[fredgold52]

Agreed!  I thought I'd said something like that.  Oh well.

[t120rbullet]

I am beginning to feel a little apprehension at cruising . This is of course suggesting that it is leaning up.  This appears much better with the air bleed screw on the carburettor heat spacer full in.  ----- What is that for?
Having the spacer off to look at it ,it simply allows air into the intake from the air cleaner via the adjustment screw.

I don't think everyones on the same page here.
On the home market (Indian) bikes they have an air bleed screw in between the carb and the head. On the 350 it's on the insulating spacer in between the head and the carb and on the 500 it's on the manifold where the PAV thing goes into it on US bikes.
From what I have been led to believe the thought behind it is you can lean it out to compensate for changes in altitude.
As you open it, it will lean the mixture out across the range from idle to WFO.
Don't use that to tune the bike.
Close it off completely and then do all your tuning 101 then leave it closed until you get up around 8,000+ ft. (don't know where it is for the bullet but my old HD was good up to around that with flatland tuning)
I don't think that little feature ever made it over to this side of the pond.  Shame!
Also a 130 main would be 16 sizes larger than the stock 90 and way too rich for a 350.
A 105 main and a 27.5 pilot would be a good place to start with those mods.
The Indian Electras are not "lean burn/AVL" engines like they are in the US Electras, they are the old cast iron Bullet engine.
CJ

[clamp]

If you put 2 jets in a pipe,  say a 110 and a 130 and you flow fuel or what ever the maximum flow rate will be controlled by the smaller.

   The smaller in this case is the needle and jet until full throttle.

    Going back to the 2 jets in a pipe if the smaller was adjustable there would be no point in adjusting it bigger than the 130 unless you changed the bigger to a 140.

[clamp]

Thinking about the air adjustment on the intake. It is necessary to lean out at altitude but would one adjustable needle  jet do this?

     One small air bleed could not cope with leaning the mixture throught the rev range.

   For instance at tick over you may be able to lean up to say 2 % taking into consideration the small amount of fuel/air being drawn into the engine at that low RPM.

     At high RPM and a much larger flow of fuel/ air the previously adjusted jet would be allowing the same amount of air into the intake which would be now nothing like 2 %.

  allmost insignificant.

    What ever it was designed for it must be for low RPM???

[t120rbullet]

What ever it was designed for it must be for low RPM???

Like maybe for a Bullet 

[scoTTy]

interesting read.. as I have a 500 electra.. I got to thinking about removing all this stuff.. and then I thought about other threads where people were removing the head do scrape the carbon off and I was  wondering if perhaps this clean air apparatus hooked up would keep the head and valves cleaner, longer without having to tear it down. I don't know.. any ideas to that thought?

[Kevin Mahoney]

Nah there is no cause and effect here.  The only reason they are there is to make the air cleaner, help mitigate global warming, and keep the EPA at bay. If you do decide to remove these items, I would advise you to keep them in case you find the need to re-install them later. There is a lot of debate about what the real impact is of motorcycle emission but whatever you believe, it is the law of the land. Living in  farm country I think the next thing we'll  find mandated is a catalytic converter stuffed up the a$$ of cows in the pasture to clean up flatulance.

[bob bezin]

there is only so much co2 released in burning a gallon of gas .any motorcycle geting 45 to ? mpg is going to pollute less than a gas guzzling car .for that commute or trip to town to pick up a small item the motorcycle is the most environmentally friendly choice, besides saving gas and money

[GreenMachine]

just purchased the british 50 stlke exhaust from our sponsor..also picked up the snidal manual...per snidal and the drawing that's in the book, the PAV is nothing more than a reed valve/diaphram that provides air in between exhaust stroke thusfacilatating the completion of unburned combustion materials... sound okay to me.  he goes on to explain that negative pressure exisit and this counterbalances that issue as well as addressing the bad gas count out of the tailpipe ..that being stated, the new or old 50 style pipe that i have sitting in my back room has no PAV connection (I am currently waiting for the circular exhaust Fin (Strictly cosmetic) but it I might as well put that on and make it look pretty). Agree with our sponsor re. holding onto the original exhaust, PAV,etc as u never know what's down the pike or u may relocate to an area where the laws are stricter...Since the carbswwas rejetted once by the dealer, I am hoping that I won't have to another rejet again when i put on the 50 style pipes...The actual PAV itself looks like its bolted in the side panel and all u have to do is pull it out , disconnect the PAV connection and plug up the hole where the small tube interfaces to the other side of the Carb....Solicit your thoughts..cheers

[clamp]

Thats all very true, it does nothing that you would notice exept the exhaust bit. Im sure the engine is happier with a free flow exhaust ,--mine is. I moved the needle up 1 notch and she drives lovely. I am pleased with the way she will rev up to meet the gears and cruising along with little throttle,-- and it is is so posative, you can feed in power or let it of without jerking the chain.

