Author Topic: Remove catch-can form an Electra  (Read 32648 times)

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Bill Harris

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Reply #15 on: January 30, 2012, 09:53:25 pm
With the duckbill off I noticed a little oil from the oil tank works it's way up and out the breather hose until the oil level in the tank is down to about one and a quarter quarts, just showing on the dipstick with it not screwed in.  With the duckbill installed I can run about a quart and a half of oil in the oil tank without loss.  To me, this indicates some low pressure is achieved when the piston ascends with the duckbill on.  This low pressure on the piston ascent, meaning less pressure when the piston descends and a less likelihood of this lessened pressure pushing oil up and out the breather hose.  With this revelation, my statement about the AVL or Iron Bullets with the oil tank breather not pumping-down to low pressure, would seem to be not entirely true.  My apologies.  The duckbill is back!  ;)

Work in progress.

Royal Enfield people are good people.

Cheers,
Bill        
                
« Last Edit: February 06, 2012, 12:46:04 am by Bill Harris »


Blltrdr

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Reply #16 on: January 31, 2012, 02:22:20 am
Bill I was wondering where you routed your hose from your timing case. If it just goes down the back of the gearbox I would suggest you replace the hose with a vacuum cap. Reason being is the redesigned breather that exits the oil tank is somewhat limited in my opinion when compared to the original design, I would think that plugging the nipple off the timing chest would then direct all the pumping pressure that is squeeze through the small hole between the crankcase and oil tank exiting up through the breather hose and regulated by the duckbill. Not plugging the nipple would give the pressure an exit with the least resistance not letting your breather system operate efficiently/correctly.  Just a thought!
« Last Edit: January 31, 2012, 02:29:19 am by Blltrdr »
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Bill Harris

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Reply #17 on: February 18, 2012, 12:27:38 am
I'm back to the catch-can.  Don't like the oil dripping out of the  breather hose and on to the ground.  I think I'm through with this modification attempt for now. 

Cheers,
Bill 


tooseevee

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Reply #18 on: February 27, 2012, 03:35:23 pm
I'm back to the catch-can.  Don't like the oil dripping out of the  breather hose and on to the ground.  I think I'm through with this modification attempt for now. 

Cheers,
Bill 

             Me, too, Bill. I will NOT have a puddle under a bike. Lonnnnng ago I got sick of that being somebody's first comment.

            I've followed this thread (& others) faithfully & gone through a lot of machinations over the past couple months. Cold weather has stretched the time out. Not super cold, but chilly enough to limit long rides (I'm like an old turtle in the cold).

             I tried ALL the ways to deal with the crankcase breather:

             First I ran the hose up high & then down by the centerstand with a duckbill. Result? Fine oil mist all over everything including the rear tire plus I can't stand the tiny puddle under the bike when I shut it down. I have an oil-tight '77 harley shovelhead & I am CERtainly NOT having an ''08 Enfield with 300 miles on it with a puddle of yellow oil foam that looks like a dog throwing up grass under it.

              Second I ran clear Tygon tubing all the way along the fender braces with TyWraps & out at the rear tip of the rear fender. Result? Looks way too Rube Goldberg for me & will attract irritating comments from riders who don't even CHANGE their own oil.

              Third I ReRan the OEM hose back down to rear of the tranny with a small plastic Listerine bottle catch can & duckbill on end of hose. Made tiny air holes in the top edge of the catch can. Result? Did not like the look of it & again it would just attract stupid comments.

                About 2 AM one night (these kinds of things drive me nuts 'til I solve them) I suddenly had an "Of course, Dummy" moment. Your right side air cleaner box is EMPTY since you put the K&N on, Dummy. I went down later & first plugged off the timing case fitting. I don't think that hose is necessary (Please tell me if I'm wrong. Nobody did on my previously posted question).

                  Then I ran the CC breather hose up & over the carburetor & down & into the hole in the air cleaner box & put the duckbill on the end. It has a nice high loop & it ends up pointing down inside the box (perfect) because of the threaded bracket on the air filter hole. I then duct taped all the openings shut & rolled up a nice big piece of old thermal underwear to lay in the bottom of the box to keep oil (if there IS that much) from running out through the hinge.

