Author Topic: Paul Henshaw's Machismo 500/AVL ton-up/High Revving build - This one works!  (Read 70392 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

AVL Power!

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: 0
Reply #90 on: November 10, 2014, 04:04:08 pm
I thought of this because I can get an Iron Barrel head, get the performance valves and springs and do some squish band work + compression bumping and then try out performance cams for Iron Barrel, by replacing my AVL head. Not that I can do it now but maybe worth the shot later. Can always take this up as a part time project and work on it but the only doubt on my part is - will it end the valve bounce issue but I guess.. for these sorta things, we need to do it to figure out.

-Sanket


ace.cafe

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 14,457
  • Karma: 1
  • World leaders in performance/racing Bullets
Reply #91 on: November 10, 2014, 04:22:49 pm
I thought of this because I can get an Iron Barrel head, get the performance valves and springs and do some squish band work + compression bumping and then try out performance cams for Iron Barrel, by replacing my AVL head. Not that I can do it now but maybe worth the shot later. Can always take this up as a part time project and work on it but the only doubt on my part is - will it end the valve bounce issue but I guess.. for these sorta things, we need to do it to figure out.

-Sanket
Don't forget that our upcoming new billet head for the UCE will also work on the AVL.

And also, it is important to avoid "scatter building". Get a goal in mind, and build toward that goal, using the correct components and methods. I see a lot of attempts to put various things together which are not designed to work well together, seemingly in some desperate attempt to make "something" happen.
Set a goal, make a design, proceed with the plan.
Do it right. Don't cheap out. Get the necessary precision machine work and measurments. Fit everything properly.

This is what I have been trying to get across to people for years. You can't "hodge-podge" a motor with a bunch of old scrap yard parts and various "speed parts", and then bolt it all together without measuring anything, and then hope it will work right. It's not cooking a stew with kitchen leftovers. It's a performance engine.

People wonder why all our stuff is designed to work with our other parts. And that we don't recommend using some eclectic concoction of "parts" from various disparate designers and sources who designed their "parts" while having no idea how some other unknown "parts" might interact with their "part", hoping it will somehow turn out right. It's because the engine is a system, and we understand that. So, we make systems.

To do a hodge-podge engine with "a piece from here, and a piece from there", the builder had better know what he is doing, and understand how to best implement the various parts to achieve the desired results. This is not always as easy as people think. Yes, it usually will achieve "some result", but rarely would it be a really good result, and never would it be optimal results.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2014, 05:26:47 pm by ace.cafe »
Home of the Fireball 535 !


AVL Power!

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: 0
Reply #92 on: November 10, 2014, 05:37:44 pm
Tom, I am keeping an eye on the GT Head thread :) I really want it but I think I will talk to Sumant in detail about all this and see what can be done. I don't like how Custom/Shipping works in here. Previously a couple of parts got seized and lost one, I don't know whom to blame, when it comes to our Bangalore Customs :P So for getting anything like this I will have to ask my friends to get it from US which is pretty much possible. More than that I need to save up enough so that I can buy another motorcycle for touring and then work on the Enfield side by side and let it evolve.

About the mods, I am going to get it done from a place (If I do it) where they've done similar things in the past. My friend has access to Flow Bench, CNCs and other precision tools/machines so quality of work is not a problem here if we don't get the math wrong. Also, he's got some decades worth of experience so hoping it will go right. I am not so serious about the head swap but maybe once I am done churning out everything from my current bike, I will start investing time on a project like that. I might sound really stupid with this sort of head swap but it wort hurt me so I guess it's fine.

This is what I have been trying to get across to people for years. You can't "hodge-podge" a motor with a bunch of old scrap yard parts and various "speed parts", and then bolt it all together without measuring anything, and then hope it will work right. It's not cooking a stew with kitchen leftovers. It's a performance engine.

