[Rosetap]

I've cruised for 45-minute bits at 60-65 for thousands of miles and have had no problems mechanically related.  I've had wiring harnesses catch fire and other things, but internally my bike still runs nicely.  09 AVL.

And 20-50 weight, dino or synthetic, is perfect for the bike.  I may not use synthetic for the initial break-in period, but after that it's fine.  If your dealer says that it's the "wrong" oil, then he's lying.  Now, if you used 5w15 or something, I may see his point, but 20-50 (or 10-40 in the winter) is just fine.

[barenekd]

The bottom line is that automotive Mobil 1 20/50 is not likely the reason your bike is making noise, or at least, it's likely not oil related. The difference between motorcycle oil and automobile oil pertains generally to additives in the auto oil that can make your clutch slip. The actual hard metal lube is about the same in either one.
You do need to get the bike troubleshot and figure out what the real problem before you proceed with major surgery.
Bare

[seohtu]

Thank you all for the helpful information.  I've been mulling it all over and came to the realization that I have been looking for a major problem since the day I got this bike.  Seeing the condition it was in when I got it put the seed in mind that I was making a mistake.  And, having never actually ridden a Royal Enfield before this one, I have no point of reference for what it's supposed to sound/feel like, so EVERYTHING sounds funny/wrong.  What makes the latest development more concerning is simply that it's NEW.

The location of the noise concerns me.

I think I will take the most recent advice given - take it up to the dealer and have them go over the bike top to bottom, every nut, bolt, fluid, filter... and then tell me whether I should be worried or not.  Until I have a definitive diagnosis from someone who actually knows what "right" is, I'm just borrowing trouble.

I should be able to take it up next weekend; I'll update this post as information comes in.

[GreenRE]

There just might be a bullet guru on this forum that lives around you and may eb willing to help out. You might want to check.

[Superchuck]

here's another hint to go along with your thoughts... the more you read about how to fix royal enfields the more you think your bike is undergoing said fatal errors as you're reading about.  I swear, ever since getting my new job and spending less time on the forum, my bike's been relatively worry-free, and I've been putting some serious miles on it.

Also, trying to find an enfielder in your general area is a huge help too since it's really nice to hear first hand that, 'yeah they all shift weird like that' or 'my bike does that same thing when it's idling' or , 'yeah i had that problem once but eventually the gremlins causing it went away and now everything's 100% groovey!'

hope you find the root of your bike's strangeness, and enjoy the search while getting there.

chuck

[wizzingtar25]

seohtu

Unless the "wrong kind of oil" was salad oil I don't know why it would have caused a problem with a roller, needle or ball bearing.

That's not to say the crankshaft bearing isn't the problem but if the oil was an automotive or motorcycle oil, the oil probably isn't the problem.

I'm not familiar with the inner designs of the AVL but if it uses a sleeve bearing (often called a plain bearing) on the crankshaft or  the crankshaft end of the connecting rod, the wrong automotive oil could cause damage.

Perhaps you've already done this but before tearing things apart, have you used a short length of garden hose to determine exactly where the noise is coming from?
You would do this by holding one end to your ear and the other end to various locations on the outside of the crankcase, sidecases, cylinder, cylinder head etc.

If a knocking or loud tapping noise is coming from the left sidecase it could be the primary chain being too loose.
If the sound is coming from the right sidecase it could be the valve lifters (or tappets).
If the sound is coming from the crankcase it does indicate a problem with the crankshaft or lower connecting rod bearing.

Hi,
I was intrigued by your post and had to ask if this really works? I mean using a bit of garden hose as a stethoscope! What if any, sound problems have you detected this way and how accurate was it?? Either way I will definitely give it a go and see for myself..
Cheers!
S.

[wizzingtar25]

I'll try to be brief, will elaborate on request.

I purchased a used 2006 Bullet Electra with AVL engine, 7,000 miles on it.  I'd been reading about Royal Enfields for a few years before preparation met opportunity, so I knew essentially what I was in for and was looking forward to it.

