[tooseevee]

                 Referring to my previous starting problem (which is now solved) how does the Kill Switch keep the solenoid from being activated if you jam a screwdriver between the two studs?

                 

[barenekd]

Are you jamming the screwdriver between the two big studs? Or the two little ones? You gotta use the big 'uns. Those should be a direct connection to the battery. However, if the big ground wire from the battery is not connected, but everything is just grounded through the little black wire, the nothing is grounded if the kill switch is off. Check your big ground wire for continuity to ground. That could have been a part of your problem all along.
Bare

[tooseevee]

Are you jamming the screwdriver between the two big studs? Or the two little ones? You gotta use the big 'uns. Those should be a direct connection to the battery. However, if the big ground wire from the battery is not connected, but everything is just grounded through the little black wire, the nothing is grounded if the kill switch is off. Check your big ground wire for continuity to ground. That could have been a part of your problem all along.
Bare

            Of course I did the big ones.

             Didn't you read my message on the other thread yet?

               My grounds are all fine. The battree is fine. It's my Dumb Switch that was in the wrong position.

[barenekd]

Yeah, I did read the other posts. The starter should work regardless of switch positions if you jump the posts. There's still supposed to be just a hot wire from the battery to the solenoid. The starter should work, but the bike won't start. I still think your main ground wire isn't. It's hard to check because the ground indication will go through the other black wires and give a you a false reading if the switches are on. You need to isolate the big one.
Bare

[Arizoni]

If the heavy negative ground wire from the battery is connected to the frame/engine block and you jump the two large terminals on the starter solenoid with a screw driver the starter motor should start running.

Of course, that assumes the heavy positive power wire is good and is connected from the battery's positive terminal to the starter solenoid.

I mention this because looks can be deceiving and both of these wires may look connected but if there is an internal break down between the wire eyelets and the actual wire it may be good enough to carry weak amounts of current but it won't carry the heavy amperage the starter motor will demand.

Many times I've seen battery cables that looked good and looked connected on automobiles but the starter wouldn't work.
On removing the cables on these cars I've found all sorts of corrosion between the terminals and the cables, or cables that had wires that were so badly corroded that they wouldn't carry any current in excess of that needed to light the headlights.

I know on our Royal Enfields we don't usually let things get that bad but still there is a chance of an internal wiring breakdown between the cable ends and the heavy wire.

I think Royal Enfield India studied and took to heart the words found in,
 "The Basics of Proper Wiring and Its Application to Motor Vehicles-1947"  as written by Lucas.
I've heard rumors that his chapter entitled "The Creation of Electrical Smoke" was particularly fascinating to them. 

[tooseevee]

Yeah, I did read the other posts. The starter should work regardless of switch positions if you jump the posts. There's still supposed to be just a hot wire from the battery to the solenoid. The starter should work, but the bike won't start. I still think your main ground wire isn't. It's hard to check because the ground indication will go through the other black wires and give a you a false reading if the switches are on. You need to isolate the big one.
Bare

           I, too, have seen starter cables so corroded that they were nothing but green mush inside the insullation, but that's not the problem here. Neither is a bad ground. The bike started immediately after I put the Kill Switch back where it should have been if I'd used my half a brain & looked. I've been through all these wires & connections with an obsessive-compulsive's fine tooth comb since I bought the bike & they are all OK.

            My problem was simply the Kill Switch was on Kill.

            Problem over. End of thread. 

            PS: I may not have gotten the screwdriver jammed in there good enough.