[tooseevee]

  Well, I've replaced the huge can on my '08 AVL Classic with one that actually allows me to tell when the engine's running.

  Now I'm on to simplifying & freeing up the intake. There are no dimensions on the  cone filters in EnfieldParts so I found a 3"x3" cone K&N (RC-2310) with a 40mm flange. Haven't ordered it yet. This should be plenty large a surface area of intake, right?

  Next is jets for the MacCarb BS-29. There's very little info out there on this carb, but Pete Snidal's manual covers it pretty well.

  I have the next larger Pilot jet from the stock 15 (17.5). The others don't seem to be available (Stock Main is 110 & Needle I don't know). I'm not going to be able to run this engine (safely) with the modded exhaust AND intake until I find jets. Any clues or suggestions? The Enfield Parts book & online descriptions are pretty confusing & incomplete as far as sizes & what fits what when it comes to all things carburetor & intake.

   Is the Pilot jet also called the idle jet on these carbs? Are they the same jet? There's just Pilot, Main & Needle in these carbs, right?

[barenekd]

   Is the Pilot jet also called the idle jet on these carbs? Are they the same jet? There's just Pilot, Main & Needle in these carbs, right?

Right!
As far the rest of the stuff that goes on there, far too complicated and generalized for me to walk into.
Bare

[tooseevee]

Right!
As far the rest of the stuff that goes on there, far too complicated and generalized for me to walk into.
Bare

        Hey,
              Thanks for the quick answer on my Pilot/Idle jet question. I had kinda reasoned out that they're the same jet with different names from the exploded views of the carb & from the catalogs, but it's nice to have confirmation.

              It's making me nuts that I can't find Main & Needle jets. I've seen what lean can do the the tops of aluminum pistons. If I can't find jets, I'm going to have to leave the intake alone.

               And it sounds SO good now with the Sportster muffler mounted that I HAVE to do the intake, too.

               I've seen pictures of these engines with these carbs with filters directly on the carb so I know it's being done.

                Ah, well. They say patience is a virtue......& I have many miles of break-in time left to do anyway (It's at 310 now). Barely out of the womb.

               

[The Garbone]

I buy my jets at the local JapCo motorcycle shop.  They have to dust off the box but they have them.  Ebay also works.

[tooseevee]

I buy my jets at the local JapCo motorcycle shop.  They have to dust off the box but they have them.  Ebay also works.

           For the Mic carb BS-29?

           I'm gonna run to ebay right now & see what happens. My "local" Japbike store is 20 miles away.

[The Garbone]

Just search "jets" on fleabay..


Good thread

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,7604.0.html

[tooseevee]

Just search "jets" on fleabay..

             You get nothing searching just "jets" but 3,000 football & jet airplane references.

              Searching a dozen different ways brought up no carb jets. I did get 300 pictures of the same carb rebuild kit, though, and some Mikuni flat slides & jet cleaning tools.

                Ace's comments from your link helped. It looks like the Main jets are actual Mikuni jets so I can get them from my JapBike store. The Needle jets I will have to wait for CMW to have back in stock. 

[tooseevee]

Just search "jets" on fleabay..

             You get nothing searching just "jets" but 3,000 football & jet airplane references.

              Searching a dozen different ways brought up no carb jets. I did get 300 pictures of the same carb rebuild kit, though, and some Mikuni flat slides & jet cleaning tools.

                Ace's comments from your link helped. It looks like the Main jets are actual Mikuni jets so I can get them from my JapBike store. The Needle jets I will have to wait for CMW to have back in stock. 

                   Looks like I quoted that incorrectly.

                   Sorry

[The Garbone]

When I log on to ebay it automatically puts me in Ebay Motors so I don't get football stuff.

[tooseevee]

When I log on to ebay it automatically puts me in Ebay Motors so I don't get football stuff.

             Good show!

              Learned a lot.

              I found two 112.5 Mikuni Main jets:

                      N100.604/112.5
                      N102.221/112.5
               
                Shipping is around $8 so I won't order it online. I will take the 110 Main Jet out of this BS-29 & take it in my grubby little fingers to my local JapBike store & match it up. I will just have to wait for CMW to get the Needle jets back in stock.

