[Chuck D]

So, the 300th mile is almost here, and all good bulleteers know what that means.  So,a coupla' questions. First, when I look down below, I see three hex head nuts. One all the way forward and to the right that I assume is the sump. The next about four inches and directly behind the first that I assume to be for the oil tank proper. Then a third (at the moment) mystery hex head all the way near the back and to the right ((when looking from below).Do I remove this too and what exactly is it? Also, Is it necessary to open the timing case to get all the oil out? And oh, this is for an '06 sixty-5.  Thanks in advance, Chuck.

[fredgold52]

Here's a link to the discussion when I did my first oil change.  There are several excellent suggestions from bulleteers.  Hope it helps you.

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,1116.0.html

[Foggy_Auggie]

The rear most bottom plug is the oil tank itself.

The middle and front plug are the oil screens in the lubrication path to and from the oil pump.

Remove all three for the first oil change.  Check the screens for gunk (shouldn't be any) and be careful as the screens are fragile.

Just remove the rear most oil tank plug every other oil change.

And the side plug (bolt) on the timing chest must be removed to drain the chest.  Refill the chest through the front tappet opening (you'll see after removing the tappet cover).

Check your owners manual for the cc's of oil needed in the timing chest.  I use a small funnel and a turkey baster for this.

And have a few shop rags handy!

[Chuck D]

Thanks for the suggestions and clarifications guys.  Chuck.

[Charro]

The rear most bottom plug is the oil tank itself.

The middle and front plug are the oil screens in the lubrication path to and from the oil pump.

Remove all three for the first oil change.  Check the screens for gunk (shouldn't be any) and be careful as the screens are fragile.

Just remove the rear most oil tank plug every other oil change.

And the side plug (bolt) on the timing chest must be removed to drain the chest.  Refill the chest through the front tappet opening (you'll see after removing the tappet cover).

Check your owners manual for the cc's of oil needed in the timing chest.  I use a small funnel and a turkey baster for this.

And have a few shop rags handy!

So is the timing drainig bolt on the bottom or the side of the timing case?
Andy

[Foggy_Auggie]

It's that prominent large bolt head on the side, centered in the middle and right above the oil pump profile in the cover casting.  It is aligned with the center of the crankshaft.

Unscrew it and oil will flow out.  And it has a smooth "stud" that fits into the donut seal of the oil pump drive gear at the right side of the crank.

[Charro]

It's that prominent large bolt head on the side, centered in the middle and right above the oil pump profile in the cover casting.  It is aligned with the center of the crankshaft.

Unscrew it and oil will flow out.  And it has a smooth "stud" that fits into the donut seal of the oil pump drive gear at the right side of the crank.

AH HA, that explains why whenever I changed my oil I overfilled it. I assumed that the most forward drain plug that is on the timing chest side drained it. Silly me, now I know. The  owners and Sindal manual was kind of hard to understand.

Thanks Andy

[ridgerunner]

I posted this elsewhere, but I'm still confused. I did my first oil change and have read in the manuals and on this board about the need to drain the timing chest through a bolt on the side. I have looked at the exploded diagram of the engine and found the bolt in question, but IT IS NOT ON MY BIKE! There is just a flat spot on the cover where the bolt should be. I think the chest drained when I pulled the oil filter because a bunch of oil poured out and I was able to add the 200ml through the tappet area without overfilling. Anybody have any ideas about this?   
  In case anyone is interested, the oil showed a lot of silver and coppery colored metal slivers and there was a rather large piece of gray stuff (not sure if it was paint or gasket sealer) covering part of the screen in the forward most drain plug. I used the Top 1 oil from classic motorworks which was purple in color. I liked that because I could definitely tell if it was the new oil flowing or the old brown/black oil when checking for flow.

[mbevo1]

Ridgerunner -

I recall you've got the AVL Classic?

The AVL motor has a different oil pump setup from the iron motor... don't think it uses the same worm gear and removable quill bolt that we're talking about.

Now about "a lot" of stuff in the oil... I'd probaly do another inspection/change in a couple hundred miles and start talking to the dealer if it's still "making metal"...

Mike ans Stumpy in Michigan

[ridgerunner]

Ridgerunner -

I recall you've got the AVL Classic?

The AVL motor has a different oil pump setup from the iron motor... don't think it uses the same worm gear and removable quill bolt that we're talking about.

Now about "a lot" of stuff in the oil... I'd probaly do another inspection/change in a couple hundred miles and start talking to the dealer if it's still "making metal"...

Mike ans Stumpy in Michigan

It's weird because they show the drain bolt in the engine diagram, but oh well it's done and running better than ever. I can really feel a difference as it breaks in. I had a white antifreeze jug I cut in half from top to bottom to use as a pan. I used one half for the engine oil and the other for the tranny. The white really helped me see the junk in the oils. The tranny was worse than the engine with a lot of fine grit and the oil was nearly black, the engine oil was a lighter coffee color but had surprisingly large slivers in it.

[clamp]

Thats the whole point of changing the oil --to get the slivers and other muck out from when the engine was machined.  Its not because the oil is worn out or such.

          The filter should catch a lot of debris also --thats is important. At RE in India they told me that if I could'nt get to a service centre around 600Km jut change the filter.

   As it happened my trip across India failed as I decided I didnt want to die in a pool of blood next to a goat which was imminent if I continued on. The bike was back at the dealers by 550Km. 

       

[Kevin Mahoney]

In my humble and somewhat cowardly opinion you made the right choice by deciding not to drive the bike in India. Out in the country out of traffic is one thing, but in traffic it is absolutely a life threatening exercise.

[clamp]

Your not kidding. We did 300km out and 300kms back again the next day. How we managed to find our way back into Chennai and the dealers has not yet been fully  understood, assistance from the Gods is the only explanation.

     Not wanting to hijack the thread but my mate had a narrow escape when he was literally pushed up to a wall, he was  stopped and right up to this wall as this overtaking bus heading towards him at 100Kmh sped past. The bus brushed his elbow leaving a burn.

   I had similar escapades.

[Kevin Mahoney]

If you follow the papers inIndia, motorcycle fatalities are very common. A typical scenario involves someone  being bumped, pushed etc in front of a bus or Lorrie and having their skull crushed like a popped zit. Unlike US papers, they have no qualms about publishing the  most gruesome pictures. I do really admire India two wheeler riders and think they are among the most highly skilled I have ever seen anywhere. Also when you think about how many miles are ridden on two wheelers in India perhaps the accident rate is not as bad as it seems.

[jeep44]

Well, I just finished my first oil change. It sounded confusing in the manuals, but in practice,was simple to do. I used a new,clean "pump" type oil can to add the oil in the timing case, and its tapered tip made squirting the oil in easy,with no oil loss. Probably the best thing I did was park the bike on a big sheet of heavy cardboard before I started-I would have made a mess of the driveway, otherwise.