[Superchuck]

So I've been riding my enfield for a year now, and have just under 5,000 miles on it.  I just this week noticed some oil on a few of the cylinder fins.  I couldn't see deep enough in there to find a serious leak, but when I looked up at the rocker covers, the rear one had oil all over it. 

Does this mean it's time to retorque my cylinder head bolts?  And where are these so-called head bolts exactly?  Or is this some other oil leak, and any ideas on how to fix it?

Lastly, is there a specific torque I should be tightening the nuts that are sticking out all over the engine?  I have no covered parking and although I wd40 my bike religiously, a few of the nuts around the engine and the exhaust pipe are showing some serious corrosion and rust.  I want to replace them with stainless nuts before this becomes a huge headache down the road.  Are these nuts torque-sensitive or is this an area where I can use my better judgement and experienced wrench hand to get that 'just right' or 'well that's good enough' tightness?

Thanks in advance,

Chuck

[Arizoni]

The amount of torque a fastener needs is tied directly to the outside diameter of the threads.

Another thing of importance is whether the threads are dry or lubricated.
Because a lubricated thread is much easier to turn the amount of torque needed is much less.

Another thing that limits the amount of torque is the material the threaded fastener is screwing into.  
Torque values are usually given with a steel to steel combination in mind.

If a steel screw is being screwed directly into an aluminum part the torque will be quite a bit less before the aluminum threads are damaged.

This link will take you to a post I made about the subject.

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,10638.0.html

There is always a big debate about whether using a torque wrench is necessary with many very experienced people saying a torque wrench is a total waste of money and time.

While I don't agree with them, I admit that I don't bother when I'm tightening screws, nuts and bolts that aren't doing important things.  Things like horn brackets, light brackets, and mud guards don't rate in the "should torque" group.

Things that are holding the engine into the frame, holding the wheels in place on the other hand should be tightened to the correct torque because if they fail some bad things can happen.
The drain plugs that screw into the aluminum crankcase and are easily stripped out by over torquing are another thing that IMO needs proper torquing and the cost of torque wrench beats replacing the threads for the drain plug. 

[tooseevee]

So I've been riding my enfield for a year now, and have just under 5,000 miles on it.  I just this week noticed some oil on a few of the cylinder fins.  I couldn't see deep enough in there to find a serious leak, but when I looked up at the rocker covers, the rear one had oil all over it. 

Does this mean it's time to retorque my cylinder head bolts?  And where are these so-called head bolts exactly? 

Thanks in advance,

Chuck

            There's Nada about head bolts in the owner's manual (of course).

             The head bolts are under the valve covers.

             Pete Snidal sez they should be retorqued (from brand new) at 250 miles, 600 miles & 1,000 miles. I've missed the 250, but will definitely do it at 600 or maybe 500. I've been faithful to break in rules & have no leaks.

              Pete sez 24 foot pounds. I recall some discussion here that 20 was better. I know because I wrote it down in the margin of my manual. I don't remember WHY. Maybe some bolts were stripping at 24.

               You almost definitely (probably) have a head gasket leak.

                I don't know what the factory manual sez. Don't have one. OR a dealer.

[tooseevee]

Lastly, is there a specific torque I should be tightening the nuts that are sticking out all over the engine? 

to replace them with stainless nuts before this becomes a huge headache down the road.  Are these nuts torque-sensitive or is this an area where I can use my better judgement and experienced wrench hand to get that 'just right' or 'well that's good enough' tightness?
Chuck

            I just trust to 60 years of "feel" except on crucial pieces of engines, transmissions, clutches, etc.. If you obsess about torquing you'll be doing nothing but obsessing about torquing. Just be specially aware of bolts into aluminum threads.

              And put a little Anti-Seize on those plug threads.   

[Superchuck]

Thanks for the replies... and Arizoni that's a great table on the linked thread.  I'll consult my Snidal's manual tonight regarding the head bolts... I have the AVL and my dealer said it's not needed at the frequent intervals as the iron barrel during the break-in period.  On a side note, I originally bought one of those 'pittsburgh' brand clicker torque wrenches from harbor freight only to have it strip the first bolt I tried it on... luckily that wasn't an important bolt and i replaced it immediately from home depot, but I definately see the importance of getting a good torque wrench if you're going to do either.  I plan on picking up one of those 'beam style' torque wrenches from sears hardware and learning the old-fashioned way.

Cheers,

chuck