                 I'm almost talking myself into a Mikuni Flat Slide, but I just don't think I want to pay what CMW wants me to + shipping.

[tooseevee]

  Why can't you find a service manual online for this @#%& bloody BS-29 Micarb? There isn't anything useful about this carb anywhere. I even emailed CMW over a week ago & THEY don't seem to want to talk about either. No answer.

   I've dropped the float bowl again & pulled the Pilot jet, the Main jet & & Main jet holder with its little O-Ring. Where the hell is the Needle Jet? (in Pete Snidal's manual Page 180 Part #15). Do you have to go in from the top? 

[tooseevee]

  Why can't you find a service manual online for this @#%& bloody BS-29 Micarb? There isn't anything useful about this carb anywhere. I even emailed CMW over a week ago & THEY don't seem to want to talk about either. No answer.

   I've dropped the float bowl again & pulled the Pilot jet, the Main jet & & Main jet holder with its little O-Ring. Where the hell is the Needle Jet? (in Pete Snidal's manual Page 180 Part #15). Do you have to go in from the top? 

             Just a little update (it's not too busy on the forum today):

              I got the seat & left side case off & set aside. Then finally got the evil black can out & gone & all the hoses loose. Dealing with all the hoses now. Used the duckbill from the can on the crankcase breather hose with a double male fitting & have a nice high loop in the hose.

               BTW Have gotten great help & advice from Kevin M. at CMW. Thanks, Kevin.

               I've removed ALL of the Pulse Air stuff. Have to find a cap for the cylinder inlet hole fitting. (The stock muffler is gone).

                All the hoses & filter gone from the air filter case. I can carry a sammich in there now. K&N RC-2310 cone filter on order. Collector box between air filter & carb gone. And the brackets. Still need Main Jets.     

                   Onward & upward. Less is more.         
               

[tooseevee]

       Decided to play carburetor today after getting super advice from my old buddy the Parts Guy at the Jap Bike Store. He recommends ONLY changing the height of the Needle 1/2 a notch as a first step toward richening after freeing up my intake & exhaust & leave the Pilot & Main stock. Try that for a while & if necessary, raise the needle a full notch.

         So - pull carb off, replace Jet holder, main jet & pilot, replace float bowl. Pull top cap & then round slide with needle & find that these insidious bastards have made the "Special" Phillips screws that hold the needle in "Tighten Only". The screwdriver just spins around freely CCW.

         Any suggestions ? I don't think ANY of these parts are available (BS-29). This could be a dilemma (read nightmare).

[tooseevee]

     Well, today the saga of the BS-29 continues. I'm getting the feeling that noone but me has had one of these apart down to the needle level? I'm seeing no feedback or comments.

       So today I went over to a buddy's place who has more implements of destruction  & a small bench vice. We got the two precious "Special Phillips Screws" loose that hold the Needle Holder in place.

        I found that the insidious bastards (mentioned previously) contructed the needle in such a way (to please California, I'm sure) that the three grooves are covered by a pressed-on rigid plastic collar. This plastic collar also has a locating pin that mates with a hole in the slide making it impossible to add a shim (richening by one shim) without grinding the pin off.

         After worrying it to death for three hours & thinking about various ways to get even with the Feds, I bit the bullet & ground the pin off. Everything is now reassembled with the needle raised one shim (Standard Mikuni Needle Shim). The Pilot & Main will remain stock for now.

           The K&N cone filter (RC-2310) is also installed. Very tight fit, but that's OK. Actual O.D. of carb is almost 42mm. Actual I.D. of filter is 40mm.

            I'll get the whole thing back together over the next few days & kick it over. Grinding that pin off may have blown the whole carb off the chart. In that case it just won't run at all. I can't see why it matters if the needle can rotate. The pin may be there to PREVENT the addition of a shim. We shall see.       

[The Garbone]

PWK-30

[tooseevee]

PWK-30

                      Ya' know, I've read a lot of good things about that carb both on this forum & online at other sites where they go on & on about stuff like we do here.

                        BUT - I really want to fool around with this UCAL Mikuni as much as I can & see what I can get it to do In Spite of the Federal Government (in all their wisdom).

