[blackbox]

Hi Everyone,

Neophyte here.  Very new to Enfields, very new at motorcycle repair.  I bought a '95 Bullet 500 that has 481 miles on it - wasn't in running condition when I got it, but it was stored properly by a "collector" some years ago.  The rubber manifolds between the airbox-carb-cylinder head were dry-rotted and the kickstart pedal was missing. 

So far I've replaced all the fluids - oil, gear box oil, clutch case oil - new batter, checked air filter, cleaned out carb (didn't need it though), cleaned petcock and put in-line fuel filter in.  Bike is all stock - stock airbox, carb, exhaust.

Today I flushed the tank with gas, put everything back together and tried to get it started for the first time since ownership.

I followed the starting instructions - think I got the hang of it - my ammeter seems a little weird, it only shows the "tick to the left, then back to center" info some of the time - sometimes I can slowly move through the stroke with the decompression release on and it never moves to the left.  And a few times I would watch the meter move left, then back to center, I would immediately let go of the compression release and it was virtually impossible to kick through - I could stand on the kick start lever.

I would release pressure and try again - the only thing that ever happened was smoke started to come out of the airbox - I had one of the box screws undone to accommodate the new mainfold I constructed from a cars radiator hose.  I saw smoke and immediately stopped.  I took the airbox off and examined the filter - it seemed ok.  I put it back together and decided to try again.  Same deal - more smoke.

So, I'm guess this is bad.  When I took off the airbox the second time a tiny amount of smoke came from the backside of the carb.

I could hear some noise coming through the exhaust pipe, but I'm thinking the problem could be something with my exhaust valves.  Now, I did take a look at the valve timing when I was going through everything - it looked just fine.  And with the low mileage of the bike I would think it should be in order.  Maybe the few times I tried to kick through and was met with tons of resistance could mean something.

Anyone have any suggestions on what I should check/try/do next?  Also, how dangerous is this occurrence?  Should I avoid this at all costs?

Thanks for any suggestions,
Matthew

[jest2dogs]

You didn't mention checking points, plug or ignition timing. Is it possible that the ignition could be so far advanced that it is "coughing" backwards through the intake (bad). Also the prior owner may have stored it with some oil in the combustion chamber to prevent top end corrosion (though one would think this would've leaked down to the crankcase by now).

I always "clear" my bike before kick starting. With the ignition "OFF", I pull in the clutch and kick her through several times to free up the clutch plates. Next I hold in the compression release and kick her through several times. In my case I have an Amal carb, so after bringing the piston to TDC, I flood the carb, turn "ON"  the key, and kick her through. She usually goes on the first or second "live" kick. Don't give it any throttle.

And check yer timing!

-Jesse

[c1skout]

Ditto on checking the timing. Check the points too for proper gap and pitting, etc.

[Foggy_Auggie]

The ammeter "tick" to the left is the points opening.  Going to center is the points closing.  The ammeter will only go right of center when the engine is running and charging the battery.

You'll want the ammeter to "tick" left less then 1mm before top dead center of the piston.

To get it in the ballpark, use a dowel rod or welding rod to use as a gauge in the spark plug opening (long enough to not drop in the cylinder).  Slowly push the kickstart by hand and gauge by eye the rod motion in sequence with the ammeter "tick".  To get it started you could just use TDC as the mechanical advance comes in quickly at low RPM.  The host sells a good little TDC tool at a modest price.

If there is a large blue spark at the points - the condensor is bad.

Turn it over with the spark plug grounded to the head and make sure a nice blue spark is at the plug.

Hopefully you've got a handbook and adjusted the valves, points, etc.

Smoke coming from the air box in itself is not necessarily bad.  This bike has sat for a long time.  Some breathing hoses maybe gummed up.  And you'll get smoke coming off the header pipe the first time it's ran also.

The first ride after the full operating temp is reached - make note then of what's going on, if anything.

[Kevin Mahoney]

Matthew,
Welcome aboard. the good news is that your bike is so simple that we will be able to get to the bottom of this easily. The bad news is that it is going to take some patience. Others may give you other good advice but here is mine.

1. You have to start at the very beginning. I would suggest that you consider a new set of points and condenser, probably a new plug, an investment in a Top Dead Center tool, a volt meter (even a very cheap one is fine - I much prefer the analog type) and last but not least Pete Snidals manual - it is particularly good for older models.All can be found here
http://www.royalenfieldusa.com/dead-center-findertiming-tool-p-469.html
http://www.royalenfieldusa.com/original-bullet-motorcycle-tuneup-save-more-than-p-495.html
http://www.royalenfieldusa.com/snidal-royal-enfield-motorcycle-repair-manual-edition-p-242.html

2. Your ammeter should swing to the left every time the points close which is most of the time. It indicates that current is flowing through the points, hence the discharge on the meter. If it is acting erratically it may be that the points are worn out or (more likely dirty). If you don't want to spring for a new set, at least clean them and gap them at .015"

3. Next check your timing (highly likely that it is off). The Top Dead Center tool is invaluable for this, but in a pinch I have done it with a pencil upon which I made marks 1/32" apart. Long story short, using the tool of choice, bring the engine to TDC of the compression stroke (not the top of the exhaust stroke), Then back it down enough to take the slack out of the timing gears and move the piston up to 1/32" before the spot you marked at TDC. With the piston in this position, loosen the backing plate of that the points are on and move the points plate until you either hear the spark plug "snap" or see the ammeter go from deflected to the middle. Then tighten everything up.