                   I ran the bike for about 5 minutes in the driveway & got NO oil at all on the rag, but that proves nothing. I shut the box & went upstairs.

                    Today looks like it's going to be warm enough to maybe ride 6 or 7 miles before this old turtle freezes up.

                     Will report later.

                     PS: Since I talked here last about dialing in my carb (BS-29 CV) months ago & running out of throttle, I've raised the needle one more shim & it's running like a stripe-ed ass ape now (well, everything is relative ;>)  Of course, I won't REALLY know until the weather warms up & I get more miles on. I'm still only at 330. I hope that's at least 400 by April 1st. It starts 2nd or 3rd kick all the time on these 30s & 40s degree days. One kick when hot.                 
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bob bezin

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Reply #19 on: February 27, 2012, 04:19:41 pm
those vaccuum caps only last a few months.before they split.so if you use them check them every so often.i guess the oil ruins them
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Superchuck

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Reply #20 on: August 13, 2013, 03:55:36 am
Forgive me for resurrecting an old thread, but I'm having some breather woes. 

Tooseevee, when you did your listerine bottle catch can fix, did it fill up with much oil? 

Yesterday I did the duckbill to the chain mod, but that covered my back wheel and entire bike with oil.  Then today I extended it with a plastic hose to the rear license plate area (still using duckbill) but it still covered me with oil.  I'm down to the bottom of the dipstick now, so I'm thinking it shouldn't have much left to throw, but it seems to keep coming.

I'd love to go without a can, but it's pretty messy.  If I can make a small catch can and hide it behind the tranny, that'd be ideal.  Just wondering what your thoughts were.  I know you said you didn't like the appearance, but what if I make it pretty?

Oh yeah, I ride pretty hard too... some post said that promotes oil throwing... looking for a fix that looks good, is the simplest option, and lets me ride like I want to ride.

Thanks,
Chuck


D the D

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Reply #21 on: August 13, 2013, 05:16:08 am
I placed a Krankvent in the line about the height of the carb and petcock, then ran the line over the frame under the seat, back down and to the rear.  I removed the can entirely and plugged the other vent on the case where the return line from the can had gone with a rubber cap.  No more blowing oil.  Less vibration too.
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Buckeroo

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Reply #22 on: August 13, 2013, 06:36:04 am
Which of the Krankvents did you use?  It sounds like you are using an inline vent device.  Is there a purpose in running the vent up high and back down?  Do you mean the rear of the motor or at the end of the rear fender?  And you capped the primary case vent?  What about the timing case?  I have read this entire thread and I'm still concerned about what to do with the minor lines.
I placed a Krankvent in the line about the height of the carb and petcock, then ran the line over the frame under the seat, back down and to the rear.  I removed the can entirely and plugged the other vent on the case where the return line from the can had gone with a rubber cap.  No more blowing oil.  Less vibration too.
This bike was stored for 3.5 years.  It had fallen on its side for awhile. I claimed it about a year and a half ago. Thus the low miles and inexperienced owner.
2008 Bullet Electra Classic 500
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D the D

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Reply #23 on: August 13, 2013, 07:02:06 am
I used the Universal 3/8" Barb Kit.  I ran the hose straight up from the oil tank nipple (large hose going to oil can) and hung it from the frame with a wide Tie Strap.  The Krankvent is just below the tank, pointing straight up.  The hose curves and runs back along the frame to where the old oil can was, then down behind the left tool box and back along the frame to the rear of the fender.  No oil has ever come out.  I feel a little puff puff at idle there.  I can't hear the Krankvent ticking or tapping at all.
The timing case nipple (smaller of the two hoses going to the can) is capped off with a vacuum cap and small clamp right at the timing case.  Oil can is sitting on a shelf in the garage.
The vent line must run straight up from the oil tank nipple to keep oil from running out the line.  If it doesn't go as straight and high as possible under the frame there is no point in bothering to do this at all.
I'm out of town or I'd post a pic for you.   I will upload a pic tomorrow night.
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Buckeroo