       There is definately a bit more torque there too on an engine that is not exactly bursting with HP.

          I bought a classic bike and I wanted the classic bike look as well as the utter simplicity  of the reciprocating combustion engine, some how those pipes and valves just dont look commensurate.

      It could also be psychological,-- maybe its me that benefits from the removal .

        However with a totally empty exhaust I can tell you that it is a bit/lot noisy. I will have to get some pipe today and attach it to the inside of the tail pipe and re build a normal type free flo -see through type exhaust.

       What then? then I suppose I will have to ride it a bit.

[GreenMachine]

Clamp: the exhaust that I am putting on comes with a removable baffle...its about 6 -9 inches long and it apparently modified by opening or closing the array/vents..it is iinserted and a screw holds it on the blind side of the pipe...did u use that?? go without it?? I will  probably go without it at first and if I think its 2 loud I can install it...Apparently, u can play around with it and get the sound u desire ....any thoughts as I don't want something that is ridiculously loud as my star 1100 pipes are loud enough for that beast...I'm looking for something in between the 1100 and the stock pipes (rattle can) on the enfield which is why i picked the british 50 style?? Did I do right?? Time will tell..cheers

[clamp]

Green M, I dont have that type but its sounds like a good idea. I intend to make something like that at the back of the removable tail pipe.

      I read on the internet somewhere that the two different methods of silencing ie baffling and the straight through method results in different sounds.

      The latter, the straight through method with a perferated pipe surrounded with some kind of fibreglass padding will result in reducing higher tone noises leaving the lower tones in place.

       See through silencers do seem to be popular on performance minded systems. Having little restriction and there forenot reducing HP and torque yet having a lower sporty result,---well thats what I read.

    I intend to do something like that today when I get out of my pyjamas.

 

[scoTTy]

i've really enjoyed this read.. the pav system reminded me of my 68 AMX's system which I took off within 1000 miles..

I was concerned.. at first ,I will just plug it.. I like the quietness of the stock exhaust system.. since i have had BMW's for the last 35 years..  I thought about taking the baffle out of the exhaust pipe but leaving the muffler alone..

I keep looking at the Goldstar muffler and a larger CArb set up.. but I don't have the change right now.. and I am enjoying the X as it is now..  the only mod I have added is a Bunn Breather Kit..

I've been a little concerned about it , as I have ,what I consider, a whole lot of oil coming out of it.. but yet in the last 2 days.. the dipstick says full.. which is probably the problem, as I have read here.. that one shouldn't fill the RE to factory specs..  dadgum old BMW riders anyway.. they GiT weiRDed out by any oil on the garage floor..  

all in all I am really enjoying this ride, more so than any of the other high tech rides I have had.. I actually was able to start it cold this morning with the kick starter.. so maybe there is help for me after all

[GreenMachine]

scotty: yep on your last note..the Brit style exhaust from CMW sent me back a few bucks but liked the fact that our sponsor stated that the chroming is a bit better and it should fit better than the less exspensive  Indian version..Just inspected it and don't see a cat converter in the head pipe (just a pipe)..Believe that the stock pipe which has the PAV connection  has a Cat converter inside it...Not sure on that and will obviously check it when I take it off...The remaining pipe with the shorter exhaust is straight thru with a mesh like core lining the actual inside of the muffler..Not a muffler specialist but it also came with a  6-8 inch insertable baffle that u can install ..I can only assume that it can be installed and modified as one wishes...Without it, it appears to be straight shot out from the ehaust head to the end of the tail pipe...not sure what to expect when i fire it up without installing the insertable baffle//Obviously I don't expect it to sound like my 1100 with those straight shots and don't want it that loud...Anyway, pulled my back out by twisting the wrong way checking and putting air in wife's Hyosung, my bullet and the Yamamaha..I got pissed off as I had to use two different gauges to get access and verfiy the pressure and of course cursing on the engineering thing as u would think that air pressure check should be easy and quick ..Now I'm taking perscriptions and dodging muscle spasms..amazing what happend when your lower back blows out on ya...cheers and just talking nonsense ..u have a good evening

[clamp]

Took me tail pipe off and went down the scrap yard. I found a piece of stanless steel tube the same dia as the tailpipe inside. This was a bummer because I was wanting a push on fit realy. Any way it all turned out better because under close inspection the inside of the tail pipe seems to be crushed in a size.

   I sliced it quarterly and opened it up to recieve the stainless pipe, drilled the pipe with a zillion 1/4 holes and slid it into the silencer right up to the intake. I pushed on the tail pipe and bolted it up.

    It now sounds OK and is perfectly acceptable.

    By the way the small bullet silencer was available in just about every bike shop in Eggmore Chennia. I am kicking myself now because they were only 300 Ruppes, I saw one for 280 Rupees,,-----,about 12 aus dollar, --- new!!! and the chroming looked good to me.