Author Topic: Kickstarting the UCE 500  (Read 12184 times)

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Arizoni

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on: April 27, 2012, 02:12:31 am
Yah, I know.  This has been covered before but I'm seeing new faces joining the ranks of Royal Enfield so I thought I'd mention my experiences with kickstarting my G5.

The first time I went to kickstart my G5 I figured that with the automatic decompression device in there all I had to do was just stomp down on the lever.  Right?

Of course there were other people watching and that always puts the Whammy on doing anything fun but anyway, with the bike on the center stand and me straddling it I flipped the lever out with my right foot, turned on the key and let the computer boot and I was ready.  
I put my foot on the lever until it moved and then made a slight jump up coming down with all my weight on the lever.

The results?  The lever might have moved an inch before it stopped dead still.
Darn near damaged some of my valuable tissue.  :(

No one laughed but I know there were a bunch of muffled chuckles.

With time (and the secrecy of my back yard)  I figured out what the trouble was.

The automatic compression release doesn't release the pressure very fast.  Not fast at all!

Knowing this, I found that when pushing down on the kickstarter using a moderate amount of pressure it moves pretty easily until the piston starts to come up on compression.  Then it slows down to almost a stop.
At this stage, if I continue to push down with a moderate force, the lever will slowly descend as the compression leaks out thru the exhaust valve while the piston rises to the top of the cylinder.

As it does this, suddenly the lever will start to move very easily.  THAT IS THE TIME TO STOP PUSHING.

Inside the engine the piston has just passed top dead center (TDC) and you want it to stay there while you reset the kick lever for a full stroke.

The guys on the older Royal Enfields (or Triumphs, BSA's, Matchless etc.) have an ammeter to tell them when this point is reached but we on the UCE's have to feel for this piston position.

Resetting the kick lever with the piston at, or near TDC will give the crankshaft flywheels a full down stroke, upstroke and another down stroke worth of rotation to get up some speed (momentum) when you finally do kick the lever down with force.
That 540 degrees of rotation will give the flywheels a lot of energy.

In fact, with the piston starting at this location you really don't have to use a whole lot of force to get the flywheels going fast enough so that their energy will do most of the work of compressing the fuel/air mixture on the compression stroke to get the engine to fire.

Anyway, with the piston at TDC, give a firm downward kick and DO NOT ROTATE THE THROTTLE.

Usually the engine will start idling on the first kick.

Summarizing this:
1. Turn on the key and let the computer boot and the fuel pump come up to pressure.

2. Push the kick starter down slowly feeling for the compression and keep pushing down slowly until it suddenly gets much easier, then stop.

3. Reset the kick starter lever for a full stroke.

4. Give the kick starter lever a good solid downward thrust clear to the bottom of its travel.  THUMP. THUMP. THUMP....

5. Smile big at the crowd and enjoy the ride.  :)
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


Hobbydad

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Reply #1 on: April 27, 2012, 02:28:44 am
Excellent write up. I use the kicker everytime, just like my old dirt bikes. People love it when they see a bike like this kick started, not too common a sight these days. Sure puts a grin on my face.
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Desi Bike

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Reply #2 on: April 27, 2012, 02:51:45 am
My routine is very similar.

get geared up

get on bike on centre stand...my preferred parking method.

turn on key.

push bike forward of stand while system boots.

flip out kicker

kick it over

thumpa thumpa thumpa

flip kicker back closed with an aire of style with my foot.

turn on lights and go when safe to do so.. winking at the ladies as I ride off.

(of course it seems like there are a disproportionate number of elderly men that seem to take a shine to the bike. As is the usual, I withhold the wink lest they get the wrong idea. Heck, some days I'd prefer even an octogenarian cougar to put on my starting routine/show for.)

میں نہیں چاہتا کہ ایک اچار
میں صرف اپنی موٹر سائیکل پر سوار کرنا چاہتے ہیں


GlennF

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Reply #3 on: April 27, 2012, 03:41:40 am
Generally I find my B5 starts first time when parked on the center stand. The exceptions are if you are stalled at the lights with an irate truckie behind you or if a big bunch of cute girls are watching you smiling and giggling.   I have decided the reason for this is my B5 suffers from performance anxiety.

Kick starting astride the bike is another matter altogether, as being shorter I have trouble getting the solid full kick when sitting on the bike.