The bike I bought had not been started in over a year, had two flat tires, battery acid down the side, and was covered in a greasy film that I still haven't gotten all washed off.  I took it to a bike mechanic to get it running.

Once running, I used this forum extensively as a resource until I could get the manuals to figure out things like why it had no mid-acceleration, why it backfired, why etc.  As resources go, I cannot commend the particpants and hosts of this forum enough.

I changed the oil with the wrong kind of oil about 500 miles ago, and began, at some point, to notice a metallic sound in the bottom end that could not be attributed to valve noise.  After a thorough discussion with the nearest RE dealer (about 200 miles away), we have concluded that the noise is most likely the roller bearing on the crankshaft giving up due to not using the proper oil.  He figures it'll cost me $1,500 to have him repair the damage done, or a bit less if I remove the engine myself and bring it to him.

Here's the question: I have no problem adjusting the valves, tearing apart the carburetor, replacing bent pushrod adjusters, etc. How big of a step is it from that kind of work to tearing this enging down and rebuilding it myself?  I don't mind getting greasy.  I don't mind if it takes all winter to get it all back together again.  I don't mind having to re-read instructions for the fifth time before they make sense.  I bought this bike expecting to eventually know my wrenches by individual names.  As one person told me, "You're not buying a bike, you're adopting a lifestyle," and I have that peculiar mentality that makes that okay.

What I don't have are the 28 special tools they list for working on this engine, nor the experience with gearbox assemblies or clutch plates or... that a professional mechanic would have.

If it were you in a similar situation, would you do it yourself or have it done?

You have got a lot of good inputs from what i read. I mostly think its your con rod or something related to that (esp since you say the noise is coming from where it is a few inches..) As far as taking it all apart fixing and reassembling goes. You can take apart that engine with regular tools save for the fly wheel puller as mentioned already. I had the same problem and had my engine rebuilt by a RE service guy. Initially i wanted to take it apart and do it myself and learn a whole lot while I was at it, but time and transportation were a huge consideration (I hate using anything other than my bike unless i have to get somewhere in a monkey suit) I sat and watched them do the whole job. If your con rod has developed play in it you will require a lathe machine to right it and have it re-balanced. So it would be prudent to have your first engine rebuilt. You can always DIY the next time

[Arizoni]

Sure a short length of garden hose will work to help isolate sound locations.

Because the inlet is small the sounds in that area will be much more pronounced than those coming from places further away from the open end of the hose.

This is not to say that this is the best method.
An automotive stethoscope is the best way because the metal probe can be placed precisely at the point of interest.

Years ago I used the hose method but later bought the stethoscope.

Using the stethoscope I can hear the exact sound from things like ball bearings, water pump seals, ticking valve rocker arms, tapping pistons etc.

For instance, my Mazda Miata was making a slight clicking sound and it was coming from somewhere on the front of the engine.
It could have been the alternator bearing, the water pump bearing, the power steering bearing or the refrigeration pump bearing.
The sound from the stethoscope probe told me it was none of these with all of them making either a shhhhhhhhhhhh, or whirrrrrrrrrrrrr sound in a nice clean manner.
Placing the probe on either side of the front of the engine block allowed me to isolate it to the left front side.  Moving the probe around allowed me to determine that the noise was coming from the cam drive belt idler bearing.

I'm not necessarly recommending this product but for those who don't know what an automotive stethoscope looks like, here is a link to one

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM

[bob bezin]

a nice long screwdriver will also work as a stethoscope

[tooseevee]

Sure a short length of garden hose will work to help isolate sound locations.

Because the inlet is small the sounds in that area will be much more pronounced than those coming from places further away from the open end of the hose.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM

            This is also how we used to balance multiple carburetored cars with SUs or Webers. With a piece of surgical tubing in your ear & the other end placed in the same spot of each intake you could make sure each throat was making equal sucking sounds (after you had the mixture right on each carb). Then you'd clamp the carbs control rods together.

              Then a little vacuum gauge appeared with a little floating cork in a graduated tube.

[Lwt Big Cheese]

a nice long screwdriver will also work as a stethoscope

Doh! Beat me to it.

Must be the time difference!