: Kickstarting the UCE 500  (Read 12162 times)

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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #15 on: April 28, 2012, 01:51:07 pm
My C5 never kicks back either.  Of course, it's IS a 2010  ;D


barenekd

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Reply #16 on: April 28, 2012, 07:31:56 pm
My G5 has never kicked back.
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Okie Enfield

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Reply #17 on: April 28, 2012, 09:17:47 pm
My C5 never kicks back either.  Of course, it's IS a 2010  ;D
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clubman

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Reply #18 on: April 30, 2012, 06:55:47 pm
I too assumed the decomp valve would mean you could dispose of any previously necessary ritual and just kick it over but a few such attempts got nowhere so I reverted to the ritual I used in the 80s on my MZ 250 two stroke single. That is, with ignition off, free the clutch and then find TDC and give one kick. The find TDC again, turn ignition on and kick again. Wait until the kickstart is fully depressed and slightly open the throttle. I find that as long as the air temperature is 5 or more it works every time. It generally works OK with choke above zero. However on really cold days it is a pig to kick start. I've decided to use the kickstart more or less routinely in the summer months at least since I'm well out of warranty and don't wish to have to pay for a sprag clutch. (I've got the new version after two warranty claims but when it's so easy to kick start why not?) I'm not saying the above routine is the best, let alone only, way to do it. I'm only using this method cos it worked way back when, (and it was pretty much the ONLY way with the MZ), but it works well for me.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #19 on: April 30, 2012, 06:58:29 pm
If I had a kcikstart I'd use it all the time, just for the cool factor ;)


wokka

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Reply #20 on: April 30, 2012, 07:17:57 pm
My C5 never kicks back either.  Of course, it's IS a 2010  ;D

OK, now I'm confused. Am I the only one that's had a kickback? Could it have anything to do with being Indian market spec?

It's only ever happened 3 times


jartist

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Reply #21 on: April 30, 2012, 08:45:45 pm
I've experienced a few kickbacks and even one that threw a crank position code.  I was doing it wrong though and kicking slowly until I met compression and then giving it all I could. Even bent the kickstart lever. After reading this post and following the directions she starts first kick every time without the stress on me or the engine gear.


The_Rigger

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Reply #22 on: May 12, 2012, 02:35:01 am
It's my first day with Fiona, and I've already mastered the just-past-TDC-kick method... I can even 'Fonz' her into starting (e.g. kickstart her while sitting astride her), as long as she's still warm. (amazing how fast the UCE engine cools off when you shut her down, though...)

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JVS

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Reply #23 on: May 12, 2012, 05:09:32 am
I've noticed taht 99.9% of the times it starts with the first kick.

But one peculiar thing that happens sometimes is that as soon as I commence the kick, a 'click' type thing happens, the lever goes down a tad and then I feel the resistance. Anyone else noticed this?

It's hard to explain but it sounds/feels like the kick lever broke but still works. It's like a small click, the lever goes down about 3/4 inch when that click happens and then I feel the normal resistance of the lever.

O_O
« Last Edit: May 12, 2012, 05:19:05 am by JVS »
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Arizoni

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Reply #24 on: May 12, 2012, 06:10:13 am
The kickstarter on the UCE bikes uses a ratchet and pawl design to transmit the force of the kickstart lever to the transmission.

If the pawl has to move a bit before it can engage the next ratchet tooth the kickstart lever will move down.

Don't worry about it.  Just use it and have fun. :)
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JVS

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Reply #25 on: May 12, 2012, 09:49:35 am
Oh, I see!

Gives a lot of relief knowing that. Thanks for clearing that up, Arizoni.

This forum is awesome lol
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BRADEY

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Reply #26 on: April 30, 2013, 05:49:08 am
From all my experience with the Royal Enfield and the art of kick starting it,
I have known that no matter how elaborate a write up you may do on this subject
it would help yourself and perhaps few others.
Because each RE has its own personality and quirks. What may be correct for
yours, may not be good for the second bike.

Hence to each his own !


Singh_Chicago

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Reply #27 on: April 30, 2013, 03:34:31 pm
I usually kick twice before turning the ignition key - to clear off left over exhaust- and then it always starts on first kick.  ;D


boggy

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Reply #28 on: April 30, 2013, 04:51:42 pm
My AVL's e-start doesn't work unless the battery is tip-top charged so I kick 100% of the time.  Sucks the few times I've stalled out (not flipping fuel to reserve fast enough usually).  I've tried kicking on the fly, sans-centerstand but I've always had to pull over. It's a p.i.t.a. when you are city-commuting.

The kick back (where the lever shoots up suddenly) happened when I was first figuring things out and is definitely due to NOT kicking that lever ALL they way through.  Try it... try not full kicking, but wear some shin guards or strap yourself down because it has FORCE.

Good summary steps for kicking.
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AgentX

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Reply #29 on: May 01, 2013, 02:43:34 am
From all my experience with the Royal Enfield and the art of kick starting it,
I have known that no matter how elaborate a write up you may do on this subject
it would help yourself and perhaps few others.
Because each RE has its own personality and quirks. What may be correct for
yours, may not be good for the second bike.

Hence to each his own !

I dunno, the old ones are quirky.  Every UCE I've ridden/seen, just kick the starter once and the bike starts running.  If that doesn't work, repeat once more.  Not much mystery to it.

I was confused when I got my first bike (UCE) because I thought there was going to be some ritual to do, but there wasn't.  Now that I own a '77, it's another story.