[Superchuck]

Quick question:  I can't find my anti-seize packets.  Is it just as good to put a little bit of oil on the spark plug threads when replacing plugs?  I don't want it to get stuck as I've heard the horrors, but it seems to me that oil would be fine... does anyone know otherwise?

Thanks in advance!

Chuck

[barenekd]

Oils will carbonize and your plug will be stuck. IF you can't find the anti-sieze, just put it in dry.
Bare

[Lwt Big Cheese]

I have never put anything on any plug.

But then I'm no expert! 

[The Garbone]

Bought a big tube of antiseize and use it to lube my axles as well as my plugs. Makes removal easier..

   Oh,  that just sounds wrong..

[Lwt Big Cheese]

Doesn't K-Y just wash off in the first shower?   

[Superchuck]

Hahah thanks for the comic relief- and thanks for the heads-up about not using oil!  heading out for some anti-seize after work!

Cheers,

Chuck

[boggy]

Bah... you'll foul a plug long before one can seize up in there 

[Arizoni]

Superchuck:

When you apply the anti-seize just put a very small drop on the threads.

It is non-conductive so you don't want it to get up on the gasket sealing surfaces.

If these sealing surfaces (the one on the plug and both sides of  the gasket) are clean they will provide the conductive path.

[bob bezin]

+ 1  big cheese just dont crank em in there with all your might.

[tooseevee]

Just thought I'd mention this for shits & giggles: Another good reason for using anti-seize is to minimize wear of the aluminum threads in the head by the steel threads of the plug. Look at the plug threads under a microscope; you'll see what I mean. This is why Time-Sert & Heli-Coil are such successful products.

[Superchuck]

Picked up some anti-seize today, thanks for the additional advice-  first time I changed the plugs in my car I globbed on a ton of that stuff and smelled it burning off for miles down the road.  Thanks for not letting me repeat that with the ennie.  Sounds good to take it easy with anything big and aluminum and integral to your bike...  also cause those would be on the expensive side to replace.

Thanks again,

Chuck

[DNash]

Superchuck:

When you apply the anti-seize just put a very small drop on the threads.

It is non-conductive so you don't want it to get up on the gasket sealing surfaces.

If these sealing surfaces (the one on the plug and both sides of  the gasket) are clean they will provide the conductive path.

There's a copper anti-seize paste that's (at least supposed to be) conductive. Would that work well in this application?

[tooseevee]

There's a copper anti-seize paste that's (at least supposed to be) conductive. Would that work well in this application?

           Copper or aluminum - both are OK. You just don't need to slather a whole bunch on. You just need to barely fill the threads. I roll the threads round & round on my finger until there's almost none left. In all my life I've never had a conductivity to ground problem. Don't overthink it. I've got a tube that has to be over 22 years old & there's still a lot left. I know because I brought it to this house with me 22 years ago.

[Maturin]

Don´t apply anything but sense and sensibility 
Cheepest solution: don´t scew the plug in until water leaks out of it. Clean the thread with a copper brush before and you´ll be fine. Best regards

[Superchuck]

Yeah if I didn't mess up the car's plugs when I did them totally uneducatedly about two years ago then it seems like a no-brainer.  good to know the proper technique though.  after all, that's why i'm here. 

chuck

[REpozer]

Anti seize University