Author Topic: Removing the rear wheel...  (Read 3721 times)

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geoffbaker

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on: April 03, 2008, 03:44:55 am
I've been working on the wheels (tires, tubes, truing, brakes) in the past week, and I just want to report something I've noticed on my military, which others may or may not agree with..

When you have to take off the rear wheel, I actually find it easier to remove the entire rear assembly (mudguard, panniers, frame) than just the mudguard itself.

The first time, I got the mudguard off, no problem but replacing it took me hours of wrestling... it just did not fit well with the pannier frame!

(This could be a frame irregularity, of course, specific to my bike)

But removing two extra bolts, and taking the whole rear assembly off, I have found to be much easier and quicker... as well as less likely to damage the paint.

Just my opinion...


mbevo1

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Reply #1 on: April 03, 2008, 09:58:57 pm
Geoff -

Absolutely agree... I've read lots of posts where you can get the rear wheel off by tipping the bike to the left.  Have found it just as easy to loosen up the upper and lower bolts and tilt the whole rear assembly up (not hard with a solo saddle) or just remove the whole thing and get it out of the way.  Gives me a chance to get in and remove the mud/bugs/dust/oil on all those bits I can't get at when its all together, too.

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dsdreno

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Reply #2 on: May 09, 2008, 06:42:25 am
this way is easier. get yourself a 2x4 piece wood about 20 inches long .lay it under the center stand.the 2x4 will raise the bike back wheel high enough.


cyrusb

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Reply #3 on: May 09, 2008, 02:40:45 pm
It looks like removing the whole thing is what they had in mind. They made the strut attachment points slotted for quick removal. But  my E model with the stock seat its still faster to either tip it or use the 2 by four.
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clamp

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Reply #4 on: May 12, 2008, 01:34:16 am
I couldnt understand what you guys where on about ,--difficulty in removing the rear wheel?????

   I looked at it yesterday and I know now what you are talking about.  Mine too has some quick release type nuts on the guard rail but it looks like the seat will have to come off ---or up.   Maybe i should look in the hand book.
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Vince

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Reply #5 on: May 12, 2008, 05:12:11 pm
     Use the wood under the center stand trick. It does work great. Just make sure you use a wheel stop in front of the front wheel so the bike won't roll off the stand.


clamp

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Reply #6 on: May 13, 2008, 02:27:11 am
The wood under the centre stand is ok if you are on your own and no idiot will lean on the seat!!.

      I havnt tried it yet but on my 1400 suzuki intruder I dont have a centre stand but removing the rear wheel is easy if I use the side stand and jack up at the rear under the swinging arm say.  This gives the hieght and the angle,  and its reasonably safe.

     
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dsdreno

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Reply #7 on: May 14, 2008, 12:22:26 am
I enjoyed the comments. I been using 2x4 method for closed to 30 years and it works for many bikes.