                        The PWK-30 is definitely on the list if the BS-29 is triumphant in its Federalness & defeats my attempts at not being controlled or dictated to. They already have way too many fingers up my various orifices as it is.   

[tooseevee]

            Well, today I proved to myself that if you do enough research, pick enough persons' brains, stare at things long enough & have an exploded view of the bits & pieces on paper & also in your brain of how the bloody thing works, you can attack an insidiously bastardized & Federalized carburetor with a Dremel tool & win.

              Bottom line is I ground off the needle locating (shim-preventing) pin leaving it the same height as the nub that kept the needle from totally bottoming out in the needle jet. I then reasembled it with one standard Mikuni shim under the hard plastic ring that covers the normal three grooves. The hardest part was getting the needle holder screws in. You must have a magnetic screwdriver & steady fingers.

                Then I threw it all at the bike with a new gas hose. So now I have the carb one shim richer at the needle. Stock Pilot. Stock Main. K&N cone filter & Sportster muffler. Crankcase breather duck-billed & timing case breather just run to the atmosphere. Same for the chaincase breather.

                 It started right up second kick just like it did before. It sounds fine. Revs fine. Idles fine. At least I know now that I have taken back complete control of the carb from the Federal government & can do anything I want to with it & it'll still work. I started it up 3 or 4 different times over the afternoon. It starts first or second kick every time. I didn't take it out. Too late, too cold, & It's way too easy to get killed during the hour before sunset. You are more invisible then than you normally are.

[tooseevee]

                 Could I get some comments from people who have actually installed PWK-30 carburetors (Garbone?) on AVLs? I'm starting to plan a plan for if I never get this Federally-butchered BS-29 Mikuni to run properly.

                   Also some suggestions from people who have installed aftermarket CV carbs (like the Mikuni CV that's ON the bike, but with ADJUSTability!) would be appreciated.

                   The initial mods I've made to this Federally buggered up needle height adjustment mechanism have not worked out so far. The bike kickstarts & runs fine in the garage (Hot OR Cold), but on the road, I run out of gas (that's what it feels like) at about 3/4 of the way to where I usually shift in every gear. I may have an unfixable nightmare on my hands & I can't see why what I have done (raising the needle) would cause this result. I haven't thought about the physics of it enough yet. Maybe I just have to go up another shim. Who knows?

                     (I've changed nothing but needle height. Main same. Pilot same. Mixture 1 & 1/2 turns out. Original fuel line. Idles like a watch, plug is dry).

                     I have a few more tricks in mind before I give up, but I will only pull this bastard off & put it back on so many times before I find out how far I can throw it into the woods behind my house hoping I hit one of the people who forced the buggering up of a perfectly good, owner-adjustable carburetor. I'm sick to death of this government treating us like children. Get out of my life!   

[The Garbone]

Mever fiddled with a CV carb but I do know the that I love my PWK on my irons..    I would guess the jetting sizes might be different on a AVL but the basic good design of the carb would help.   

It might be that your 28mm carb is fine but just too small to deliver what you want from it performance wise..  With the 30mm my bikes pull like mules,  and now that its cooled off a bit (50s in the morning here) its even better since I run mine on the rich side in the summer.   Yesterday I was ringing my 07's neck on the way to work and looked down at the speedo to realise I was going 65 in a 45..  Oppps... Just a nice strong smooth pull...  With the 28mm stock carb with better jets my bike ran fine and I thought the top end suck was just due to the bike being a 500 but it was the carb.

[tooseevee]

Mever fiddled with a CV carb but I do know the that I love my PWK on my irons..    I would guess the jetting sizes might be different on a AVL but the basic good design of the carb would help.   

It might be that your 28mm carb is fine but just too small to deliver what you want from it performance wise..  With the 30mm my bikes pull like mules,  and now that its cooled off a bit (50s in the morning here) its even better since I run mine on the rich side in the summer.   Yesterday I was ringing my 07's neck on the way to work and looked down at the speedo to realise I was going 65 in a 45..  Oppps... Just a nice strong smooth pull...  With the 28mm stock carb with better jets my bike ran fine and I thought the top end suck was just due to the bike being a 500 but it was the carb.

