[barenekd]

Just ran across another little quibble with the "service manual". Trying to figure out how the clutch actuator works on the EFI engines. I'm familiar with a lot of different clutches including the iron barrels, but the "service manual" doesn't have any illustration of how the clutch actuator works. I guess I have to pull the primary case off if I really want to know badly enough. Is there any other adjustment other than the cable? Doesn't look like it.
Bare

[Maturin]

I may quote:
"The clutch system has a seven plate construction to achieve increase effective diameter and improved torque carrying capacity.
The clutch is operated through a lever on the cover LH:"

Apart from a exploded diagram that shows only the clutch that´s all in the "Service Manual". Any questions? 

Bare, I agree completely with you that this publication is not quite cutting it. But as long the clutch works - don´t think about it. 

[barenekd]

It's not so much that I was worried about the clutch. I've no doubt I could fix it easily if something were to happen to it. It's just the idea of the manual being so incomplete. If I want to explain how it works to someone, I shouldn't have to tear my bike apart to see what's happening when I spent a ridiculous amount of money for a  "service manual." I gotten one for several of the bikes I've owned, but seldom had to use one in battle, but if I wanted to know how some piece worked in there, I expect to be about to find out!
As an A&P Mechanic, there is a requirement that you have the service manual at hand when you are working on something ad I'll guarantee there is someplace to find how anything works!
Most motorcycle manuals have the same info.
Bare

[Ducati Scotty]

The factory manual is similarly lacking on the fork disassembly details

Scott

[Arizoni]

I don't know about your service manual but pages 5-21 thru 5-24 shows the clutch removal and disassemble in mine.

I will admit things are a bit vague but it appears the vertical clutch shaft that the cable attaches to has a flat at the bottom which pushes against a short rod which in turn pushes against a bearing.  The bearing acting thru a cup pushes against the driven housing which releases the spring pressure on the clutch plates.

[BRADEY]

Arizoni has described it very nicely, except for a slight error.

When the clutch is engaged (in drive) the vertical rod (which is mounted on the LH cover and is attached to the cable, and has a spring action) has a slight recess/gap facing the small rod connected to the clutch basket.

When you pull in the clutch lever, the recessed part turns in the opposite direction which brings the unrecessed part towards the clutch rod. This pushes the rod inside, which releases the clutch from the drive.

If I am adjusting the clutch play, I ensure there is a very very slight play on the lever which sits on LH cover. This ensures some gap between the two rods when the clutch is in drive. This arrangement however leads to a 6 mm gap at the handle bar lever.

Request the Grand GearHeads to Correct me if I am wrong....cause I am always happy to learn. Thanks

[barenekd]

Duh, what exactly is it pushing on to release the pressure. The old clutch used to push from the other side against the pressure plate. This one looks like it would have to pull the pressure plate to release it!? I still am missing something here.
The point is that I could dig into the clutch and see how it works, but since I am basically too lazy to do that without provocation, but since I spent a lot of money on this "service manual" I would expect the answer to be there instead of having to tear the bike apart, which I could have done without spending the bucks. I guess this book is the rant for the week! I could probably ask the mechanic at the shop, but that's a 100 mile round trip, too, although far more pleasant than jacking around with this book.
Thank you guys for the assistance, though. It's nice to know that youse guys are out there.
Bare

[singhg5]

Arizoni has described it very nicely, except for a slight error.

When the clutch is engaged (in drive) the vertical rod (which is mounted on the LH cover and is attached to the cable, and has a spring action) has a slight recess/gap facing the small rod connected to the clutch basket.

When you pull in the clutch lever, the recessed part turns in the opposite direction which brings the unrecessed part towards the clutch rod. This pushes the rod inside, which releases the clutch from the drive.

If I am adjusting the clutch play, I ensure there is a very very slight play on the lever which sits on LH cover. This ensures some gap between the two rods when the clutch is in drive. This arrangement however leads to a 6 mm gap at the handle bar lever.

