[Superchuck]

Hey all,

Tried to ride to work today but it won't start.  Kickstart lever slips where it tightens on that toothed pin that comes out of the gearbox.  Nothing internal, just I can't get the screw tight enough to grab for more than one kick, and she's not starting in just one kick.  Took it off, wrapped some duct tape around the bolt to add some friction, but same thing.  On the second kick the lever just pushes down without cranking anything.  Anyone else have this problem?  Are the teeth around that pin from the gearbox worn down from this very event?  How can i fix this?

Thanks in advance..  damn i wish i was riding today.

chuck

[ace.cafe]

If the splines are worn off the kickstart lever, then you need to replace that.
If the splines are worn off the kickstart shaft, then you need to replace that.
Or both.

Keep them tight to avoid wear.

[Arizoni]

Superchuck
As you've discovered, duct tape and electrical tape are much too soft to do any good.

You could try wrapping several rotations of aluminum foil around the shaft  spline and then reinstalling and tightening the kick starter lever over that.

It is at best a temporary fix so while you have the lever removed check out the spline teeth as ace suggested.

If your lucky only one part will be worn.  
If your unlucky both the "kick starter" and the shaft spline teeth will be badly worn.

Another "fix" if the teeth in the "kick starter " are worn is to remove the bolt.
Then, using either a vise or a large set of adjustable pliers like Vise Grips, squeeze the slotted part of the "kick starter" down to close the gap.

Then, using a hack saw, re-saw the remaining gap with the intention of removing as much material as possible.  This will effectively widen the gap.

I only suggest this because if the "kick starter" spline teeth are worn you really should look into replacing it.

After widening the gap, re-install the bolt and tighten it down on the shaft or on the aluminum foil that is wrapped around the shaft.

[Chasfield]

Could you drill the kick start lever and shaft and pin through for a more durable fix?

If either lever or shaft is still good, with teeth intact, you might not want to do this.

[Maturin]

Another method is glueing. I had a similar problem once with the rear brake lever of an MZ 250 that was made from aluminium and very soft. After ripping off the teeth several times I glued the lever onto the shaft, using an Audi-glue designed for assembling driveshafts for front driven cars. That was a special metal glue that was even heatproof. The disadvantage: once glued you´ll never be able to remove it in a normal way. In this case you´d have to cut it up.
The advantage, however, is the possibility to repair even heavily damaged toothing. In case of my MZ it worked exellent.

[1Blackwolf1]

  Don't scrap it, JB Weld it.  You coud also go to a machine shop and get some industrial grade wicking compound, but that stuff is fairly expensive.  I'd try JB weld stick if the teeth on both are worn off.  About 7 bucks at the auto parts store.

[Ice]

 I will try to explain our method that uses a bolt in a concept of a round shaft key instead of squared.

Please read it through a few times as some days I am not the best communicator.


 Snugly but not tightly, assemble the kick start arm where you want it positioned on the kick start shaft. Ensure the kick start arm is flush with the end of the shaft.

 Using a center punch put a hefty mark right on the joint between kick start arm and the shaft located about half way between the machined split in the bottom of the arm and the the long "neck" of the arm and on the forward side.

 Assuming the Arm is mounted straight vertical at the 12 O'clock position, you could call the position of the punch mark 3 O'clock.

 Next using a steady hand, drill on this punch mark parallel to the axis of the shaft, cutting equally into both the kick start arm and the shaft to a depth that is equal to or preferably less than the thickness or inboard to out board width of the kick start arm.

 Tap this hole for a small bolt or large screw.

 NOTE select a screw size whose finished hole would not reduce the thickness of the material of the kick start arm to less than 50%

  Remove the kick start arm, thoroughly scrub the mating surfaces of both the shaft and the kicker arm with a stiff wire brush and good evaporating de greaser.

 Use red LocTite on the shaft/arm mating surfaces only. Use blue LocTite in the pinch bolt and the the key bolt you just drilled and tapped the arm/shaft for.

 Install the kick start arm on the shaft, install the key bolt followed by the pinch bolt, tighten the hardware,  ride off into the sunset.