4. Everyone ignores this, but check your battery. A good battery will have at LEAST 13 volts in it. A low battery will mimic all  sorts of things including the symptoms you describe.
Then follow the starting procedure. Use the choke, and I like the idea of kicking it through a few times before turning the key on and trying to start it.

5. When you kick it, put your weight into it. Strength is not as important as technique. A long kick with follow through is very helpful. I like to hit the top of my boot on the underside of the foot peg. They almost always start in the last 1/3 of the kick.

A couple of things to look for on this bike
1. The alternator won't charge unless the key is in the second "on" position. It will run in the first, but not charge.
When your bike runs the ammeter should be three-fourths of the way up the scale. If it hovers in the middle it is not charging and will need attention.
2. When you have the distributor cap off, move th points cam back and forth with your thumb and forefinger. It should move back and forth freely. (rotate a few degrees back and forth - I do not mean rock back and forth). It not check and see if the washer under the bolt that holds the cam on is keeping it from turning freely.
3. At some point (like when you are replacing the points) take the points cover off and inspect the back side. In some of the older bikes the advance weights would hit the back of the condenser.

This should be enough to keep you out of trouble for a while.

[Foggy_Auggie]

You're right RE1 on the ammeter positions - my post had it reversed.  Senior moment 

[blackbox]

Thanks for the advice everyone,

Threw a new plug in before the test, but need a few more on hand.  Have the multi meter but yet to use it.  Can anyone lend any advice to what types of things I can check concerning this problem with the multi meter?  I need to check the voltage of the new battery, are there other tests to complete?

I'm going to just spring for a new points and condenser set and definitely going to get the TDC tool.

I'll start going through the checklist and report with more questions.

Thanks guys,
matthew

[Foggy_Auggie]

Be careful with the two threaded anchors that lock the point plate in position.  Very small threads and are very easily stripped.  Go EASY - and this is not a senior moment 

If they are stripped - our host sells a repair kit.

[fredgold52]

Good advice that!  I've got one on the verge of stripping.  Also glad to hear CMW has a kit to fix it.

[blackbox]

Hi Again Everyone,

So I got my parts in and got a chance to do some work yesterday.  I got myself a little confused and twisted around, I think I just need to talk this one out....

So first I just replaced my points and condenser and now I'm getting good/proper performance from that section.   Although it was hard to get the .015" feeler gauge in between the points because of the gauge size I think the gap is correct.  I hear the points click when they touch and a spark tester test reveals a good powerful spark when kicking through.  My confusion comes with the ignition timing...

So the ammeter deflects to the left when the points close, correct?  And that should happen when the piston is 1/32" before TDC, yes?  So I need to advance or retard my timing plate for the points to close before TDC.  Also, my Snidal manual arrived since I last posted and I've been following that.  What is my easiest way of advancing the piston?  The kick start lever just doesn't make smooth enough passes for me to accurately gauge TDC and its definitely hard to position it 1/32" before TDC.  I racked my brain a bit yesterday but just though I'd ask the board before taking something apart and at the least loosing my gear oil if not worse. 

And I'll take my chances with this potentially (likely) stupid question, but what are some things I can look/listen/feel for to make sure I'm at TDC of compression and not exhaust?  I'm trying to hear the "woosh" through the exhaust pipe but not doing a good job at that.  And does the fact I'm holding the compression release make this harder for me?  Should I just release...the release...and feel for compression buildup?

I'm noticing much more regular and consistent ammeter movement after replacing the points, so I think that was definitely part of the problem.  And although I got myself confused and its hard to see small movements I think my timing might be off a bit.  My multimeter is on the fritz so I haven't done specific checks...batteries maybe but I've only used it once before so its basically brand new (and it has an off position, so shouldnt be it?)

Oh, and can you help me make sure I get the right part.  My petcock started leaking badly when I went to take everything apart again after my first test start.  From CMW, the "male petcock receiver" means the tank has a protruding, threaded collar correct?  My old petcock has the exact same appearance as part #143761 with the copper screen showing.  My bike is a 1995 Bullet 500.

Thanks again everyone, appreciate the help,
mc

[Foggy_Auggie]

Make sure the rear wheel is off the ground with the bike on the centerstand.  If not, use a board under the centerstand.

Put the transmission in a higher gear - clutch in and out while having a helper turn the rear wheel.

Then use the rear wheel to turn the engine over.  May have to gently bump the rear wheel to get the engine to turn.

With the spark plug removed and the TDC tool in place the compression release is not necessary.

I use a rubber mallet on the kick start and bump the kick start to get the piston at TDC.  Then mark the tool.  This will take a few tries.  A little practice and gauging by eye will get easy.

To start things off - get the points to open at TDC.  The mechanical advance comes in at very low RPM on this engine.  I'd just start at this point to get it running and get a feel for the process.  It can even be driven like this.

To get 0.08mm BTDC on the tool is a little tricky.  That's why just starting at TDC to get the engine running will give practice and get it to go.  And it won't hurt anything.

Good luck!