[olhogrider]

I was riding about 30 mph in some 25 mph curves when the red "check engine" light came on. I stopped and checked the code. Came home and checked here. Found the code 1 long 1 short translates to oil temp sensor. Any idea where that is and how to test it?

I really need to carry those codes with me.

[Arizoni]

The oil temp sensor is screwed into the back of the head right below the fuel injector/intake manifold.

The test readings according to the service manual for UCE's is:

-21*C  = 18800 ohm (18.8K ohms)
40*C  = 1136 ohm (1.136K ohms)
100*C = 155 ohm (0.155 K ohms)

It may be possible that the wire has come loose or there is a bad connection somewhere in the wiring?

[Tri750]

likely it was loose. clean terminal, re-connect, give it a whirl

[olhogrider]

It was loose! Not the plug but the sensor itself. Not even finger tight. Snugged it up but still getting the code. Do I have to reset the computer somehow?  You guys are better than owning a shop manual.

[Arizoni]

The only thing I can find is talking about checking the ECU with a "DOL" to get an actual code readout like P0103 or such.

In a photo that shows the location of the ECU on the C5 (its in one of the triangular side pods) the picture seems to show a number of yellow things that look rather like the hook up for an OBD II .  I can't really tell if an OBD reader will hook up to this or not.

As I'm sure you know, an OBD II reader has the ability to clear the stored error codes in your car.  I wonder if it could connect to the bikes ECU and clear it the same way?

Then again, maybe only the Enfield service departments have the right "DOL" to hook up to the bikes computer?

There may be a chance of really screwing things up if a standard OBD II reader isn't compatible with the bikes computer.

added  The service manual says the computer used the engine oil temperature to determine the richness for the injector.
If it isn't getting a temp reading it is pre-set to use the cold engine ratios so I would think running the bike with the computer set for a rich mixture would, at worst, just foul you plug a bit and reduce your fuel mileage.

[olhogrider]

I have an OBD II tool but I can't see where it would plug in. Unhooking the battery like in a car did nothing. I think I would get the steady light again if it had reset and was still bad, but I don't know.

[Ducati Scotty]

OBD@ no workie   Most motorcycles still use their own proprietary systems, there's no industry standard.  Some companies make aftermarket systems but I haven't see one for the RE yet.  The factory supplied one is the only one I know of.

Scott

[t120rbullet]

The DOL tool is Keihin's proprietary software tool and the only way to reset a code in the ECU.
If the price of it is the same as it was 3 years ago I don't think many folks (if any) are going to have one.
CJ

[olhogrider]

Ok, thanks. I know I fixed the problem but I guess the dealer will have to reset the system.

[t120rbullet]

Ok, thanks. I know I fixed the problem but I guess the dealer will have to reset the system.

If the dealer has the DOL tool.

[Ducati Scotty]

Yes, the price was high even for dealers.

Scott

[jartist]

Just checking if I have the engine code thing straight:  If you get an check engine light and fix the problem the light goes out but stores the code?  If you have a new problem down the road does it store the new code over the old one or does it display both codes if you don't reset the codes?

[t120rbullet]

Just checking if I have the engine code thing straight:  If you get an check engine light and fix the problem the light goes out but stores the code?  If you have a new problem down the road does it store the new code over the old one or does it display both codes if you don't reset the codes?

It will store all the codes until erased by the DOL tool.

[Arizoni]

Just checking if I have the engine code thing straight:  If you get an check engine light and fix the problem the light goes out but stores the code?

Ahh, and therein seems to be the problem.
olhogrider seems to have found the problem (loose temperature sensor) and fixed it by tightening it back up.
The light is still on.

That assumes the problem is actually fixed though.
The fact that the temperature sensor was loose does not mean it isn't also defective.

The only way to determine that is by actually testing it by checking the resistance at several temperatures.
Even if that proves the sensor is working there still may be a loose wire somewhere.

[olhogrider]

Sorry if I wasn't clear. The light is not on but the test still shows the code. I tried shorting across the plug and got a steady red again. General wisdom is these things almost never fail. I'll have the dealer clear the code and see if it comes back.