Author Topic: clutch rod adjustment  (Read 3744 times)

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neil

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on: September 18, 2013, 08:42:29 pm
Hi Fellow bulleteers;
I have posted many times on this website both to give my opinion and to seek help. This is one asking for help. I recently opened the primary case and found the primary chain well adjusted. During the next few days I removed the clutch hub and drive sprocket I've bought a new clutch hub circlip and have tried to get things back together. The clutch rod is locked up and I can't turn it to make any adjustment. Before you post, I've removed the short rod and ball bearing. Even with the spring retainer cap off and the discs off the hub, and of course the adjusting locknut very loose, I can't turn the rod to adjust it. Any ideas as to why the long rod is locked up and resists turning. I've been able to adjust it in the past and it has turned easily with a sharp slot screwdriver. I've also backed off on the handle bar and gearbox adjusters so there is no tension on the cable. W/D 40 into the right side to free it up ? Is it way out of adjustment or dry in the shaft in which it turns for adjustment? Yes the locknut is turned way out so it is not holding the end of the long adjustment rod.
Pity, this is the best time for riding in NH.

Neil and Buzzy the Bullet


Blltrdr

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Reply #1 on: September 18, 2013, 09:31:18 pm
Have you removed the clutch rods to examine them. You should have two clutch rods with the ball bearing between them and then the clutch rod pad on your clutch side. It is possible that the two rods have fused themselves which could cause you problems. First thing I would do is see if you can remove them. I would slide a rod or wire from the clutch side pushing them out the gearbox side. Hopefully there is no problem with them. If they did fuse together you might be able to get them apart and clean up the ends. and reinstall. Just remember to assemble with the ball bearing between the two rods. Ace has suggested using a ceramic ball bearing in place of the steel one. Proper adjustment of the clutch and not holding the clutch in for long periods of time will alleviate most issues.
« Last Edit: September 18, 2013, 09:48:43 pm by Blltrdr »
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neil

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Reply #2 on: September 18, 2013, 10:13:38 pm
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't know how to get the long rod out. The two rods are not fused. I've removed the short rod and ball bearing. I've also turned the locknut so loose that it nearly falls off. still, the long rod will not turn. I'm beginning to think it is twisted or bent. I'm not sure how that could happen but I'll try to push it out from the clutch side and take a look at it if I can get it out.


Afro Samurai

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Reply #3 on: September 19, 2013, 01:00:59 am
Ball between the rods...or ball between the primarmary side short rod and rod....

I have seen graphic dipictions both ways....wven saw one showing one long rod and one ball..and another with 2 balls.

Is a potential mod or improvement to shirten the clutch side short rod and put a ball at each location?...

Seems like having every rod with a ball between them along with the small roller pad should kill this issue once and for all... thus allowing the ability to hold the clutch at a light with no chance of seizing the rods up.......


ace.cafe

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Reply #4 on: September 19, 2013, 01:04:48 am
Ball between the rods...or ball between the primarmary side short rod and rod....

I have seen graphic dipictions both ways....wven saw one showing one long rod and one ball..and another with 2 balls.

Is a potential mod or improvement to shirten the clutch side short rod and put a ball at each location?...

Seems like having every rod with a ball between them along with the small roller pad should kill this issue once and for all... thus allowing the ability to hold the clutch at a light with no chance of seizing the rods up.......

Using a ceramic ball precludes the possibility of friction welding because the ceramic ball is not metal, and cannot be welded to the rod. We have been using this for at least two years, and it is working well. However, it does not allow holding the clutch in at stoplights because the clutch plates still drag and heat up and warp.
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Blltrdr

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Reply #5 on: September 19, 2013, 01:16:45 am
Ball between the rods...or ball between the primarmary side short rod and rod....

I have seen graphic dipictions both ways....wven saw one showing one long rod and one ball..and another with 2 balls.

Is a potential mod or improvement to shirten the clutch side short rod and put a ball at each location?...

Seems like having every rod with a ball between them along with the small roller pad should kill this issue once and for all... thus allowing the ability to hold the clutch at a light with no chance of seizing the rods up.......

There could be a problem shortening the rod end. If you notice the bluing on the rod from heat treating. If you cut or grind the rod it might weaken the metal. I'm not sure of this but someone could chime in. A possibility is to shorten the clutch rod pad. I don't remember seeing any heat treating on that part. But even if you do have a ball between each rod you still have the operator assy stud. Are you going to put a ball between it and the rod?
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Blltrdr

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Reply #6 on: September 19, 2013, 01:20:35 am
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't know how to get the long rod out. The two rods are not fused. I've removed the short rod and ball bearing. I've also turned the locknut so loose that it nearly falls off. still, the long rod will not turn. I'm beginning to think it is twisted or bent. I'm not sure how that could happen but I'll try to push it out from the clutch side and take a look at it if I can get it out.

I think you are a bit confused on the configuration. Are using a manual? Her is a diagram.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


Afro Samurai

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Reply #7 on: September 19, 2013, 01:30:09 am
Other pics will show the bearing right next to the short rod....
And I just installed the needle bearing version of part 22 from hitchcocks...

But yes...just a thought of shortening it more to allow a ball at each interface...allowing 2 balks in the system with those rollers...has to be a golden idea...even with 2 ceram balls if thats even better..

Looking for the diagram now
« Last Edit: September 19, 2013, 01:37:34 am by Afro Samurai »


Blltrdr

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Reply #8 on: September 19, 2013, 01:33:29 am
Show me. Inquiring mind want to know.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


Blltrdr

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Reply #9 on: September 19, 2013, 01:36:20 am
I just looked at the diagram for a 4spd clutch and it shows it between the rod and the rod pad like you suggest. I'm sure it doesn't matter that much as long as it is in there.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


D the D

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Reply #10 on: September 19, 2013, 01:46:15 am
If the ball's purpose is to be a bearing and reduce drag between the right side #21 and #22 (clutch pad), then it shouldn't matter too much if it's between the two # 21s or between the middle #21 and the clutch pad as long as it's in there.
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