Author Topic: 4-speed RH Shift Gearbox with Sealed Mainshaft Bearing. A Few Pics.  (Read 8257 times)

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Byway

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Here are a few pics I took while I had my gearbox apart to fix my kickstarter pawl and to upgrade the mainshaft bearing to a partially-sealed one.

This first pic shows the "distance washer" which was missing, apparently from when the original owner converted the gearbox back to RH shift. The washer cost $1.20 from CMW.  If only the shipping had been that cheap! :



This pic shows the new partially-sealed mainshaft bearing as installed into the inner cover.  I read about this mod. in Pete Snidal's manual.  The stock mainshaft bearing is completed unsealed which is why grease is used in the gearbox instead of gear oil.  By installing a 6303 2RS bearing with the seal removed from the inner side (to allow lubrication) I'm able to run with 80W-140 gear oil with no leakage (hopefully it stays this way!)  Shifting does seem smoother now:



The pics shows the outer cover, shifter bits and pieces, bearing cover, etc. reinstalled as the project drew to a close.  Note the locknut on the detent plunger had not been reinstalled as I was still in the "fiddling" stage with it!  Also note the 2mm hole I drilled in the casting for venting (another Pete Snidal recommendation. Top right, on the bump of the oil filler):



Hope you enjoyed these pics!

Al
2001 Royal Enfield Bullet Classic;  1988 Yamaha Virago 535;  1999 Suzuki Katana 600; 2001 Honda CN250 Helix;  1972 Honda CB350SS.


Kevin Mahoney

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These are great pictures and should help a lot of people. Thanks for posting them. (I see you are using the synthetic gear lube - good choice)
Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


Byway

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Kevin,

No problem!  I've had a few projects going on with my Bullet and I tried to take pics for everyone to see.  Sometimes nothing beats an actual photograph to help someone understand something or just to have as a reference!  I'm looking forward to contributing more very soon.

Thanks,

Al
2001 Royal Enfield Bullet Classic;  1988 Yamaha Virago 535;  1999 Suzuki Katana 600; 2001 Honda CN250 Helix;  1972 Honda CB350SS.


Leonard

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Kevin,

Sometimes nothing beats an actual photograph to help someone understand something or just to have as a reference! 
Al

Amen to that!  Have you had the forks apart yet?  I'd love to see those photos.
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LotusSevenMan

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Al,

I have found photos like that very useful when it all falls apart so it can be assembled again correctly by a few looks at the pictures!
Good job there you've done!!!!!
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
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Byway

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Thanks, guys..   

I've never had forks apart before so I'd be really interested if someone documents their forks work with photos..  It's just a matter of time 'till it comes up!

Al
2001 Royal Enfield Bullet Classic;  1988 Yamaha Virago 535;  1999 Suzuki Katana 600; 2001 Honda CN250 Helix;  1972 Honda CB350SS.


mtrude

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Hello, are any modifications required to fit that bearing into the case? Ill be starting my conversion soon and looks like an excellent idea. Is that 2mm hole in a very specific spot on the hump or is it in a general area? Im sorry i didnt buy Mr Snidals manual. Have fun, mtrude


Byway

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There are no modifications required to upgrade the stock mainshaft bearing with a sealed one, aside from removing one of the bearing's seal, if you choose to do so.  The stock bearing is a plain 6303 ball bearing and the one I installed is a 6303 2RS, meaning is has two rubber seals (one on each side).  There is also a 6303 bearing with metal seals but I don't have any info. on whether or not one of those seals could be cleanly removed as I've never used one before.

You have two options.  You can:

1.  Install the bearing "as is", with both seals intact.  The bearing comes packed with grease and should last a fairly long time.  Just how long is up for debate since this depends on the quality of the bearing, how much abuse your gearbox is subjected to, etc!

Or,

2.  Remove one of the seals and install the bearing with this open side facing the inside of the gearbox.  I small o-ring removal tool or needle can be used to raise the lip of the seal to allow you to pry it off.  The gear oil splashing around inside the gearbox during operation should keep the bearing well lubricated, and the remaining seal on the outside will keep the oil from leaking out past the bearing.

I found the stock bearing suprisingly easy to remove.  I placed the largest washer I could fit on top of the rear of the bearing and tapped on this with a drift (you could use a large socket or extension if you have no other choice).   A large socket can also be used to tap the new bearing into place.  If you have to tap on the bearing itself, tap only on the outer race of the bearing and do so evenly around the bearing as you go.  If you tap on the seal or the inner race you'll risk damaging the bearing!

The other end of the mainshaft also has a larger ball bearing but has an oil seal that is pressed into place over it.  However, I notice that Hitchcock's have a sealed bearing upgrade available that contains a sealed bearing both for the front and rear bearings.  I suppose this would offer an added layer of leak protection.
Anyone that has any input on this bearing, sealed or otherwise:  I'd love to read it!

Concerning the 2mm vent hole I drilled in the inner cover:  If I recall (I don't have the manual with me at the time of this typing) Mr. Snidal suggested drilling the hole maybe 1/4" (?) below the upper lip of the cover but this, by my estimation, would be within the depth of the filler plug's threads.  So, I drilled the hole a little below where I determined the bottom of the filler plug would be.  The "hump" that the vent hole is drilled into provides a little pocket on the inside of the cover that's perhaps just a little more "out of the way" of the oil inside the cover.

Good Luck!

Al

2001 Royal Enfield Bullet Classic;  1988 Yamaha Virago 535;  1999 Suzuki Katana 600; 2001 Honda CN250 Helix;  1972 Honda CB350SS.