            C'mon now. If you've been reading my posts, you'd know that I never had a problem with the "power" with the stock UCAL Mikuni BS-29 installed on the AVL. The problem is that the carb's been buggered by the government so you can't get it to run if you install a free-flowing exhaust & a K&N on the intake. You get way too much air & the needle adjustment has been buggered by the government to the point that you just might as well go ahead & get a PWK-30 for a hundred bucks & be done with it. They've buggered the needle of the BS-29 (& probably the needle jet also) so bad that I might have to take the carb off & put it back on about 40 times & maybe NEVER get it right.

              All I want is a carb that *I* can dial in MYSELF. The Feds have prevented that in the UCAL Mikuni BS-29.

               And I've never been even close to running on the Main Jet with the stock carb yet. I'm still on break-in & haven't even been in 5th gear yet. Still running on the needle.

[The Garbone]

I really don't understand what this is all about then..

No carb will ever be perfect,  they all compromise on area of performance for another.  I imagine tunability is a function of price and I am sure the stock carb was not the most expensive option for the manufaturer..

[tooseevee]

I really don't understand what this is all about then..

No carb will ever be perfect,  they all compromise on area of performance for another.  I imagine tunability is a function of price and I am sure the stock carb was not the most expensive option for the manufaturer..

            You'd understand quite easily if you could see this carb apart like I have.

             I don't think price was primary. What was primary was getting the '08s approved for California before the UCE & fuel injection were perfected & approved. They came up with this carb to run on the barest minimum of fuel. AND they made it so the knowledgable tuner can't readily adjust the needle.

              Even the Phillips heads on the needle holder are just about impossible to turn CCW. Plus they put a sneaky little pin in (& an extra hole in the slide) that prevents the use of shims. Plus you have no clue how the Needle Jet is modified for the special needle so you have no base line to start from. And the part # stamped in the needle gets you nowhere.

               At least if I get the PKW-30 (for Christmas?), I know exactly where I'm starting from & can go by the numbers, in order, and get it dialed in. 

[GreenMachine]

well it looks like they were successful in preventing you from modifying/changing the characteristics of your cv carb....I'm not surprise to see that it was setup for a greener environment especially on the west coast...At least u can get the  pkw-30 and get the performance you are desiring vice mangling up the carb that for intent and purpose unchangeable...

[wizzingtar25]

@ tooseevee - been reading up on the posts b/w you and The Garbone. I have the same BS29 on my Machismo 500 AVL with the same K&N you mentioned with the all the stock jets. My mechanic told me that i need to have the carb rejet (main and pilot) and then get a freer flowing exhaust system (goldstar) installed to really get the smooth pull (in all throttle opening stages) and power that i wanted from the mod. You seem to be just trying to adjust the needle height to bring about this. So basically im confused and feel out of my depth. Could you weigh in and confirm (to the best of your knowledge) whether I do indeed need to rejet the carb or just go your route. Any info on cause and effect on both solutions would be a bonus. Also what is your progress on the pilot? I live in India and want to get as much info on this from reliable sources before getting too ordering online..

[tooseevee]

@ tooseevee - been reading up on the posts b/w you and The Garbone. I have the same BS29 on my Machismo 500 AVL with the same K&N you mentioned with the all the stock jets. My mechanic told me that i need to have the carb rejet (main and pilot) and then get a freer flowing exhaust system (goldstar) installed to really get the smooth pull (in all throttle opening stages) and power that i wanted from the mod. You seem to be just trying to adjust the needle height to bring about this. So basically im confused and feel out of my depth. Could you weigh in and confirm (to the best of your knowledge) whether I do indeed need to rejet the carb or just go your route. Any info on cause and effect on both solutions would be a bonus. Also what is your progress on the pilot? I live in India and want to get as much info on this from reliable sources before getting too ordering online..

              I can't give you any definitive advice yet because I am still in the middle of figuring things out because it's Winter here & that limits my rides plus my bike isn't even broken in yet (330 miles); you can't determine main jet problems until you can run wide open throttle. I would also advise you NOT to do anything to the carb until you have done BOTH the K&N AND the muffler change. Otherwise you may have to do the carb dialing-in twice.

              Here's all I have figured out so far:

                  (1) The engine would just barely run after I changed the intake & exhaust with the carb left stock. It ran out of throttle at about 1/3 in every gear. Just like running out of gas.

