[AVL Power!]

Happiness!!


Thanks a Ton Paul!

So finally this thread got revived, instead of making a new thread, thought of updating it here.

Next stage will be sourcing new UCE crank - Looks like the UCE motors use same AVL crank and con-rod with hardened outer race. So plonking the UCE con-rod on my AVL crank, new block+ Piston + BW's crown mod and then these cams + a 19T front sprocket. It's going to take another 2 month's time as I have to visit my GF this month but all's good. Been dying to get these cams!!

[ace.cafe]

How did you determine that the UCE rod has an outer bearing race in it?
From the reports that I have read, they say it does not have one.

[AVL Power!]

A friend who swapped con-rod said that they do? I was assuming that he was right. But if he isn't then no other go But even with no outer race do you think UCE con-rods are better than AVLs?


-Sanket

[ace.cafe]

A friend who swapped con-rod said that they do? I was assuming that he was right. But if he isn't then no other go But even with no outer race do you think UCE con-rods are better than AVLs?


-Sanket

As far as I know, they are the same rods for AVL and UCE.
I don't know if the new production is better, or not.

And these stories about having a race, or no race, keep coming up. It's very confusing.

[AVL Power!]

I know keeps giving me hopes

[TejK]

Next stage will be sourcing new UCE crank - Looks like the UCE motors use same AVL crank and con-rod with hardened outer race.

Why don't you verify the thing people claim to be true by spending some time at the workshop of practically checking the actual parts. I have seem many people buy part assuming what 'someone' said was correct only to realize the truth later after the expensive rebuilds.

I am using the original AVL con-rod and it holding  up pretty good despite the occasional rev madness i get into However, 90% of the time the bike is kept within reasonable revs (RPM<5500) thru the gears . It maybe advisable to actually go for a proper performance part from ACE of Hitchcock in case you are looking to change the original ones.

There is another important aspect to street performance - reliability. And that comes from quality parts which can take the additional loading after a performance build. I would suggest investing in the internals of good quality for the build and then you can keep upgrading the other 'bolt on' parts over a period of time

Also, it maybe advisable to have new cam followers installed with the new cams as I understand your current engine prob need a replacement anyway.

Cheers !!

[AVL Power!]

I was actually talking to Vivek and he said that UCE con-rods are slightly better so we talked about the outer race too. I will go to indiMotard and see if they got any spare UCE-Con-rod

[TejK]

I was actually talking to Vivek and he said that UCE con-rods are slightly better so we talked about the outer race too. I will go to indiMotard and see if they got any spare UCE-Con-rod

I think it maybe a case of assuming that one is better than the other based on people's opinion. Th only way to check is to actually go along the engineering evaluation of the both. Ideally get a good part from Hitchcock or Ace to get the performance you are looking for.

I would recommend that as you have been saving up for quite some time for good parts, so don't leave the most important one out.

Cheers!

[AVL Power!]

So we split the cases finally. Everything looks fine just that the Big end bearings gave up and the ball bearings were lying inside the case. That was pretty scary!

Here's some photos of the piston, barrel - I was actually expecting a dirtier internal than this

P.S - Asbo 12 in the making! Thank you Paul!

[AVL Power!]

More photos -

[AVL Power!]

Few more -

[AVL Power!]

Barrel close look -

[AVL Power!]

Paul, I just got the piston shaved from top, the outer 20mm but it's sort of a dome as the outer edge was shaved down by 2mm but as we went closer to the center 64mm it was not exactly 2mm, sort of a slope there.

You think this will work or harm the build in any way? I was talking to my friend he said this might work? he was also saying that if valves come in contact then we can make relief points making sure no contact. So do you think this is fine or do I just re-shave the entire 20mm FLAT Down by 2mm.

[Bullet Whisperer]

Hi Sanket, it is VITAL that this area of the piston crown is machined FLAT looking inwards radially for a distance of 10mm, otherwise the squish are will not do its' job and the piston crown will probably hit the head at the squish face. Whatever amount was [or is to be] removed from the underside of the cylinder barrel and base of the liner, in my case 2mm was removed, is what also needs to be removed depth wise  from this radial cut. I reduced the head diameters of the valves by about 0.5mm and bevelled the faces of them to give more piston clearance when I was experimenting with various cams and timings, but I doubt you really need to do this unless you want the extra clearance in any case. My piston modification is pictured:
 [Sorry for the rather poor quality of the pictures]
 B.W.

[AVL Power!]

Thats all I wanted to know Paul. Thanks

I will do as you mentioned.