[Phlakaton]

So I've learned there are no stupid questions when it comes to these bikes so ...

My bike has been running a little rough lately.  When moving up through the gears the handlebars want to shake a touch more than usual.  I also noticed that I have a fair amount of exaust coming from the front of the cylinder head... something I just never noticed before and am not sure if that was the case from day 1 or not.  It seems like the spot where the exaust pipe comes out of the head that it leaks out.  Is it normal for this?  Is the pipe lose somehow?  I can physically move the pipe ever so slightly where its connected to the cylinder head too.  Is this causing vibration in my bars and is it a bad thing I need to remedy?

Also - where does that smaller metal line on top of the exaust pipe go and what does it do - the one under the tank.

Thank you so much guys!

Eric

[Lwt Big Cheese]

Have a search around on here.

There was a thread yesterday (?) about using a bead of silicon to prevent the exhaust blowing.

[tooseevee]

So I've learned there are no stupid questions when it comes to these bikes so ...

My bike has been running a little rough lately.  When moving up through the gears the handlebars want to shake a touch more than usual.  I also noticed that I have a fair amount of exaust coming from the front of the cylinder head... something I just never noticed before and am not sure if that was the case from day 1 or not.  It seems like the spot where the exaust pipe comes out of the head that it leaks out.  Is it normal for this?  Is the pipe lose somehow?  I can physically move the pipe ever so slightly where its connected to the cylinder head too.  Is this causing vibration in my bars and is it a bad thing I need to remedy?

Also - where does that smaller metal line on top of the exaust pipe go and what does it do - the one under the tank.

Thank you so much guys!

Eric

               No, it's not normal.  Why don't you try tightening the nuts that hold the header pipe to the head?

                 The small metal line is part of the air pulse system; all to do with the mandated emissions control systems that the bike is loaded down with. It supposedly helps to burn off more of the unburned gasses that get out of the combustion chamber.

                  Many of us have done away with a lot of this stuff.

[Blltrdr]

Lot's of info on your question. Here is a link to a discussion in 2009.

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,4069.0.html

[The Garbone]

Iron Barrels don't have a flange and bolt setup.   A pipe expander is what helps IMO..

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,10856.msg126535.html#msg126535

[GreenMachine]

I brought some exhaust paste and a exhaust ring from our host and haven't had a problem yet..You may want to take it apart carefully, clean it up and reattach with the paste I mentioned or whatever you can get your hands that will hold up to the exhaust temps...Not a big job and any competent mechanic should be able to perform this task for a resonable amount of money...On the vibration note, not sure if that's the culprit but get one thing done first before investigating the next...

[ace.cafe]

If you have an exhaust leak at the head, you can burn a valve, and also the bike won't ever be tuned quite right. It will idle erratically, and show lean symptoms.

The small line coming off the exhaust pipe is an emission control device called the PAV(pulsed air valve).
It goes to the rest of the PAV  system located inside the left side tool box.

[Phlakaton]

I looked through all the previous posts I could find.  Thank you so much for the links - so what would be the best approach from your view then?  I can do a pipe expander for this - run down to harbor freight at lunch... then should I use some exhaust paste too?  Was that mention on silicon caulk I read a good move?  Simple bathroom clear silicon?  I dont have exhaust assembly paste on hand so where might be a good place to get some?  Local auto store?  I'm getting these things into my head and feeling better about working on it this weekend.

Thank you again everyone!

Eric

[The Garbone]

I run the pipe expander only.  Takes a few tries to get it to fit perfect as you do not want to over expand it.   Once it is setup you should not have leaks or need for sealer unless you have a less than smooth casting on the exhaust port of the head.  You might need sealent if that is the case.   On my stock head I had 1 or 2 minute fingers of soot on the pipe that hinted at a small leak.   After I sent it away and Ace did his magic the seal appears to be perfect all the way around. 

 I would remove all the PAV bodge and throw it in the local dumpster.  Cap the hole in the head pipe and the intake manifold and ride on.  

[barenekd]

As for the vibration, check all your motor mount bolts, including the head steady tube. If these are loose or broken, it could have caused your exhaust pipe difficulties.
Bare

[GreenMachine]

I didn't use the pipe expander as it was fairly tight anyway...I just had to small bead of exhaust paste around the joint, pushed it in a wee bit, smooth it out with my finger and let it setup overnight..The exhaust clamp was cosmetic but looks good...Bathroom silicone, Nah I don;t think that's the ticket ..Anyway the fellows have you steered in the right direction..Don't make the pipe opening  too big with the expander tool  as I don't think they make a reducer  ..

[RBHoge]

I got rid of the PAV gizmo as soon as I learned what it was . CMW sells a cap to close the hole left in the exhaust header  ,  but I went to the "Classic 50's Style" short silencer and didn't need it  . As to the PAV valve itself just unbolt it from inside the left side tool box when you pull the metal pipe out of the intake manifold you will need to plug the hole  . I used a small bolt from one of my Radio Controlled airplane junk boxes.  I tapped the hole in the manifold and ran the little bolt in with a generous gob of thread locker. It sealed it all up nicely. 
REgards,
Robert

[Arizoni]

The RTV Silicone pastes are not designed to take the high temperatures that exist at the exhaust port.

The exhaust sealing materials that are available at local auto supply stores is a ceramic paste specifically made for sealing hot areas like this.

As the others have noted, if you use an exhaust pipe expander, go slowly and expand the pipe only a very small amount and then try the fit.
If it is too loose you can always expand the pipe a little more but if you overdo it and expand it so it is too large you will find yourself in big trouble.

I agree with barenekd that you need to check all of the engine mount bolts to make sure they are tight.
The 'head steady' that runs from the rear of the cylinder head to the frame will sometimes be loose or will break. If either of these things occur severe vibration will be noted in the entire motorcycle.

[Ice]

Big rubber hammer.  Seriously.

 They are inexpensive and more suitable for this task than the rawhide mallets of yesteryear.

 Give several whacks to push the pipe into the head as far as it will go. I know it is described and believe it is illustrated in the shops manuals.

 There are no more exhaust leaks on mine or my oldest sons Bullets since we decided to follow the books instruction.

The exhaust pipe is more flexible than it appears.

[Phlakaton]

The thought crossed my mind actually... a rubber mallet and a good wack.  Something tells me I might be taking a risk with that - but then again this isnt rocket science either.