                   (2) I raised the needle height one Mikuni shim (Pilot & Main left stock). It ran "better", but still ran out of throttle way before the 1/2 or 2/3 full throttle where I wanted to shift (remember, I'm still on break-in).

                   (3) I raised the needle height one more shim. Amazing difference! I can now get good pull up to the 2/3 throttle I'm sticking to for break-in. At least now I know that I can get somewhere with this carb in time. I had my doubts at the start. The Pilot & Main are still stock & my mixture screw is just shy of 1.5 turns out. It kickstarts when cold 2nd or 3rd kick every time (1st kick when warm) & idles like a watch. Throttle response is immediate & smooth. 

                    I think the stock Pilot is going to be OK because I get a fine idle at 1.5 turns out on the mixture & it's never shown any signs of trying to die at stop signs, etc...

                    I can't know about Main Jet until I can go WOT.

                    If I understand these carbs right (& I'm no expert) you play with needle height first. As I understand it, needle height is what matters for most of our riding & Main Jet only comes into play at WOT.

                     If you get a good idle at around 1.5 turns out on the Mixture screw, then your Pilot jet is OK.   

                    That's all I can say for now. It will be a while before I can see if I need a one size larger Main Jet. I am nowhere near being on the Main Jet yet (I haven't even been in 5th yet). I'm running on the needle & probably will be this whole coming riding season. I no longer pile up mileage like I used to.

                      I hope this has made sense & I hope I get some comments from those who REALLY know what they're talking about. I'm still learning.   

                      PS: I have left the plastic collar on the needle. The two shims are under the plastic collar. The plastic collar on this carb's needle prevents the use of an E-clip in the height grooves. To use an E-clip to adjust needle height, you would need to break the plastic collar off. I will not do this unless I find I NEED to at some later date. 

                       

[boggy]

I run the pwk 30 flat slide on my AVL.  It has taken me a LOOOONG time to get it jetted correctly. I'm using the RE sourced Megaphone exhaust. 

The few of us with them on AVLs seem to report a little boost in power, at the cost of MPG.  I'm running about 55mpg, although I admittedly have some good 5th gear stretches on my daily commute.

The jets it comes with are not even close.  I've almost all but thrown in the towel although I've seemed to get it into shape last fall.  You have to pull the carb to swap all but the main jet and needle so it can be time consuming to jet.

I think I'm running a 125 main. 38 pilot. Needle in the top slot.

I'm gonna see how the spring goes but I'm really close to buying a Mikuni.  This is what Ace had to say on a related thread:

"I have plenty of experience with the Mikuni TM32 flat slide, and can help you alot better with tuning that carb. And that is one helluva carb, too. And it is not very expensive."

I don't think whatever power I'm getting has been worth the trouble. Like I said, just got it balanced so we'll see how things go in April, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend the PWK 30 on the AVL.

Good luck.
Boggy

[tooseevee]

I run the pwk 30 flat slide on my AVL.  It has taken me a LOOOONG time to get it jetted correctly. I'm using the RE sourced Megaphone exhaust. 

The few of us with them on AVLs seem to report a little boost in power, at the cost of MPG.  I'm running about 55mpg, although I admittedly have some good 5th gear stretches on my daily commute.

The jets it comes with are not even close.  I've almost all but thrown in the towel although I've seemed to get it into shape last fall.  You have to pull the carb to swap all but the main jet and needle so it can be time consuming to jet.

I think I'm running a 125 main. 38 pilot. Needle in the top slot.

I'm gonna see how the spring goes but I'm really close to buying a Mikuni.  This is what Ace had to say on a related thread:

"I have plenty of experience with the Mikuni TM32 flat slide, and can help you alot better with tuning that carb. And that is one helluva carb, too. And it is not very expensive."

I don't think whatever power I'm getting has been worth the trouble. Like I said, just got it balanced so we'll see how things go in April, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend the PWK 30 on the AVL.

