[jartist]

Be sure to let us know when you get the issue solved and what it was that did the trick!

[wildbill]

Will do. Just bleed the brakes but too wet to risk a run to try it out. Might try in the morning. What i noticed immediately - Once up on the stand i now require much more pressure on the lever to stop the front wheel spinning .
Prior to the bleed - just touch the brake lever gently and the brakes were full on!

[uRban-x]

Make sure that the break fluid does'nt come in contact with paint, and if possible attatch a small length of tubing to the bleeder nipple. 

There is a video on youtube by forum member singh5g on removal and replacement of break pads and shoes, it should help a lot.

Cheers,
Urbanx.

[barenekd]

Are you sure it's the brake dragging? If it is, you have a malfunction in hte calipers. They shouldn't be dragging when the brake is released. If you're sure that's what it is, take the Breke off the fork and push the calipers back into the body, then replace the brake and pump the brakes back up. By the way, while the brake is off, spin the wheel and see if it's free. The wheel should spin easily. If not you probably have a spacer on the axle installed wrong or missing.
Bare

[tooseevee]

Make sure that the break fluid does'nt come in contact with paint, and if possible attatch a small length of tubing to the bleeder nipple. 

There is a video on youtube by forum member singh5g on removal and replacement of break pads and shoes, it should help a lot.

Cheers,
Urbanx.

                      C'mon. They're brakes, not breaks.

[wildbill]

Latest update on the front disc. Took the bike for another run. Better on the brakes but still a bit touchy. Took the calliper off - spun the wheel. Wheel spun freely. Notice both pistons were sitting well out so i used a flat bar to roseate them back into the cavity.
Put the disc calliper back on and got the wife to spin the wheel. Free spinning!
As instructed pumped up the lever till i got good pressure on the lever. Got the wife on the bike while i spun the wheel
 wheel spin had improve by several revolutions but I could still hear the disc scraping on the pad or pads.

[wildbill]

Forgot to mention. One piston was harder to push back in than the other one.

[Arizoni]

Just my opinion but there is nothing to cause the brake pads to move away from the disk except the runout or wobble of the disk as the wheel rotates.

If the disk is properly made this runout will be almost zero causing the pads to move a very small amount away from the disk.
That will always result in some slight touching between the pads and the disk which will cause a slight scraping sound.

If your car has disk brakes it is doing the same thing.
With the tire on a car pretty much surrounded by the wheel enclosure plus with the tire noise on the road and wind noise this rubbing sound usually goes unnoticed.

On your bike, with the disk standing proud out there in the air the sound is easier to hear.  That is, it is easier to hear if the engine is not running.
Just start your engine and like magic, the slight scraping sound will vanish. 

[wildbill]

Thanks Jim.
I will give it another try tomorrow. Definitely some improvement. Just gave the wheel a quick spin - When compared prior to the bleed etc it's now spinning many more revolutions.
Just ready to take my miata out for a photo shoot. Not long ago sprayed it white and a few on the Mazdaspeed forum are keen to see the results Your help was greatly appreciated and I've found that for results Forums beat dealer anytime
Regards Graham

[uRban-x]

                      C'mon. They're brakes, not breaks.

Oops sorry.. 

[Arizoni]

Bill
Sounds like you may have fixed it.

(I know its not a RE but here's a picture of my '99 10th Anniversary