[MOKAN-BULLET]

Any Advice?

[Thumper]

I believe the Electra X rear wheel/axle.hub assembly is slightly different than the Classics; however these notes might be of use:

http://members.verizon.net/allofusmorrows/RE_maintenance.htm

See section "V Rear Brake Cam Lubrication and Rear Wheel and Brake-hub/Sprocket Removal"

Matt

[Kevin Mahoney]

As far as I know they are the same.

[mrunderhill1975a]

I think the link that Matt provided covers just about everything.  It is always nice to have a bike lift, if you are alone it is a bit difficult to lean the bike and kick the wheel out.  As for me, I rigged a home made lift with four blocks and two sheets of 1" plywood. Once on the lift I was able to remove the ramp and then had plenty of room to lower the wheel.

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[MOKAN-BULLET]

That works good I used a couple of 2x4s under each side of the Stand lift it just high enough to get the wheel out.

I did a little work on her Friday afternoon I got the wheel off.

But how do you break the chain? I assume it just like a bicycle?

[Leonard]

Master link

That works good I used a couple of 2x4s under each side of the Stand lift it just high enough to get the wheel out.

I did a little work on her Friday afternoon I got the wheel off.

But how do you break the chain? I assume it just like a bicycle?

[Leonard]

M-B,
  What kind of project do you have going on?
Leonard

[MOKAN-BULLET]

The Broken Bolt thread is mine

I need to take hub apart to replace that stud

[Leonard]

Righht!  I need to pay more attention.  Would you like me to send you a picture of the rear brake and/or rear hub out of the parts book?

[baird4444]

MR. U-  looks like a simple set up...
what kind of tires are you running??

           I like the way they look.   - Mike

[mrunderhill1975a]

I see you found the master link and got the chain off so I won't say anything about that except the "elbow" of the master link clip should be pointed toward the direction of chain travel when you reinstall.

Mike,
The ramp lift is simple, the only modification I will do next time is secure the ramp board to the horizontal board to prevent the ramp from exiting backward when accelerating.  I will use some sort of pins or something.

As for the tires, they are the Dunlop K70 knock-off 3.50X19  Cheng Shins our host sells.  I put the 3.50s on both the front and rear.  I really like the look, and they grip much better than the worn out Avons that they replaced.  The old avons were very old and starting to crack, and apparently, when tires get that old they grip very little.  I was a bit surprised at how sticky the Cheng Shins are, but again, that may because old tires had nearly crystalized and lost grip over time.

[Leonard]

Any clearance problems with the 3.50 on the front?  Did the larger front have any affect on handling?  I've run the Cheng Shins on the rear for the last 6K miles and have been pleased with it except for the mileage, time to replace it.

As for the tires, they are the Dunlop K70 knock-off 3.50X19  Cheng Shins our host sells.  I put the 3.50s on both the front and rear. 

[mrunderhill1975a]

The 3.50X19 Cheng Shin on the front was close to the fender on one side (1/4") and not so close on the other.  I just tweeked the fender stay a bit to even it out.

The handling was a bit different at very low speeds, and by low I mean parking lot speed.  I attribute this to the much better grip of the new tires compared to the cracking Avons they replaced.  Although the cross-section shape of the rear Cheng Shin is rounded compared to the square Avon.  At higher speeds, I did not notice a large difference in handling, perhaps it requires a bit more effort to get that initial lean, and once it does lean, it is somewhat more abrupt than the Avons.  I think some riders describe this as "flop-over".

So to make a long story even longer, I would say the Cheng Shin3.50 handling is a bit "heavy" at slow speed, and has an abrupt lean or "oversteer" at higher speed.

[geoffbaker]

Time for me to check the rear hub too. I've already removed engine, gearbox, pannier frame, mudguards, chainguard and chain... might as well go the whole hog. I'ts a good time to check it now, while I'm waiting for some parts for the gearbox...!

Question: when I removed the chain, the master link was on the inner side - hard to get to. Any problem reversing it to be on the outside?

Also, is a chainbreak tool something worth investing in? Doesn't seem like it would get too much use...

[Thumper]

Time for me to check the rear hub too. I've already removed engine, gearbox, pannier frame, mudguards, chainguard and chain... might as well go the whole hog. I'ts a good time to check it now, while I'm waiting for some parts for the gearbox...!

Question: when I removed the chain, the master link was on the inner side - hard to get to. Any problem reversing it to be on the outside?

Also, is a chainbreak tool something worth investing in? Doesn't seem like it would get too much use...

I don't think it matters which direction the master link passes through. I always have it facing outward so I can get to the clip.

When I buy cheapo chains from JC Whitney, a chain breaking tool is a must - since I've got to size the chain to the bike. OTOH, cheapo chain breakers are a waste of money.

Matt