Author Topic: Remove catch-can form an Electra  (Read 32627 times)

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D the D

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Reply #45 on: August 15, 2013, 08:56:33 pm
Your "T" with a screen on top is just duplicating what the can is supposed to do.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


Techmaven

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Reply #46 on: August 16, 2013, 12:32:38 am
His problem isn't wet sumping.
Oh yeah, like REpozer said, don't try to keep it higher than half full on the dipstick.  It just spits the oil out.

Well then what was the original reason for making changes to his breather system?


Superchuck

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Reply #47 on: August 16, 2013, 12:36:44 am
Ah, I see.  But to get rid of the catch can and only use the T with screen in conjunction with a PCV valve would probably spew oil right out the screen?  Seems like that kind of setup would be similar to my current issue. 

BTW I rigged the catch can back to original location and I'm running the CC hose and Timing Case hose to it.  Top blowoff tube is open and routed to the rear of the bike.  It doesn't seem to be spewing anything so I'll probably shorten the run, or send it right under the bike.

With the catch can setup as I currently do, is there still merit to running the crank case hose straight up to the carb then back over, or is it just as good to have it do the 90 degree bend right out of the crank case?

PS just read this last response... I got rid of my stock catch can initially with the desire to strip down and simplify my bike.  I got rid of the stock airbox, so it seemed natural to do something with the catch can since it no longer had a place to go, and I was experiencing wetness in the stock airbox.

Cheers,

Chuck


D the D

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Reply #48 on: August 16, 2013, 02:44:46 am
This is one of those RE things that some people have a problem with and some don't.  Those who don't have no need to worry.  There's no point in trying to fix something that's not broke.
However, I had the same problem and solved it by doing as ACE suggested.  Others have just run the tube from the oil tank straight up then over to the can, just turning it around, and that solved their problem.
I kept getting mayonnaise in my can so eliminated it entirely and added the Krankvent to cause a slight vacuum in the crankcase.   That fixed mine.
Still others have reverted to the old style system with the breather on the side of the crankcase and no can.  Sort of like asking how to make your wife happy, they're all different.  :)
I first asked ACE about it when an older fellow with a '60s Triumph told me to put a PCV valve for a Toyota in line and replace it every year.  He suggested Krankvent which I balked at because of the price.  But it was worth it to me.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


tooseevee

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Reply #49 on: August 16, 2013, 01:25:51 pm

PS just read this last response... I got rid of my stock catch can initially with the desire to strip down and simplify my bike.  I got rid of the stock airbox, so it seemed natural to do something with the catch can since it no longer had a place to go, and I was experiencing wetness in the stock airbox.
Cheers,
Chuck

            Mine blew oil into the airbox ONCE (spring of 2011, bike was brand new) soaked the air filter & dripped through the hinge & all over the giant muffler & the rear of the bike. I immediately tore all the hoses & cans & tubes off, put & K&N filter right on the carb & rerouted the CC breather hose into the empty air filter case as I've talked about here before. Zero problems since then. No oil spewing anywhere. At most I get a slight oil mist out of the duckbill. I haven't even had to change the old pair of underwear I stuck in there; not a skidmark on them  ;)

     For me simplicity is always the goal. I'm gonna work on a battery inside that right side case next & do away with that huge battery & the holder & everything. I don't like the way the battery cover fits & it hurts my hands getting it off & back on.  Besides, I never use the starter & never ride at night. The battery in the harley is 1/2 the size of the RE battery.     
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


Superchuck

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Reply #50 on: August 16, 2013, 07:37:12 pm
Good to hear Gentlemen,

I may try the PCV valve as a cheap 'trial' of what the krankvent would be like.  For now, my pseudostock setup is working fine. 

tooseevee, I should be getting a new (small) battery delivered in an hour or so (as soon as Fedex gets here, if they arrive before 5 when I leave).  I opted for a tiny dirtbike battery since my machine is kick-only at the moment (broken solenoid).  I'll let you know how it turns out for me.  Cost about 10 bucks, with 10 bucks for shipping.  best part is that is's only about an inch and a half thick, so I can tuck it up under the seat or something out of the way.


mattjohnson207

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Reply #51 on: August 16, 2013, 09:02:34 pm
Hi super chuck...think your PVC Fix might work, in the same location as the krankvent.  I bought the Bunn breather, again, A hundred bucks,  it still burped oil.  My solution was to buy some window screen, roll it up like a cigarette , stuff it in the tube just above the nipple.   At the timing case nipple, I had a hose about 2 feet long, with a cheap little filter. It was the intake. To test it you blow air through the hose into the timing case nipple, and the air comes out at the  crank case nipple, up through your PCVvalve over the frame under the seat.
     You will have to experiment with the amount of window screen cigarette " baffle" to use in the hose to prevent oil burping through your PCV valve. Up under the seat and out wherever
      Search " crankcase breather, June 13 , 2012, put up a couple pics.
       It worked good , but last week I got out my drill ....just had to do it...the old style breather...pics next week
          Matt


mattjohnson207

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Reply #52 on: August 16, 2013, 09:31:47 pm
For the pics, just search "breather",  # 5 on the list,    Matthew Johnson   