Good luck.
Boggy

             Thanks for the input. Sounds like you're in the same place with your PWK as I am with this Mikuni BS-29. Still feeling things out & our way through. Like you, I will learn more in April, May & June. But believe me, I am WAY ahead of where I was when I started this whole process in the late Fall & I sort of have the feeling now that for my kind of old fogey, 74 year old riding, this Mikuni BS-29 is going to work out just fine. Plus a CV is better for me as they show less tendency to try to die on you at idle in the wrong places at the wrong time with temperature variations. It's exactly what you DO NOT need in situations like when making a slow speed left turn in traffic. The old cough & die will get you runded over ;>)

[wizzingtar25]

              I can't give you any definitive advice yet because I am still in the middle of figuring things out because it's Winter here & that limits my rides plus my bike isn't even broken in yet (330 miles); you can't determine main jet problems until you can run wide open throttle. I would also advise you NOT to do anything to the carb until you have done BOTH the K&N AND the muffler change. Otherwise you may have to do the carb dialing-in twice.

              Here's all I have figured out so far:

                  (1) The engine would just barely run after I changed the intake & exhaust with the carb left stock. It ran out of throttle at about 1/3 in every gear. Just like running out of gas.

                   (2) I raised the needle height one Mikuni shim (Pilot & Main left stock). It ran "better", but still ran out of throttle way before the 1/2 or 2/3 full throttle where I wanted to shift (remember, I'm still on break-in).

                   (3) I raised the needle height one more shim. Amazing difference! I can now get good pull up to the 2/3 throttle I'm sticking to for break-in. At least now I know that I can get somewhere with this carb in time. I had my doubts at the start. The Pilot & Main are still stock & my mixture screw is just shy of 1.5 turns out. It kickstarts when cold 2nd or 3rd kick every time (1st kick when warm) & idles like a watch. Throttle response is immediate & smooth. 

                    I think the stock Pilot is going to be OK because I get a fine idle at 1.5 turns out on the mixture & it's never shown any signs of trying to die at stop signs, etc...

                    I can't know about Main Jet until I can go WOT.

                    If I understand these carbs right (& I'm no expert) you play with needle height first. As I understand it, needle height is what matters for most of our riding & Main Jet only comes into play at WOT.

                     If you get a good idle at around 1.5 turns out on the Mixture screw, then your Pilot jet is OK.   

                    That's all I can say for now. It will be a while before I can see if I need a one size larger Main Jet. I am nowhere near being on the Main Jet yet (I haven't even been in 5th yet). I'm running on the needle & probably will be this whole coming riding season. I no longer pile up mileage like I used to.

                      I hope this has made sense & I hope I get some comments from those who REALLY know what they're talking about. I'm still learning.   

                      PS: I have left the plastic collar on the needle. The two shims are under the plastic collar. The plastic collar on this carb's needle prevents the use of an E-clip in the height grooves. To use an E-clip to adjust needle height, you would need to break the plastic collar off. I will not do this unless I find I NEED to at some later date. 

                       

Thanks for your prompt reply. Currently the carb has been left stock with the only change being the K&N that has been installed. Since my ride had been run in before the carb change I was able to test the bike at all throtle opening stages. on the first test ride i foundt the bike gasping (like it was running outta gas) at under 1/2 throttle opening and through the other that follow. I took it back and my mech enriched the mixture which brought me to where I am now. The problems I now face are-

1. When she is started for the first time in the morning and the engine is still relatively cold I run out of throttle before the ideal rev for changing is reached. This however changes once ive run her for about 3-4kms and opened her up (atleast to 3/4) in whichever gear she is in. After this she pretty much pulls long and smooth. If I have taken her out for a midnight spin the night before, she opens up and smooths out pretty quick in the morning.

2. Once running with a warm engine the only gasping faced is between 40-60kmph then again smooth all the way to 120kmph.

3. On my last short ride outside city limits (this was at night with temperature @ about 3-4 degrees Celsius, terrain being hills valleys on 2 lane state highways) she felt like she was running out of steam. Now I am comparing the above ride power delivery quality with my daily ride (after a cold start and warming her up after the first 4kms).