People wonder why all our stuff is designed to work with our other parts. And that we don't recommend using some eclectic concoction of "parts" from various disparate designers and sources who designed their "parts" while having no idea how some other unknown "parts" might interact with their "part", hoping it will somehow turn out right. It's because the engine is a system, and we understand that. So, we make systems.

I agree to all of this very much but I am not planning to mix and match old parts. Everything new or made to match either right out of the factory or made by our tuners here. Nothing cheap works out there  ;D


ace.cafe

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 14,457
  • Karma: 1
  • World leaders in performance/racing Bullets
Reply #93 on: November 10, 2014, 05:47:19 pm
Okay. Just making sure.
I hear a lot of crazy engine building stories coming out of India!
In fact, I hear crazy engine building stories coming from all over the world, including here in the US.

With the UCE GT billet head, it would go right on, but you would need to adapt your external oiling line to be a single line to go into the oil temperature sensor location in the UCE head. And also drill/tap/plug the hole in the bottom of the head where the oil to the top end would normally come up from the UCE crankcase.
Not much to it. A carb will bolt right on to the UCE port entry. Same bolt spacing as the AVL and Iron Barrel manifold bolt spacing.

Should be a breeze!
Home of the Fireball 535 !


Adrian II

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 4,120
  • Karma: 1
  • Sharing my ignorance with anyone who needs it
Reply #94 on: November 10, 2014, 08:17:15 pm
Cast Iron Bullet into 500 AVL cases has been done by someone in Australia who got seriously fed up with his Electra-X having repeated failures (Norm on the Hitchcock's forum). The AVL con-rod is shorter than the C.I. so you'd need a longer rod to fit the AVL big end. This assumes you would keep the AVL crank and timing cover. It's probably also worth getting the AVL cam followers and guides replaced with C.I. items so you can use classic push rods. Not that I'm in any position to criticize hybrid engines ;D, but I think I'd really rather look at putting a separate C.I. Fireball engine together as it's a known package, and keep the ASBO AVL as it is, rather than change it all about again.

Having a bike which is in permanent project status can be a bit of a drag after a while, which is why I'm so looking forward to OldProj (ASBO12) being the finished (!) item with more poke and all the glitches laid to rest, or as much as they ever can be with one of these bikes.

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


ace.cafe

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 14,457
  • Karma: 1
  • World leaders in performance/racing Bullets
Reply #95 on: November 10, 2014, 08:20:35 pm
As far as I can tell, Norm has given up on Bullets.
He has not been posting on the Aussie forum for quite a while now.
I think he's finished with them.
Too bad. He was the "go to" guy in Australia for a long time.
Home of the Fireball 535 !


Adrian II

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 4,120
  • Karma: 1
  • Sharing my ignorance with anyone who needs it
Reply #96 on: November 11, 2014, 03:55:57 pm
Norm still posts on Hitchcock's forum.

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


AVL Power!

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: 0
Reply #97 on: December 05, 2014, 08:31:14 am
So here's a pic that I clicked last night when I was out for a spin. She's sort of a "Wanna-be" Scrambler now. Front and rear knobbies, got the seat done for the Cafe setup. Few more things to add.. like Clip-on bars and rear sets and I guess we'll be there (And a completely new and different front suspension!). Almost there  :P




High On Octane

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,075
  • Karma: 0
Reply #98 on: December 05, 2014, 11:55:51 am
So here's a pic that I clicked last night when I was out for a spin. She's sort of a "Wanna-be" Scrambler now. Front and rear knobbies, got the seat done for the Cafe setup. Few more things to add.. like Clip-on bars and rear sets and I guess we'll be there (And a completely new and different front suspension!). Almost there  :P

Looking good, except those stock bars do look out of place.  Also, is that a Thunderbird?  You will need to replace the headlight mounting ears with something else to make clip on bars work on your bike.  Perhaps a pair of Clubman bars can play the part for now?
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


AVL Power!

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: 0
Reply #99 on: December 05, 2014, 11:58:39 am
Looking good, except those stock bars do look out of place.  Also, is that a Thunderbird?  You will need to replace the headlight mounting ears with something else to make clip on bars work on your bike.  Perhaps a pair of Clubman bars can play the part for now?