Buckeroo

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Reply #53 on: August 25, 2013, 03:10:49 pm
Since I believe I have a similar configuration of RE, I'm going to try the same route.  Did you place any kind of valve between the CC and the duck bill?  Did you close off the timing box and primary vents?  When I pulled off my catch can, I had all that mayo in the can. I sure don't want that stuff all over the place.

Also, did you pull off the PAV?  I have read elsewhere that on the AVL, that can over heat the exhaust valve.

            Mine blew oil into the airbox ONCE (spring of 2011, bike was brand new) soaked the air filter & dripped through the hinge & all over the giant muffler & the rear of the bike. I immediately tore all the hoses & cans & tubes off, put & K&N filter right on the carb & rerouted the CC breather hose into the empty air filter case as I've talked about here before. Zero problems since then. No oil spewing anywhere. At most I get a slight oil mist out of the duckbill. I haven't even had to change the old pair of underwear I stuck in there; not a skidmark on them  ;)

     For me simplicity is always the goal. I'm gonna work on a battery inside that right side case next & do away with that huge battery & the holder & everything. I don't like the way the battery cover fits & it hurts my hands getting it off & back on.  Besides, I never use the starter & never ride at night. The battery in the harley is 1/2 the size of the RE battery.   
This bike was stored for 3.5 years.  It had fallen on its side for awhile. I claimed it about a year and a half ago. Thus the low miles and inexperienced owner.
2008 Bullet Electra Classic 500
Classic Frame and AVL motor
Electric Start
Electronic Ignition
5 speed
CV Carb


Superchuck

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Reply #54 on: August 27, 2013, 06:14:24 am
Ok.... since I can't stop experimenting I'm considering rigging a system using 2 PCV valves and a T-connector. 

Here's what I'm thinking:  Run a tube straight up from the crank case to the carb area.  PCV valve goes here.  Tubing attaches to that which drains back down to the timing case.  Halfway down this timing case tube is a T-connector with a tube coming back up under the seat for air ventilation.  The second PCV valve will go on the end of this last ventilation tube as a failsafe for oil spray out the breather.

My concern is this: Will 2 PCV tubes be too restrictive to offer proper engine breathing?

I'll be relying on gravity for most of this, and the hope that the PCV will do a better job of keeping in that rascally oil shower than the duckbill has proven to do.

Chuck


D the D

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Reply #55 on: August 27, 2013, 06:20:48 am
Two valves in line shouldn't matter since it's good to create a vacuum in the crankcase.  But it probably won't do any more than putting the old duckbill on the end of the line.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2013, 07:27:36 am by D the D »
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


Superchuck

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Reply #56 on: August 27, 2013, 04:20:06 pm
Ok, that said, here's another scheme.  I really like this one but it leaves the timing case open to air... is this bad?



Superchuck

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Reply #57 on: August 27, 2013, 04:33:25 pm
Come to think about it again, it is NOT a problem for the timing case tube to be open air... in the stock setup that's exactly what it's doing, correct?  The open tube which connects to the stock air cleaner does not create a vacuum...

Does anyone see any other problems with this scheme?


D the D

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Reply #58 on: August 27, 2013, 05:34:45 pm
My 07 came with a valve in the timing case line.  It just clogged up, but you can give it a shot.
Ideally you'd create vacuum inside the engine case, so if using two hoses you'd need two check valves (PCV valves), one in each hose.  But, to create vacuum in the crankcase the valves have to let air out but not back in.  It's the vertical initial run of the hose and the vacuum that hold the oil in.
A "T" joining both hoses before the valve would do that, too.  Simpler and just as effective to plug the timing cover vent like I show in my photo posted earlier.  I have no oil coming out the of my hose that runs to the end of the fender.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


Superchuck

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Reply #59 on: August 27, 2013, 06:25:29 pm
Hmm... I was under the impression that the timing case only had negative pressure (sucking in), and that the stock setup does not create a vacuum.  Unless the oil flowing back down the timing tube creates this illusion of a vacuum?

I picked up a cheapo PCV valve over my lunch break and I might experiment with this tonight.  I like the T option too, but it sounds like I'll probably get oil spraying out of the PCV in that case.  Worth a shot though!

Might be back to stock again after all this trouble anyway... but it's the experimentation I love.