Author Topic: Custom Electronic Ignition Kit??  (Read 6817 times)

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trees

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on: November 04, 2011, 06:41:42 pm
Hey all,

Curious if anyone has installed this? Thinking about getting one.


http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/maintenance-repair/engine/custom-electronic-ignition-kit.html

Any thoughts?

Many thanks.

Jason
« Last Edit: November 04, 2011, 06:50:46 pm by trees »


baird4444

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Reply #1 on: November 04, 2011, 07:12:35 pm


     I'm all in favor of the Bosch Blue coil,
          but the ei is pointless...
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elmagnifico

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Reply #2 on: November 04, 2011, 08:06:30 pm
I have, it it works well enough. It will even run two coils.
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barenekd

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Reply #3 on: November 04, 2011, 08:56:45 pm
I had a Boyer in a Matchess G80 that worked superbly. One or two kicks every time to start and ran very well. I think the $99 one is a Boyer.
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RBHoge

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Reply #4 on: November 04, 2011, 09:07:37 pm
I installed that kit on "Old Bill" two years ago. 8)  I LOVE IT! One kick and we're running. Idle is a slow tick over, and there is no lack of acceleration. It is well worth the price!  ;D

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ace.cafe

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Reply #5 on: November 04, 2011, 09:39:47 pm
I haven't tried that one.
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Bumboo

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Reply #6 on: November 04, 2011, 10:57:52 pm
Installed the same kit...about an hour.  Improved starting, idling, and cruising.  I'm a die-hard fan of breaker-point ignition and have found it reliable in everything from Vespas to BMW's.....but no in my Royal Enfield.    Installing the electronic ignition made staring an easy 1-2 kicks with steady tick-over and improved acceleration.   I then added a new flatside carb and fell in love with the RE all over again.  I'd recommend it to anyone. 


Moto Fugazzi

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Reply #7 on: November 08, 2011, 09:30:08 pm
How good is the kit? Is it a simple kit or will it retard timing at higher RPM's as an advanced kit would do?
I'm having good luck with my points so far, but the EI system is very tempting...
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t120rbullet

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Reply #8 on: November 09, 2011, 12:20:10 am
I'm having good luck with my points so far, but the EI system is very tempting...

Murphy's law, if it's not broke fix it until it is.
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GreenMachine

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Reply #9 on: November 09, 2011, 12:28:32 am
i have the original points and condenser with 10k on them and bike idles fine,plenty of power and kicks over in two-three kicks...Think a replacement set of points is 10 bucks...i give them a quick hit with a file every now and then and like to c if i can another 10k out of them..might have to readjust if the rubber block wears or the points get pitted badly but not likely with that lucas style canister called a coil.. ;D
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ammburger

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Reply #10 on: November 09, 2011, 03:11:46 am
I'm currently installing the Boyer Micro digital. Does anyone know how to keep the kill switch functional? It's the only step in the directions that's not clear.

It reads: Remove black wire from negative terminal of ignition coil and replace with blue wire from ignition unit. On machines fitted with the ignition cut off switch the blue wire must be connected to the black wire coming from the switch to the c.b. points if use of the switch is still desired.

Sorry to hijack your post, but can anyone translate?

Thanks!


Lwt Big Cheese

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Reply #11 on: November 10, 2011, 09:27:06 am
For balance i'll add:
Using standard points ignition system and always starts within 2 kicks. Even after being left in the cold.
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neil

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Reply #12 on: February 18, 2012, 02:08:10 am
Hi fellow neophyte.
I replaced the points ignition trying for more reliability. I too could not find a clear explanation of how to keep the kill switch functional. On the points system the switch was wired from the ignition to the kill switch and through the points to the low tension side of the coil. When I installed the e.i. I couldn't shut the bike off with the wiring diagram that came with the e.i. I went back to the ignition switch and chased things to the right hand switch cluster and made sure the wiring went thru the kill switch and on to the low tension circuit of the coil. The e.i. spark is always connected to the coil but the kill switch will ground it out if the switch is put in the kill position. This even if the ignition is on. Thats how it should operate. Sorry for the long post but this is how you will need to wire your e.i. Then it will work just like the the points did before you removed them. The kill switch grounds the coil so it will not create a spark to the plug.



Neil 


Bumboo

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Reply #13 on: February 19, 2012, 04:55:54 am
Installed the same kit.  Works perfectly and cured a multitude of ills including starting, idling, and top end acceleration. 

I'm a 45 year fan of breaker points but I could never get them sufficiently reliable in the RE.  I'd get everything spot on and then a few hundred miles later I'd be in there again.  I haven't touched the ignition or timing in several thousand miles now! 

Takes about an hour to install though mine came with no instructions on timing.  It's pretty intuitive if you've done this sort of thing before.  If not, ask for help here.    I also had to hog out the slits in the plate a little w/ a Dremel Tool to get a perfect fit w/ sufficient travel for setting timing.   

Worked great for me and this, along w/ flatside carb,  transformed my 2000 Bullet into working motorcycle that now starts, idles, and behaves.





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Reply #14 on: February 19, 2012, 12:36:42 pm
I am hoping the install that setup on my 57 when my project gets to that point.. Better than rebuilding the entire thing considering the cam is a tad corroded. 
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