That's a Machismo 500 with Renthal type bars for off-roading. Sort of a srambler now, can take jumps here and there, very agile. I know it doesn't go well but I am getting the rear sets done. It's hard to buy something off ebay as I don't know how they'll work. So the best option for me is to make a replica of what my friend uses on his bike. So once that rear sets are done, I am going with clip on bars. Can try clubman bars too but shipping is way too high (Like for a 40 USD part I would have to pay like 100 USD shipping which doesn't make any sense to me).
And yes the headlight is from Thunderbird so I am getting a smaller 5" headlight which we usually see in bobbers and cafes. So that would look good with the bars, I guess.


High On Octane

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,075
  • Karma: 0
Reply #100 on: December 05, 2014, 12:04:35 pm
That's a Machismo 500 with Renthal type bars for off-roading. Sort of a srambler now, can take jumps here and there, very agile. I know it doesn't go well but I am getting the rear sets done. It's hard to buy something off ebay as I don't know how they'll work. So the best option for me is to make a replica of what my friend uses on his bike. So once that rear sets are done, I am going with clip on bars. Can try clubman bars too but shipping is way too high (Like for a 40 USD part I would have to pay like 100 USD shipping which doesn't make any sense to me).
And yes the headlight is from Thunderbird so I am getting a smaller 5" headlight which we usually see in bobbers and cafes. So that would look good with the bars, I guess.

Really?!  $100 to ship handlebars?!    :o  Geesh.  As for the headlight, I was commenting on the mounts themselves, not so much the light.  Clip on bars clamp to the top portion of the fork legs between the triple trees.  You need a headlight mount that doesn't obstruct the entire portion of the fork leg there.
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


AVL Power!

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: 0
Reply #101 on: December 05, 2014, 12:10:04 pm
Really?!  $100 to ship handlebars?!    :o  Geesh.  As for the headlight, I was commenting on the mounts themselves, not so much the light.  Clip on bars clamp to the top portion of the fork legs between the triple trees.  You need a headlight mount that doesn't obstruct the entire portion of the fork leg there.

Yea, I was going through some of the handle bars on Ebay. Looks like the trend is lower the item price to attract people and them slam them shipping charges on em  :o

Yes I get it, I will change the stays from sides and it will be a different setup which will be coming out right from the center part, via an attachment. Once that is done I will probably lower the bike by few inches too. Front and rear 18 and WP front suspension from the KTMs and shorter suspension @ the rear, matching the front. Still a lot needs to be done  :-X


High On Octane

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,075
  • Karma: 0
Reply #102 on: December 05, 2014, 12:18:05 pm
Yea, I was going through some of the handle bars on Ebay. Looks like the trend is lower the item price to attract people and them slam them shipping charges on em  :o

Yes I get it, I will change the stays from sides and it will be a different setup which will be coming out right from the center part, via an attachment. Once that is done I will probably lower the bike by few inches too. Front and rear 18 and WP front suspension from the KTMs and shorter suspension @ the rear, matching the front. Still a lot needs to be done  :-X

I hear ya!  I keep thinking I'm almost done with my bike, but I still need to rebuild the right head, install a cafe seat pan, swap out to 16" wheels which means replacing the forks and swingarm and spacing the drive sprocket...  Blah blah blah.  :D
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


AVL Power!

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: 0
Reply #103 on: December 05, 2014, 12:19:04 pm
Story of our life  :'( ;D ;D


AVL Power!

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: 0
Reply #104 on: November 29, 2015, 07:01:01 am
Finally she's back home! Paul!! Thanks a ton, motor feels real good. Revs hard, quick and very dam peppy! I even forgot that I was breaking in with the new barrel and piston and revved past 7k rpm by mistake. Can't wait till the break in is done, I think I will give her some slack till 500kms and start riding it hard from them :D