Request the Grand GearHeads to Correct me if I am wrong....cause I am always happy to learn. Thanks

From your explanation, if I understand it correctly that the clutch operating lever (vertical rod in LH crankcase) acts like a drum brake cam - with perhaps slight difference. Near the bottom, this rod is cut vertically to a flat surface on one side and the other half is left round - which pushes the clutch push pad when the lever rotates.  Is that what you mean by recess ?

My other question is - if you leave 6 mm free play at the handlebar clutch lever, it will not be possible to shift gear even if the hand lever is pulled all the way in - as far as I can tell from my G5. The owner's manual states 2 - 3 mm free play as shown in the picture below.    

Where are you measuring this 6 mm ?  Are you measuring the distance travelled at the tip of handlebar clutch lever before it engages ?

[Arizoni]

I am sure each bike is different. 
When mine for instance is very slightly "loose" down at the connection between the cable end and the sheet metal bracket on the clutch actuating shaft there is about 1/8" of free travel on my clutch lever before the clutch starts to resist the movement.
This would seem to be very slightly greater than the 3mm the book suggests however the clutch is releasing nicely and shifting is not a problem.

I think the bottom line is that there should be a slight amount of "free travel" before the actuating shaft starts to put any load onto the clutch throwout bearing but with the clutch lever fully pulled,  the clutch must fully disengage to allow the gears to shift.

[BRADEY]

I think Singhg5 has got it correctly. The rod mounted on the LH cover is slightly flat on the side facing the clutch push pad (which is like a small rod), which creates a gap between the two rods when the clutch is engaged in drive.

However when actuated at the hadle bar lever, it rotates this rod 180 degrees, which brings the rounded surface of the rod in contact with clutch push pad rod. This pushes the clutch basket in sufficiently to free it from the drive (UCE clutches are pushed in, compared to Iron barrels where the clutch basket was pushed out through a rod from the RH side of the bike). This flat groove is cut in the center of the rod mounted on the LH cover and not at it's bottom, because the two ends must be completely round to act as pivots for the rod to rotate.

The 6mm free play on my bike is in the clutch lever as shown in the photo by Singhg5. I feel this would avoid clutch slip. As for shifting my upshifts are very smooth, however downshift are sometimes a little difficult........let me know if I can correct this.

[barenekd]

I don't understand how the hell the clutch can be released by pushing anywhere on it. This release mechanism is similar to a 675 Triumph and the rod is pulling the pressure plate.
Unfortunately, the photos in the manual do not show how anything works as far as the connections between the rod and whatever it is actuating goes.

The 6mm free play on my bike is in the clutch lever as shown in the photo by Singhg5. I feel this would avoid clutch slip. As for shifting my upshifts are very smooth, however downshift are sometimes a little difficult........let me know if I can correct this.

Did you say 6mm free play on your clutch. Mine is 2 -3 mm. Works fine.
Bare 

[singhg5]

Unfortunately, the photos in the manual do not show how anything works as far as the connections between the rod and whatever it is actuating goes.

Bare:

I put together this combo picture below, from different photos, that may clarify what it looks like visually.

[barenekd]

Still can't tell what it's pushing on!
Bare

[singhg5]

Still can't tell what it's pushing on!
Bare

A homemade model, below -

[BRADEY]

BARENEKD
I think the home made example by Singhg5 is absolutely wonderful.
If you still can't get it (which happens with all of us at times), then you gotta disect the LH cover......may be some pictures from your side will settle this issue forever.

[barenekd]

It's not what's pushing the rod that's the problem. What is the rod pushing on inside the clutch. It looks like it should be pulling the pressure plate up compressing the springs, but apparently it's pushing on something else.
Anyway that's what it does on the Triumph.
I'm sure someday I'll get to look at one, but I don't think I'll tear mine apart to check it, it's really not that big a deal. Just curious.
Bare

[t120rbullet]

Think of a iron barrel clutch turned around backwards. The rod the cable is attached to pushes a pin that is centered in a bearing and the pressure plate is in the back.
Pretty industrial strength springs too. If you take the clutch pack apart plan on making a compressor tool to get it back together.
If you wish I could dig up a few pics of it tomorrow.
CJ

[barenekd]

Thank you. I can understand how it works if the pressure plate is in the back. That certainly isn't clear in the manual.
Bare