Although I am fortunate to be able to ride my bike contently everyday (I do about 40kms on average daily she is my primary mode of transportation) I feel that the power delivery would be far smoother if I can get the new exhaust and tweak the carb tuning if not re-jet her.. My confusion lies in that, you advise against re-jetting until I install the new exhaust where as pretty much everyone I have spoken too, my mechanic included advised the opposite. they've said until I have re-jetting the carb to allow more petrol for mixing I should not have the exhaust changed,  im guessing coz the leanness of the mixture could ruin my piston head. 
Here is a link to an exchange I had with a fellow rider who had moved back to stock from the mod we are discussing (albeit hes riding a 350cc), tell me what you make of it - http://www.yogeshsarkar.com/blog/2009/06/18/kind-royal-enfield-bullet-would-like-buy/

Any feedback from you is welcome, im sure the back and forth will be mutually beneficial.
Cheers,

[tooseevee]

Thanks for your prompt reply. Currently the carb has been left stock with the only change being the K&N that has been installed. Since my ride had been run in before the carb change I was able to test the bike at all throtle opening stages. on the first test ride i foundt the bike gasping (like it was running outta gas) at under 1/2 throttle opening and through the other that follow. I took it back and my mech enriched the mixture which brought me to where I am now. The problems I now face are-

1. When she is started for the first time in the morning and the engine is still relatively cold I run out of throttle before the ideal rev for changing is reached. This however changes once ive run her for about 3-4kms and opened her up (atleast to 3/4) in whichever gear she is in. After this she pretty much pulls long and smooth. If I have taken her out for a midnight spin the night before, she opens up and smooths out pretty quick in the morning.

2. Once running with a warm engine the only gasping faced is between 40-60kmph then again smooth all the way to 120kmph.

3. On my last short ride outside city limits (this was at night with temperature @ about 3-4 degrees Celsius, terrain being hills valleys on 2 lane state highways) she felt like she was running out of steam. Now I am comparing the above ride power delivery quality with my daily ride (after a cold start and warming her up after the first 4kms).

Although I am fortunate to be able to ride my bike contently everyday (I do about 40kms on average daily she is my primary mode of transportation) I feel that the power delivery would be far smoother if I can get the new exhaust and tweak the carb tuning if not re-jet her.. My confusion lies in that, you advise against re-jetting until I install the new exhaust where as pretty much everyone I have spoken too, my mechanic included advised the opposite. they've said until I have re-jetting the carb to allow more petrol for mixing I should not have the exhaust changed,  im guessing coz the leanness of the mixture could ruin my piston head. 
Here is a link to an exchange I had with a fellow rider who had moved back to stock from the mod we are discussing (albeit hes riding a 350cc), tell me what you make of it - http://www.yogeshsarkar.com/blog/2009/06/18/kind-royal-enfield-bullet-would-like-buy/

Any feedback from you is welcome, im sure the back and forth will be mutually beneficial.
Cheers,

               I try to stay away from "blogs". There's usually more BS & emotion than there are facts or useful information. What the hell does a discussion of harley versus Enfield mean or prove? They are apples & oranges. You can't COMPARE or CONTRAST them on ANY level. That's why I stay away from blogs. That's just me.

               Here's my gut feeling from your comments above:

                  (1) You're running lean (& running out of throttle) because your engine is getting too much air (K&N) & your mechanic can't fix that with the mixture screw. You have to lift the needle some increment & test what happens & go from there. The mixture screw has nothing to do with anything above idle. It's the NEEDLE HEIGHT that matters from just off-idle to at least 3/4 throttle.

                    (2) If you are NOT going to put on another exhaust & are going to ride a lot then go ahead & do your carb dialing in with the stock exhaust. Don't run it a lot out on the road with it running lean.

                     (3) If you ARE going to change the exhaust, then DO IT. THEN dial in the carb for the K&N AND the new exhaust at the same time. If you dial in the carb to just the K&N with stock muffler, you may have to do it all over again when you change the exhaust. 

                      Another thing: You may not have to "re-jet" at all. You may only have to lift the needle. And you may have to play with this two or three times until you're engine pulls strong & smooth from idle to 3/4 or 7/8 throttle ALL the time.

                        Then and only then do you go for your WOT tests which will show you if you need to go up one size on your Main Jet.

                        Dialing in a carb is never a "painless" project. It takes patience, stubbornness & sometimes hair-pulling.  You must fight the urge to smash the carb with a sledge hammer