[barenekd]

I'm glad you were able to find a solution that works. I wonder if there is a way to make the shifting work by keeping a little tension on the clutch when shifting and retain the clutch lever play. I know there's no throw out bearing but I'd be afraid clutch rod wear or other parts wearing out with constant engagement without the play.

You'd be better off just shifting without the clutch. Laving a bit of tension on it will invite the wear you mentioned, but also overheating the clutch plates causing warpage and wear.
Up shifting without the clutch is pretty easy, just roll off the throttle as you pull up the shift lever. it's usually pretty smooth. Downshifting, leave the throttle where it is and push the lever down. It works, but not quite as smoothly as upshifts. If you have broken yor throttle cable, try to find a way home with the least amount of stops. If you have to stop, shift into neutral before you get to the light. Push off with your feet and get rolling, then push the lever into first gear.
Bare

[TWinOKC]

Up shifting without the clutch is pretty easy, just roll off the throttle as you pull up the shift lever. it's usually pretty smooth. Downshifting, leave the throttle where it is and push the lever down. It works, but not quite as smoothly as upshifts. If you have broken yor throttle cable, try to find a way home with the least amount of stops. If you have to stop, shift into neutral before you get to the light. Push off with your feet and get rolling, then push the lever into first gear.
Bare

A good tip Bare. 

If you're out in the middle of nowhere and the clutch cable breaks.  You can make it home if you are careful and lucky. 

[olhogrider]

Bare, with its antique design and marginal metallurgy, I would only shift without the clutch if the cable broke. In one of my earlier posts I described how I had tried it. I have done it on lots of modern bikes but this RE will have none of it. I would rather wear out, overheat or otherwise misuse the bike rather than sail off the cliff while I fumble for a gear... ANY gear!

AgentX, the friction zone is now near the outer limit of the lever throw but I can live with that.

Jartist, any word on when your bike will be back on the road?

[Ducati Scotty]

In one of my earlier posts I described how I had tried it. I have done it on lots of modern bikes but this RE will have none of it.

Same here.  I could shift all my other bikes pretty smoothly without the clutch but the RE doesn't seem to want to play nicely.

Scott

[jartist]

Jartist, any word on when your bike will be back on the road?

Should be any minute now, really.  Just waiting for the delivery of the side cover gasket.  I'm going to have them throw in a 18t sprocket while the side is off but it shouldn't take more than an hour to button things up once the parts are in.

[barenekd]

Same here.  I could shift all my other bikes pretty smoothly without the clutch but the RE doesn't seem to want to play nicely.

I've shifted mine some just to see how it was. I didn't want to put out any bum info. Mine worked fine. Due to the metallurgy and such, I wouldn't make a full time habit of it, but then mine shifts fine in the first place. I would definitely ride it home in the event of clutch expiration, though.
Bare

[prof_stack]

I tried no-clutch upshifting and the C5 wasn't nearly as smooth as the Guzzi.  Downshifting is definitely a clutch thing for me.

[Anthonyof Erin]

Hey All,Have not been back here in a while has been a busy summer almost to busy for ridin but guess what I have both issues with the bike ie shifting and solenoid. The shifting is more like it jumps out of 4th and I felt the first time it happened that since that was my last up shift that it dropped down but it actually drops between 4th and 5th. It is happening more often now. Can be very intimadating when traffic is right up yer butt and you quickly recover to get back your safety zone. Starter is starting to act up in that lately on each drive I had the starter spin but not engage. Maybe I'm not driving it enough.
Set to go into the dealer next week. When I mentioned these issues his comment was that had only been one report in the US so far.
Take Care

[olhogrider]

The cable adjustment is easy to do. Just snug it up until there is NO freeplay then take it for a ride. This worked for me. If it doesn't you can always put it back.

[TCP]

Let's face it.  We all blow a shift now and again.  Even on my Triumph I will occasionally miss one (depending on my level of engagement).

[Anthonyof Erin]

Ok so I adjusted the clutch free play to Less than 2 mil, took it for a boot and low and behold it shifted worse than before. this has to be a tyanny issue ?
Later
Anthony of Erin

[BRADEY]

Ok so I adjusted the clutch free play to Less than 2 mil, took it for a boot and low and behold it shifted worse than before. this has to be a tyanny issue ?
Later
Anthony of Erin

You gotta get your primary side checked completely. It could be a problem with your plates, the auto chain tensioner, the clutch push pad or the cable.......!

On a second thought, you should also check the striker assembly (this part is attached to the shifter through a rocker, and moves the cam plate to change gears, can be accessed from the right hand side cover of the bike).

Start with the easiest things first. Change of clutch cable, opening the primary to check the primary chain tensioner, the clutch push pad and its bearings, the plates for wear and free movement in the clutch basket, and then move on to the right side of the bike to check the striker assembly.

[Kevin Mahoney]

Are we mixing metaphors here? For example there is a world of difference between the 4 speed, 5 speed non unit and the UCE transmissions. The non unit and UCE are quite similar with man common parts but with a revised primary and clutch are also quite different. The shift mechanism between a 4 speed, a 5 speed and a Jap bike are also quite different. The 5 speed us much the same as a late Triumph non unit engine. The 4 speed, well it is the 4 speed. Strong to a fault but shifts like a tractor. Jap bikes us a roller type system All are different. I have not read the entire thread but comparing one to the other as far as shifting and "no clutch" techniques isn't going to work.

[Anthonyof Erin]

I am not having any of that. This bike is a 2010 C5. I will let the dealer figure it out as their is still warrany on this bike. Will keep you posted. Positve or negative.
Take Care