[ridgerunner]

I worked til midnight, went home for a few hours then drove the 2 1/2 hours out to Velocity. Picked up the bike and hauled it 2 1/2 hours back home just in time to grab a bite to eat, unload the bike and ride it on in to work. All seems well but I may need to make another clutch adjustment. It doesn't feel like it wants to creep with the clutch in but it seems to take more effort to roll it backward as if it's still engaged ever so slightly. Honestly, it may have been like that before and I just never noticed, but I would think that even the slightest drag would cause it to heat up while sitting at a traffic light without being in neutral. All I do know for sure is it's great to have it back home!

[birdmove]

  I never sit in gear on any motorcycle.Especially my Bullet.I fond neutral while I'm still rolling a little, and sit there in neutral. I don't think these bikes like sitting in gear at all.
    jon

[Vince]

     I run a full liter of 20W50. It really does help and does not affect clutch usage. Most of my starter clutch issues are with low mile or infrequent use units. Trying to start with a low battery (from sitting) causes the kick back that damages them. The guys that use their bike regularly don't have nearly as many issues.
     At a stop put the bike in neutral. You will have problems if you don't.The clutch will drag, and you will fry the clutch push rod, thus losing use of the clutch.

[ridgerunner]

     I run a full liter of 20W50. It really does help and does not affect clutch usage. Most of my starter clutch issues are with low mile or infrequent use units. Trying to start with a low battery (from sitting) causes the kick back that damages them. The guys that use their bike regularly don't have nearly as many issues.
     At a stop put the bike in neutral. You will have problems if you don't.The clutch will drag, and you will fry the clutch push rod, thus losing use of the clutch.

99% of the time I do stop in neutral, there's just one stop along my route where I need to turn left across two lanes of traffic. That's where I noticed the drag...that and the wheel spin even in neutral when on the centerstand.

[GreenMachine]

RidgeRunner: Talked with ya via email a couple of weeks ago....Read your lenghty discussion on the continuing saga of the terminal machine...What was the eventual fixes and your return to sanity???

[ridgerunner]

RidgeRunner: Talked with ya via email a couple of weeks ago....Read your lenghty discussion on the continuing saga of the terminal machine...What was the eventual fixes and your return to sanity???

I was told there was excessive run-out causing it to overheat. He had questioned the oil quality based on the overheating as these aluminum alloy models shed heat so well. Best we can figure is it just wasn't set up right in the first place. Now I've got all new parts and  so far everything seems to be ok. Only time will slowly rebuilt my trust and confidence in both the bike and the dealer. 125 miles so far this week and she's purring right along. As far as my return to sanity...my wife will tell you that's not to be expected!

[REpozer]

Do you believe that the fluid in the primary (420ml) may have been a factor?I still have what looks like factory ATF in mine.  My thoughts are to fill with 946ml(quart) of 10w-40 first 300mile service.(I operate in cool conditions 40F-65F or +5C to +20C)Thoughts? Suggestions?

[ridgerunner]

Do you believe that the fluid in the primary (420ml) may have been a factor?I still have what looks like factory ATF in mine.  My thoughts are to fill with 946ml(quart) of 10w-40 first 300mile service.(I operate in cool conditions 40F-65F or +5C to +20C)Thoughts? Suggestions?

Frankly, I don't believe the oil was the problem. If it was, more people would be having the same result. I would recommend you change the fluid at 300 miles and take a good look at it. Look for wear materials and other tell-tale indicators. I should have acted sooner after seeing metalic stuff in the oil instead of thinking "so this is what running-in the bike does". I would certainly take Vince's advice and add the whole liter (840ml) to protect against starter clutch issues. Just use a good grade of motorcycle specific oil that meets the manufacturers spec and it should be fine.

[jonapplegate]

If Vince says you should do something it would behoove you to do it. He is the man. I bought my bike from his shop. Before I even bought it he warned me about the starter(sprag)clutch. Said that there had been problems recently and expect it to go. That is honesty. This was before a fix had been thought up, like adding more oil than recommended to the primary case.
     Bottom line, VINCE + ADVICE = DO IT!

[ridgerunner]

Well, I've had the bike back for nearly 400 miles. During that time I have changed all the fluids and the primary twice. The oil from the primary was a honey-gold with only minor wear material. I adjusted the clutch cable at the tranny (felt a little drag when stopped) and changed the fluid a second time a hundred or so miles later just to be certain my adjustment didn't cause problems. Everything seems to be working smoothly and having taken Vince's advice on overfilling the primary, the clutch seems a lot smoother. I guess we'll never really know the root cause of the failure, but with a minor inconvenience, all has been corrected to my complete satisfaction. Thanks to all of you that gave advice and support, and a special thanks to our host for all of the behind-the-scenes support. Hope to see some of you out on the road!

[birdmove]

   Glad your back on the road again!!

    jon