 When in the future dis assembly is required the surface bond of the red LockTite is readily broken with a few judiciously placed raps of a plastic faced hammer.

 A small puller may be used should you not have the soft faced hammer available.

 

[single]

This is very good,Ice.

[Superchuck]

Thank you for all the great replies.  I haven't looked at it again and probably won't til later in the weekend... it's super hot out now and i'm leaving town for a wedding in the morning. 

Weird thing is that the pinch bolt of the kickstart lever was always pinched as tight as humanly possible.  Again the bike was new in february, and I remember it only doing the spin down thing once before this morning.  Nevertheless, I figure that may be enough to grind down the teeth though.

Lastly, is this something that would be covered on my warranty?  It's still on the 12,000 mi, 12 month warranty from date of purchase (feb 10, 2011).

If not, it may be time to troubleshoot my electric start system.. it's been a hell of a summer and i've got no time to do serious projects to it... maybe try ice's method if I get a cool sunday at home soon.

Thanks!

chuck

[Arizoni]

If your motorcycle is still under warranty in my opinion you would be foolish not to take advantage of it while you still can.

They should fix both your start lever problem and your electric start problem.

[1Blackwolf1]

What ^ he said.  Especially the sprag clutch, use your warranty if you have it.

[Chasfield]

I will try to explain our method that uses a bolt in a concept of a round shaft key instead of squared.

Please read it through a few times as some days I am not the best communicator.


 Snugly but not tightly, assemble the kick start arm where you want it positioned on the kick start shaft. Ensure the kick start arm is flush with the end of the shaft.

 Using a center punch put a hefty mark right on the joint between kick start arm and the shaft located about half way between the machined split in the bottom of the arm and the the long "neck" of the arm and on the forward side.

 Assuming the Arm is mounted straight vertical at the 12 O'clock position, you could call the position of the punch mark 3 O'clock.

 Next using a steady hand, drill on this punch mark parallel to the axis of the shaft, cutting equally into both the kick start arm and the shaft to a depth that is equal to or preferably less than the thickness or inboard to out board width of the kick start arm.

 Tap this hole for a small bolt or large screw.

 NOTE select a screw size whose finished hole would not reduce the thickness of the material of the kick start arm to less than 50%

  Remove the kick start arm, thoroughly scrub the mating surfaces of both the shaft and the kicker arm with a stiff wire brush and good evaporating de greaser.

 Use red LocTite on the shaft/arm mating surfaces only. Use blue LocTite in the pinch bolt and the the key bolt you just drilled and tapped the arm/shaft for.

 Install the kick start arm on the shaft, install the key bolt followed by the pinch bolt, tighten the hardware,  ride off into the sunset.

 When in the future dis assembly is required the surface bond of the red LockTite is readily broken with a few judiciously placed raps of a plastic faced hammer.

 A small puller may be used should you not have the soft faced hammer available.

 

This is a good fix.

Drilling end on into the assembly beats my idea of lateral drilling and pinning. Ice's method is going to give a large area of mechanical interference which should have the strength of a Woodruff key. I reckon a fairly small screw diameter is all that is needed (since it is subjected only to compressive rather than shear forces) which won't compromise the strength of the kick start lever too much.

[Superchuck]

Great, well thanks again as always guys, 

I'm going out to take a look at it and see if the teeth are stripped down.  I'll also call this one local shop and try and schedule some warranty work.  E/S problem isn't the sprag luckily, cause it works sometimes, just not usually!

chuck

[1Blackwolf1]

  Actually that's how my electric start worked with a busted sprag gear.  So wise choice in letting the dealer look at it if you have remaining warranty.

[Superchuck]

So icontacted cmw today and found out that the nearest dealer or shop for warranty work is in fact 100mi away, so I'm not going to be taking it there.  Another gracious forumite offered me his old kicker for cost of shipping and luckily as it turns out the kickers all that was stripped!

So as soon as it arrives ill be back and rolling. Kevin said we may be able to work something out at some point but this sounds like the easy way.  I'm due for a primary oil change so I'll look closer at the sprag when I do.

In the meantime what are my pros and cons to clamping on a vice grip for temporary kicker use?  Don't do it?

Thanks all!

Chuck