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Reply #24 on: August 13, 2013, 07:48:38 am
Thanks.  Good information.  Where do I obtain a vacuum cap?
I used the Universal 3/8" Barb Kit.  I ran the hose straight up from the oil tank nipple (large hose going to oil can) and hung it from the frame with a wide Tie Strap.  The Krankvent is just below the tank, pointing straight up.  The hose curves and runs back along the frame to where the old oil can was, then down behind the left tool box and back along the frame to the rear of the fender.  No oil has ever come out.  I feel a little puff puff at idle there.  I can't hear the Krankvent ticking or tapping at all.
The timing case nipple (smaller of the two hoses going to the can) is capped off with a vacuum cap and small clamp right at the timing case.  Oil can is sitting on a shelf in the garage.
The vent line must run straight up from the oil tank nipple to keep oil from running out the line.  If it doesn't go as straight and high as possible under the frame there is no point in bothering to do this at all.
I'm out of town or I'd post a pic for you.   I will upload a pic tomorrow night.
This bike was stored for 3.5 years.  It had fallen on its side for awhile. I claimed it about a year and a half ago. Thus the low miles and inexperienced owner.
2008 Bullet Electra Classic 500
Classic Frame and AVL motor
Electric Start
Electronic Ignition
5 speed
CV Carb


D the D

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Reply #25 on: August 13, 2013, 01:58:10 pm
It's just a rubber cap you can get at any autoparts or hardware store.  You can even cut the old hose down to just a couple inches long, place it on the timing case vent nipple and stick a large enough bolt in the hose to plug it tight.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #26 on: August 13, 2013, 03:31:03 pm
Which of the Krankvents did you use?  It sounds like you are using an inline vent device.  Is there a purpose in running the vent up high and back down?  Do you mean the rear of the motor or at the end of the rear fender?  And you capped the primary case vent?  What about the timing case?  I have read this entire thread and I'm still concerned about what to do with the minor lines.

Yes, there is a purpose to run the vent line up high, and then back down.
It acts as a "stand pipe" which allows some burping of liquid oil up the vertical part of the breather hose, and then it will just run back down into the oil tank without being expelled out the back end of the hose.

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Superchuck

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Reply #27 on: August 13, 2013, 07:19:49 pm
Sounds like a great system- googled it and those krank vents go for 90-120 dollars each.  Stopped by Pep Boys on my lunch break to see if they had anything similar and no luck.  Is there a need to use the Krank Vent one specifically, for performance reasons, or is there an alternative that's more budget conscious?

I'm also planning on removing the rear fender, or significantly shortening it, so the long duckbill release tube may not be an option.

Another idea:  What if I replace the crank case tube with clear plastic tubing (or a more pliable black tubing), then coil that tubing the whole way up around the center frame support (just beside the carb).  My intention is to give it as much distance to travel as possible, and still giving it the opportunity to drain back to the crank case before I go to a duckbill and/or smaller, hidden away catch can.

Would the tightly coiled tubing allow the same burping action as ACE's 'stand pipe' or would it not drain quickly enough?  Ideas?

Chuck


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Reply #28 on: August 13, 2013, 08:46:52 pm
I just make sure my engine is at TDC after each ride and I haven't had an issue with the stock breather set-up or wet sumping since I first bought the bike and blew all the hoses clear with my compressor. I see no need for any modifications to the system, at least on the stock bike.


D the D

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Reply #29 on: August 13, 2013, 09:12:52 pm
There are other brands.  Krankvent just seems to be the best quality/longevity.  I used to know a few oldtimers who just used automotive PCV valves, but they aren't made to handle the faster open/close rate of a single cylinder bike and wear out fast.  I even looked at one way valves from Grainger but thought clustering up one from parts looked too long and out of place.  People have made all sorts of weird catch-can addons, but that's just making the symptoms easier to live with, not curing the disease.
Hose straight up unless you want to look Steam-Punk!  You're not riding a still.
Tom (Ace Café) may have more to say as he knows much more than I do.
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1975 XLCH