[AgentX]

Horrible whining/scraping/ringing noise which had me scared for a bit (left the bike at work for a week until I could give it a once-over after I brought my toolbox) turned out to be a loose primary cover...without dumping ATF all over, due to the dry clutch, the bike failed to let me know it was a little rattly!

Wheels are wonked but my cheapo truing stand just arrived so I can get those smoothed out.

Need to do some machine work to get the steering stem nuts to properly lock down--there's no thread exposed for a locknut right now.

I'm looking at a pretty damned ridable bike now.  Might be time to change the break-in pilot jet for the proper one soon.

[ace.cafe]

Cool!
 

[AgentX]

Thanks, Ace.  Hearing and feeling the bike break in to its potential is pretty awesome.

Just put a K&N filter into the canister; the paper one was having obvious issues with the (edit:) WET season and the rain.  Prolly go back to paper once the wet goes away.

Seems to be running fine now-I was having some mixture issues as the paper got worse.

[AgentX]

Got back to the machine shop to get the stem cone nut lathed down a little so the top locknut could fit.  The custom cups I had made were taller than stock, and there was no thread to fit the locknut on.  Till now I was just tightening it before every ride...

Two minute job but I had to wait for the lathe guy, so I snapped some hipster bike and machine shots.









(Post-holocaust mad max Muppet rooster zombie...)

[AgentX]

Per Chumma's instructions, swapped the P6 needle jet and 200 main for a P4/185 combo.  Air screw is now about 3/4 of a turn out from bottomed, which worked for an initial start-up and stationary check, but I need to do some riding to get it hot and re-adjust.

Floats a little when dropping back to idle after some mild revs, around the 1200-1300 RPM zone.

[ace.cafe]

Sticky advance weights?

[AgentX]

It's a Boyer...

Altogether it feels better, more taut and athletic.  It was definitely a little fat before.  Just that little bit of float.  Not much of a problem and we'll see if a little more work with the air screw doesn't cure it.  It's happening with the throttle closed so that's gotta be the jet responsible, no?

[ace.cafe]

It's a Boyer...

Altogether it feels better, more taut and athletic.  It was definitely a little fat before.  Just that little bit of float.  Not much of a problem and we'll see if a little more work with the air screw doesn't cure it.  It's happening with the throttle closed so that's gotta be the jet responsible, no?

A little fat during break-in is not too bad. They do better with the jetting Chumma recommended in the warm weather after break-in. It's okay, just keep an eye on the heat.

With the throttle closed, it's either the air screw or there is an air leak.
Only the pilot jet and the air screw are in play with a closed throttle. No other jets are even operating with a closed throttle.

[AgentX]

yep, had no worries about the break-in jetting; I know why it was that way, and it ran great even when richer than optimal.

Don't think it's an air leak but I will double-check the hose clams since I did obviously have to take everything apart to get the carb out for the re-jetting.

[AgentX]

Got it warm with a little scoot around the neighborhood with the daughter. Re-set the air screw, and now it's fine.

[AgentX]

Stuck on a brutally hot firing range waiting for the construction contractor to show...so, more snapshots.











Disc brake setup is good, but I may work up a new linkage for the left-side brake pedal. This one has an inline ball joint which makes up for a lack or precision but I might try to make something which doesn't require that.

Also looking at toolbox/side cover options.   The stock boxes interfere with rider legs/feet due to placement of rearsets.

[High On Octane]

Looking real nice!  How did the headset bearing job end up working out for you?

[AgentX]

It is working very nicely now.  The first design i tried needed a bit more grinding for clearance; once achieved this worked well except for the taller stack height of the new bearing cups.  This left less exposed thread on the steering stem, leaving nothing for the top locknut to thread down on.  Had to tighten occasionally between short rides.

Two minutes on a lathe turned down the lower cone nut (Thunderbird yoke setup) enough to get the locknut back on and it is copacetic now.

Dunno if it was worth the hassle but it is a nice customish touch, I suppose.

[Adrian II]

On a very minor detailing point, you could replace the old rear drum brake's cam spindle housing with a blanking plate, or abolish the old backplate altogether and replace it with a spacer washer of the correct thickness.

A.

[AgentX]

On a very minor detailing point, you could replace the old rear drum brake's cam spindle housing with a blanking plate, or abolish the old backplate altogether and replace it with a spacer washer of the correct thickness.

A.

Hah, every time I look at the wheel I'm thinking "When I get around to being annoyed by that, I guess I'll know I have the rest of the bike pretty well sorted out!"

I could drill out the fasteners and pop-rivet a piece of aluminum over it pretty easily, for sure.