Author Topic: The Oil Line Feed To The Top End  (Read 2047 times)

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tooseevee

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on: April 02, 2012, 06:15:03 pm
Reference the oil line feed to the top end on a 2008 AVL:

                Is that lower connection (below the split) from the cases brazed or soldered?

                 Are those oil lines steel or copper?
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


Ice

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Reply #1 on: April 02, 2012, 07:17:02 pm
My guess is brazed mild steel in the same fashion as the oil lines on my Iron Barrel.
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tooseevee

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Reply #2 on: April 02, 2012, 07:47:44 pm
My guess is brazed mild steel in the same fashion as the oil lines on my Iron Barrel.

           I'd guess you're right. I'd sure love to be able to pop the whole thing out as a unit, Scotch Brite it & have it be copper. But I don't 'spose I'd be that lucky.

            I could recreate the whole thing in copper tubing & compression fittings, I 'spose, but I might not like the look when I'm done.

             Oh, well. Cold & windy here & I just relocated my horn to the center front motor mount bolt. Never liked where it was. I like it better now, tucked in down low behind the exhaust pipe; I never use it anyway. Guess I'll just leave it at that for the day.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


jmiller_2308

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Reply #3 on: April 02, 2012, 10:40:13 pm
I talked to Tim about copper lines and apparently they existed at one time but due to work hardening they tend to crack so they no longer carry them.  I think I saw a set on one of the Indian sites that advertise on ebay if you want to try it.

I ended up using some high temp burnt copper engine paint on mine simply because I thought they looked pretty bad the way there were and weren't cleaning up too well.  I believe the paint will crack but its cheap and I'll just do it again if need be.

I have lots of mods from the winter finishing up.  Once I'm done I'll post before and after pics including pics of the painted oil line.

Jeff


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Reply #4 on: April 12, 2012, 08:38:24 am
I talked to Tim about copper lines and apparently they existed at one time but due to work hardening they tend to crack so they no longer carry them. 

But you can get (here) copper brake pipes for cars. Wouldn't they work harden if that was the case?

And how many years would it take anyway? You could always take the pipe off every 85 years and re-aneal!
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tooseevee

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Reply #5 on: April 12, 2012, 02:40:19 pm
But you can get (here) copper brake pipes for cars. Wouldn't they work harden if that was the case?

And how many years would it take anyway? You could always take the pipe off every 85 years and re-aneal!

            I kinda chuckled to myself also about the worry over 'work hardening', but decided not to comment. I'm sure copper lines on an Enfield probably would last as long as you suggest. I've seen copper at work in many jobs way more stressful than 90% of Enfields ever encounter & it does just fine. What keeps me from doing it is being able to make the "Y" connection & the banjos look presentable & not too Rube Goldberg.   
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


DavidMeermans

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Reply #6 on: April 13, 2012, 02:01:16 am
I made a six-tube oil cooler with bypass and check valve for my '09 AVL using copper and brass tubing, and brass bar stock.  It works fine, perhaps too fine, as I also put a temp gauge on the split to the upper bearings and the temp never got much above 100 degrees.  I took it off at the mid-winter oil change and put the original plumbing back.  Now the temp runs as high as about 140 degrees-still low but better.  In Dallas, I ride all year long commuting to work--a 15 to 20 minute run at 45-50 mph.

At the last two oil changes, I had a fair slug of water in the crankcase, so will probably leave it off.   The cooler was a fun, but pointless project.  Don't know till you try though!   :)


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tooseevee

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Reply #8 on: April 13, 2012, 09:13:20 pm
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.