The other comments I wouldmake:

-  unless its snowing outside, the UCE engines need minimal throttle or enrichment (choke) and in many cases you are best just switching it on and kicking without touching throttle or chock at all.
- if it doesn't start first go, I find the best procedure is to switch off, kick through to TDC again and then switch ignition on again. this re-primes the engine without flooding.



BrashRooster

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Reply #4 on: April 27, 2012, 04:01:39 am
I myself had a crash course early on in the art of kicking a RE 500 UCE. I had a 1974 CB 550 4 that would start 1/4 way through the kick some times less. Not so much on a uce 500 but hey now I can really punt a ball!  Kicking a bike to life does make me feel old school macho.
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AgentX

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Reply #5 on: April 27, 2012, 07:30:12 am
Hm.  The UCE 350 is about the same...you'll feel some compression, then it'll go free. 

But you don't have to ease through any compression with the smaller engine.  You can just whale down on it when you feel it tighten up.

And in practical use, you can simply stomp on it with the piston in any position and it'll generally get going first or second kick.


tooseevee

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Reply #6 on: April 27, 2012, 02:22:49 pm
- if it doesn't start first go, I find the best procedure is to switch off, kick through to TDC again and then switch ignition on again. this re-primes the engine without flooding.

              How does it "reprime" anything?

               You're not squirting any fuel into the intake like with a carb with an accelerator pump. Isn't there only fuel when these UCE engines are Running? 
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MegaMoo

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Reply #7 on: April 27, 2012, 04:35:40 pm
Nice one Jim. I've been wondering why sometimes it kicks like a dream and other times I almost end up in hospital with a dislocated knee when it suddenly stops! Will give it a go later on with the press-down-until-it's-easy technique. Hopefully I'll get more appreciative smiles and less laughter at my expense from the girls on the sidelines now...


barenekd

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Reply #8 on: April 27, 2012, 06:02:10 pm
Quote
  How does it "reprime" anything?

               You're not squirting any fuel into the intake like with a carb with an accelerator pump. Isn't there only fuel when these UCE engines are Running?

Mine primes every time I shove the kick starter down. I have to be careful not ot have to kick it too many times are it will be flooded.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #9 on: April 27, 2012, 06:06:58 pm
I'm guessing the EFI fires a pulse for every revolution (or actually every other revoultion on a four stroke), regardless of RPM, so it probably fires even at low kickstart RPMs.  Once you fire a pulse or two the fuel pressure in the line drops and the pump turns on to bring the pressure back up, as it should.

Scott


Arizoni

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Reply #10 on: April 27, 2012, 06:49:37 pm
On the EFI bikes when you are kicking it thru the intake stroke right after the piston reaches TDC (with the key on) you will hear the fuel pump make a little 'whurr' sound as the injector squirts some fuel thru the injector.

If you think the engine has become flooded, turning the key off, opening the throttle fully and running the kick starter thru several full cycles would probably clear it out.
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


wokka

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Reply #11 on: April 27, 2012, 07:17:45 pm
Hmm, strange.
I've never had my C5 "lock" on a kickstart, I have had a few black fingernails from it kicking back though. I removed the starter motor a few months back and machined up a blanking plate. So she's always kickstarted
Out here in the desert, I've found that I can kick her into life first time, every time if I find TDC and use full choke with no throttle


tooseevee

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Reply #12 on: April 28, 2012, 12:40:19 am
On the EFI bikes when you are kicking it thru the intake stroke right after the piston reaches TDC (with the key on) you will hear the fuel pump make a little 'whurr' sound as the injector squirts some fuel thru the injector.

         Ah! I did not realize that. I haven't worked on ANYthing with fuel injection since the CG boats ('56 to '67, Cummins & GM).

             
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shamelin

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Reply #13 on: April 28, 2012, 05:50:14 am
Great summary.  I've had my B5 for about 6 months and had to learn the kickstart on my own.  It was a frustrating week full of tired legs and a few bruises on the shin. 

A few additions, if I may:

1) Make sure you are in NEUTRAL before kicking.  If not, your bike will push forward.

2) No clutch!  If you hold the clutch down while kicking, you'll never find TDC nor will it ever start.

My bike likes the choke, so I use it every time the engine's cold.  Once I figured out the kickstart method, the bike was starting on just about every first kick.


BRADEY

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Reply #14 on: April 28, 2012, 06:50:14 am
I am sharing this "just for the kicks"  ;D
however my C5 never kicked back, wondering if everything is alright with mine  ???
but if you do not know the right technique the old iron barrel could rocket you 10 feet off the ground or give you a severely bruised knee  :D