Author Topic: key stuck in C5 fuse box  (Read 2420 times)

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wildbill

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on: February 02, 2012, 01:08:42 am
Yesterday was a pretty good day. In fact that good a day in two sessions i rode the bike about 85 klm in total. I now have 220 klm on the clock
Brakes are far better since the adjustments - bit springy but controllable.
I don't know why but for some reason I decided to have a look inside the LHS fuse box. Opened nicely but when time to close I couldn't get the key to release.
Got a bit of Wd4 and sprayed inside the keyed lock.
After much tugging it finally released. Sprayed the WD40 inside the keyhole and put the key in.
jammed in again. Took up the pliers and with more persuasion got the key out of the hole. Any ideas on getting this one solved.
Wasn't upset or nothing - just shook my head and walked away laughing ;D You gotta love these bikes ;)



GlennF

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Reply #1 on: February 02, 2012, 01:24:30 am
The key is not meant to come out until the lock is in the "locked" position.

My guess is for some reason (cover jamming?)  the lock is not turning quite far enough around towards "locked" and hence the key is sticking.


Arizoni

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Reply #2 on: February 02, 2012, 04:27:31 am
I don't know about the C5 but both of the side covers on my G5 are a total pita to lock or unlock.

It takes a lot more force to compress the rubber far enough to relax the tension on the locking arm than it should.

If I don't give a mighty shove I can't unlock them or fully re-lock them and, as was mentioned apparently the people at RE don't want me to loose the key when they are not fully locked.  ???

If your having problems getting the key out when the cover is just sitting in your lap it sounds like a problem with the lock.
Know any good locksmiths in your area?  ???
Jim
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1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


wildbill

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Reply #3 on: February 02, 2012, 11:32:48 am
That's a good idea so I will look into trying the locksmith tomorrow. I would definitely prefer all locks -to be keyed the same..
Mostlikely the dealer would just fit another lock.


TCP

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Reply #4 on: February 02, 2012, 01:29:16 pm
WB.

What kind of problem were you having with the brakes?

Caseman
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1969 Triumph T120R
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Marrtyn

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Reply #5 on: February 02, 2012, 05:12:40 pm
These locks are a "sod" to lock if not fully turned. Also h/book advises not to lubricate with petoleum based products or graphite.
First remove panel from bike and assertain if lock locks freely off the bike. If it does then you have to go to work on the catch etc to make sure the lock can turn fully.
 :-\
If the lock don't turn -then you have a problematic lock that needs replacing.


barenekd

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Reply #6 on: February 02, 2012, 05:54:42 pm
These locks are just crap. I've tried just about everything and nothing seems to loosen them up. I guess just shoving them in and out a few hundred times might get them to work properly.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #7 on: February 02, 2012, 06:16:33 pm


tooseevee

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Reply #8 on: February 02, 2012, 11:28:00 pm
                    I had this same problem with both sides of my '08 AVL Classic. I could not PUSH hard enough to get the turny part to grab the hooky part & turn far enough to free the key & it REALLY P&ssed me off for a while when I first got the bike.

                     I finally took my heavy duty needle nose pliers & carefully bent the ear a tiny bit. It only takes a couple of thousandths to make all the difference in the world.

                      Now it just takes a little press with the palm of my hand to fully engage the lock which then allows the key to be pulled very easily. The key Will Not come out unless the lock rotates ALL the way CCW.

                        The locking battery cover gave me grief for a while, too, but I figured it out pretty quick.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


wildbill

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Reply #9 on: February 02, 2012, 11:54:04 pm
TCP
There was too much brake fluid in the reservoir. Front disc was continuously ON and wheel was hard to spin..As soon as i applied the brake - instant contact and a savage bite.
Help from forum members solved the problem. Bleed the level to half way-removed the calliper- pushed in the pad holders -disc back on and pumped up the brake lever. Now everything is fine

Will look into the other fixes listed for the lock and see what happens.


TCP

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Reply #10 on: February 03, 2012, 12:59:34 pm
Thanks WB.

My reservoir also came full to the brim.

I have been having a bit of front wheel squealing at 10MPH down to push speed.  Maybe a bit of a brake fluid bleed would cure.

Caseman
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will keep me from riding unless I can't make bail"

1969 Triumph T120R
1972 Triumph T120R OIF
2011 Royal Enfield C5 Classic Chrome


tooseevee

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Reply #11 on: February 03, 2012, 04:49:16 pm
                   

                      Now it just takes a little press with the palm of my hand to fully engage the lock which then allows the key to be pulled very easily. The key Will Not come out unless the lock rotates ALL the way CCW.

                       

                   Woops! That, of course, should have been Clockwise, not CCW.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.