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Author Topic: RE electricals  (Read 10367 times)


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Re: RE electricals
« Reply #30 on: May 27, 2009, 09:22:13 am »

Anyway, quick question - would the motogadget be difficult to install by itself on a stock RE?  I am a board-level electrician, so I'm fine with working with things a bit, but I don't really want to spend two weeks rewiring the whole damned bike.  If it's just a couple of hours of plugging/unplugging/crimping/soldering, then I'm okay with that.  What's your take, oh master-RE wiring guru?

Well, depends on the bike. With a 2000 military, the electrics are considerably more primitive.

What the motogadget requires is that you run "logic" wires to your switches and "power" wires to the bulbs, horn, headlamp, starter etc. The "logic" wires are all small (20ga if I recall, but its all metric, you have to look on their site for conversion info) so they are easily run. The power wires depend on the device load... mounting on a new HD for instance would require heavy wire for the starter!

I ran all new wiring because I had bad wiring in the harness anyway and had no choice but to pull it all.

It would be easy - and a day's work - to just run new wiring where necessary and patch into old wires elsewhere. The horn, for instance, took me only 30 seconds to wire. But this is assuming you have the RE manual as well as the munit manual, have some basic electrical skills (soldering), and know how to use a multitester to trace wires.

Changes: The turn signal indicator lamp in the speedo must be wired to both sides of the trafficator circuit using two 99-cent diodes (the manual explains it all pretty well, and I can help with questions if you decide to do it). The headlamp hi/lo should be easy but I have a HID unit which required special installation. I also installed an on-off switch for the headlamp.

One thing you will lose is your ammeter; there is no way to make it run properly with the m-unit between it and the battery (you get positive load showing on the needle, but no negative load). I switched to a voltmeter instead which you can get cheaply (Garbone did so, look up his thread) or use my method and install a digital voltmeter directly into the ammeter housing. The voltmeters are apparently sensitive enough to show voltage drop as points open to get you to TDC - but I make no guarantees about this, as my bike is a diesel. Garbone reports it works fine for TDC any questions about this direct to him.

I completed the munit installation - just running the wires and testing - in a day. But as there were multiple projects involved (I made a box to hold the m-unit and other fuses and terminal strips, I pulled all the harness wiring out and ran new wire through the main frame tube, requiring drilling holes, I made a waterproof conduit for the wiring from the frame tube to the toolbox holding the m-unit, I added terminal strips for a "power hub" in the headlamp casque so I could run additional circuits in future easily, and I added accessory circuits for two meters, an oil pressure warning lamp, a computer, and a AMP waterproof connection for another acc circuit to power items such as cell phone charger etc. - each with their own fuses.). All told it still took me only two or three days for the total rewire - one full weekend and a few nights of work.

Last note: if you want hazard lights, you have to add another dual-diode connection between the flashers and an extra hazard switch (instructions are available from me if you want). If you want the alarm to work you MUST arrange for the m-unit to be mounted securely HORIZONTALLY with the face of the unit pointing straight UP, otherwise the trembler switch won't work properly.

What you gain - an easily diagnosed electrical system with complete fault protection without fuses or relays, an alarm, modulated brake lights, hazard lights, self-cancelling flashers...personally, I think it's an awesome upgrade and would recommend to anyone with wiring skils. If you, like me, already had major electrical issues, it's a great solution. Even if you don't have a specific need for the upgrade, it offers enough useful features to justify the cost.

Regarding safety stuff as Garbone mentions - there is a circuit for the estart which requires no relay and is simple to wire. Ignition has its own circuit. So long as safety features such as kickstand and clutch interlocks are essentially wireable inline to the ignition circuit and dont exceed the 16A limit on that circuit, they would all work just fine althought that circuit might get fairly complex. I would think clutch lock kill switch and kickstand could all be wired in series on that circuit with ease.

I love the combination of the m-unit and the m-lock... no ignition "switch", no standard key, hidden RFID device, the bike is essentially impregnable unless the thief wants to rewire the whole bike!

« Last Edit: May 27, 2009, 10:32:19 am by geoffbaker »


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Re: RE electricals
« Reply #31 on: June 26, 2009, 12:43:07 am »
I went the cheap and lazy route and installed an alarm system but kept the bike wiring.  I did change the two fuses I found (one under seat, one inside toolbox on ammeter/ignition line) to breakers, but the alarm system works well enough.  When I start having problems with wiring (they will happen, eventually, I'm told) I'll get to rewiring.

It is fun, when people are looking at my bike (as happens daily - I park across from the entrance doors at the store I work at) to push the "vehicle finder" button (essentially a "make noise" button) and they jump back.
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