Author Topic: Electrical mods completed!  (Read 13654 times)

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geoffbaker

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on: March 28, 2008, 04:52:13 pm
My 2000 military came with a number of electrical problems, all of which were fixed by cleaning all the contacts and connectors and grounds, and replacing the battery, condenser and points.

To reduce load on the system I converted all lights to LEDs (except the headlamp, of course).

I also added a couple of accessory circuits, to power my cell phone/gps and to power a cylinder head temp meter.

The resulting mass of wires in the left side toolbox annoyed me (and the fact that I now had three fuses distributed around the bike, instead of one) and I decided to clean it up.

I purchased a modern ATO/ATC fuse block to hold four fuses (the plastic modern ones, not the old glass tubes) and I rewired everything to fit. Then I installed two circuit breakers, instead of fuses... so I no longer need to worry about blowing fuses, at all!

Here's a picture:



The breakers are on the left (the box on the upper right is an amplifier for the cylinder head temperature meter).
I already wrote about converting my tail light/brake light to an LED system which is significantly brighter than the old one, and draws about 1/70th the power... and I also converted all the pilot, ammeter, indicator and speedo lamps to long lasting, brighter LEDs.

This week, I finally converted all my turn signal lamps. I replaced the front round oem signal units with smaller, better looking "arrows"; and the rear lamps I kept but I replaced the bulb with a 36 LED square, with an additional high power amber bulb firing out at near right angles to the bike, to improve my "visibility" to others on the road, including people passing on either side. Then I added an electronic flasher, and the result, all around, is greater visibility and less drain on the system. The only thing I dislke is that there is no clicking sound when the signals are on; but the flashing indicator on the speedo is far brighter than before (a BA9 6-LED bulb replaced the old 2w bulb) so that gets my attention about as well as the clicking noise.

Here's a picture:


« Last Edit: March 28, 2008, 04:57:46 pm by geoffbaker »


deejay

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Reply #1 on: March 28, 2008, 05:22:06 pm
NICE! I like the idea of running LEDs. I will be running a smaller sealed battery since I have done away with the electric start. The thought of drawing less power is intriguing to me. That photo of your blinker almost hurts my eyes its so bright  ;D

Do the LEDs just pop right in to replace the old bulbs?


geoffbaker

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Reply #2 on: March 28, 2008, 05:57:21 pm
The LED I used was a 36array amber LED which is wired to an 1156 socket, so yes, it just drops in. However, I added a single 6LED bulb with a high output central LED beam to the side, and I soldered that to the 36LED array, then hotglued both into the internal housing (which I cut away on the side to allow for the side firing LED).

Hot glue and solder... all ya need  ;D

But I'm equally pleased with the "cleaning up" of the toolbox and the circuit breakers... I no longer need to carry fuses around!


Bankerdanny

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Reply #3 on: March 28, 2008, 06:22:15 pm
"The only thing I dislke is that there is no clicking sound when the signals are on."

You could hear the clicking? Between my helmet, the exhaust, and the valves I can barely hear the horn.
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geoffbaker

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Reply #4 on: March 28, 2008, 07:08:38 pm
true enough, bankerdanny!


LotusSevenMan

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Reply #5 on: March 28, 2008, 11:58:28 pm
Nice job Geoff!

Have you a link to the resettable tiddly 'fuses'?
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

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geoffbaker

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Reply #6 on: March 29, 2008, 12:03:47 am
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html

I purchased the type 3 breakers which are manually resettable (button on top).  Total cost for breakers and fusebox, under $20.

I'm still left with one 3amp atc fuse for the cylinder temp meter as they don't make breakers less than 5amp anyway.

But having blown several fuses in the past month, I'm glad to no longer have to worry about carrying extra fuses!

« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 12:11:24 am by geoffbaker »


LotusSevenMan

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Reply #7 on: March 29, 2008, 05:13:13 pm
These appear similar in lower amperage 'blow' ratings!!

