It's allliiiiiivvvveee!
Finally got it back on the road with all new wiring, Boyer Powerbox, new Bosch ignition coil and a solid alternator in a properly-drilled primary case. HID headlight, too.
I'd been having a problem while trying to replace the alternator, in that the (aftermarket) inner primary case was mis-drilled somehow and just wouldn't allow the stator to mount in the proper place. (as in, there simply wasn't enough movement so that the rotor could run without contact, not that I don't know how to space the stator and rotor.)
Then when putting the alternator on, I found the wiring on the bike was such an incoherent black-taped spiderweb of a mess I just had to trash it and try my hand at rebuilding it myself. Since the bike's not very standard in configuration, the factory harness wasn't very applicable. Big learning curve, but now it's in, the wiring is clean (except behind the headlight, where I really mis-judged things), and the battery, coil and rect/reg are tucked under the seat.
It's so gratifying to see the ammeter in the positive, finally, even with the headlight on.
Still have some kind of mix/timing thing to work out, though. But it moves again...that's something.
Now to get to that front-end swap for the disc brake fork...having a real problem getting the top caps of the stanchion tubes. Went to the local shop who informed me they just clamp them in vice and beat down on a big crescent wrench to get them off...they figure customers will never notice the marking and possible ovalization of the tubes because they do it where it's covered by the casquette.
Apparently another shop may have an appropriate impact tool to do it right. I can't make any headway doing it by hand.
Oh, and I should be getting some better rear braking and shifting soon, courtesy of solid linkage rods with appropriate bends to get things spaced out just right.