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=493&doy=29m3

Wonder if they are OK?
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
Honda VTR FireStorm (SuperHawk) 996cc 'V' twin
Kawasaki KR1 250cc twin 'stroker
Ducati 916 'L' twin


geoffbaker

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Reply #8 on: March 29, 2008, 07:19:57 pm
too small; atc fusebox size is 19mm wide; these are 12mm wide. I'll keep looking!.


Leonard

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Reply #9 on: March 29, 2008, 08:18:59 pm
  I guess I've been lucky with my '04 Sixty-5.  When it was new (Aug '05) it stopped running because the fuse came apart, didn't blow just came apart.  I shoved it back together and rode it home.  I thought about replacing it with a modern style but had some of the old ones so used it and haven't replaced it since (12k plus miles).  I do carry a spare.
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LotusSevenMan

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Reply #10 on: March 29, 2008, 09:34:45 pm
Geoff.
If they are resettable or auto reset as these are then I guess you don't need a fusebox as such at all. Soldered directly across where the fuse went with heatshrink on the terminals gives less corrosion liability as no blades in metal to metal contact (or cylinder fuse contact) so even more reliable?
Just wondering...........................  :)
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
Honda VTR FireStorm (SuperHawk) 996cc 'V' twin
Kawasaki KR1 250cc twin 'stroker
Ducati 916 'L' twin


geoffbaker

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Reply #11 on: March 29, 2008, 10:06:23 pm
I suppose that's true. I like the fusebox because it grouped all the stuff together, got rid of lots of extra wiring, and makes it easy to see what is wrong and where!

Without a fusebox, you might be sorting through a heap of wires looking for each circuit breaker or fuse (I had two in the toolbox and one that I'd stuffed in under the seat because the wire wasn't long enough.)

Now I just look at the box and can instantly see what has happened. And it's neat and clean.

Lastly, I suppose a circuit breaker can break, too. Then you would have to find it and unsolder it and cut off the shrinkwrap...


baird4444

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Reply #12 on: March 29, 2008, 11:01:02 pm
  I guess I've been lucky with my '04 Sixty-5.  When it was new (Aug '05) it stopped running because the fuse came apart, didn't blow just came apart.  I shoved it back together and rode it home.  I thought about replacing it with a modern style but had some of the old ones so used it and haven't replaced it since (12k plus miles).  I do carry a spare.
Leonard-   I had the same thing in my 2003. That's not a fuse...
it'sa glass tube with a wire in it with metal caps. Try replacing it with
a real American made fuse...   I'll bet you have brighter lights!!
 that Indian fuse is acting as a resistor!! 
Try it   -  Mike
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 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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Leonard

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Reply #13 on: March 30, 2008, 03:50:14 pm
Leonard-   I had the same thing in my 2003. That's not a fuse...
it'sa glass tube with a wire in it with metal caps. Try replacing it with
a real American made fuse...   I'll bet you have brighter lights!!
 that Indian fuse is acting as a resistor!! 
Try it   -  Mike
[/quote]

  I'll have to look into that when I get home (in Virginia now).  It sure looked like a fuse.  Anyway I replaced it with a gin-u-wine Buss fuse.  I forget the amps.
2009 Triumph Bonneville T100
2004 Royal Enfield Sixty-5 (RIP)
2001 Kawasaki W650 (going, going...gone)
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geoffbaker

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Reply #14 on: April 07, 2008, 11:50:30 pm
These appear similar in lower amperage 'blow' ratings!!

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=493&doy=29m3
 
Wonder if they are OK?

Just a followup, LSM; I bought one of these thinking maybe I could get it to work.
No problem! I just took a 3amp fuse, put it in the vise, cut the top of it lff, and then soldered this 3A resettable circuit breaker to the legs.

Works great! I tested it by putting it in the accessory circuit fuse junction (normally a 15amp) and then plugged in a 12v tire pump and a 12v converter hooked to a 500W light... it would run for a couple of seconds, cut out, and then come back on a few seconds later...

So now I have a bike with no fuses, and instead am running on three resettable circuitbreakers.