Author Topic: Common bolts and wires that become loose or frayed. (Read 4692 times)

mikesince1974 · **on:** June 11, 2011, 03:40:55 pm

   Hi everyone,

   After riding a bit and having a few bolts come loose and the rear light harness almost rub in two on the back tire, I see that a few of these problem are common to these bikes. I don't blame R.E. on this, I think it's just the nature of the beast.

  I worked out a simple equation to visualize the problem.

   vibration+bolts+wiring = small problems

   Does anyone have any suggestions of bolts and problem areas to keep an eye on?

   thanks, mikey

  -off work, gonna ride!!!

Sub · **Reply #1 on:** June 11, 2011, 04:00:00 pm

This will be a good thread! I think its a good idea to formalize it a bit and kept it short and concise (ie factual stuff and minimal banter) so its easier to digest later as the thread gets larger. Here is the suggested format:

Problem:
Identifying conditions:
What happened:
Solution:

Here are my contributions:

Problem: bike gently stopped running while at stop light
Identifying conditions: starter solenoid wouldnt click, no fuel pump on key turn, blew forward most 20amp fuse in fuse box.
What happened: small wire bundle behind the fuse block was fraying on the inside rear compartment edge.
Solution: pulled it away and recovered the tiny wires and the bike started. Added edge protection to that area of the fuse box.

Problem: rear brake light on constantly
Identifying conditions: steady light
What happened: I adjusted the rear brake height but forgot to adjust the switch that activates the brake light
Solution: adjust switch engagement point

Problem: rear brake light and driving light went out
Identifying conditions: front or rear brake would not activate the light
What happened: the connector above the rear fender came loose on its own.
Solution: just plug it back in and zip tie or tape it together

Problem: Bouncy speedometer
Identifying conditions: after 10 or so miles at highway speeds, the speedo bounces around +/-5 mph of actual speed
What happened: The cable gets hot and binds
Solution: lubricate the speedo cable and tighten the nuts at the dash and just above the hub. Also make sure the cable is entering each area properly/straight.

Problem: really annoying rattle just around the gas tank towards the front
Identifying conditions: rattle initiates at medium to high rpm
What happened: The large forward most bolt that holds the gas tank on was loosening
Solution: I also removed the bolt and added some foam rubber insulation over the backbone of the frame under the tank. Added blue loctite and tightened the bolt back up quite tight.

Andy · **Reply #2 on:** June 11, 2011, 05:44:12 pm

The mounting hardware on the air and fuse boxes needs loc-titing.

Maturin · **Reply #3 on:** June 11, 2011, 06:22:59 pm

Ignition coil cables, battery cables and all the wires stuffed underneath the battery cover are prone to fraying. The metal cover itself acts as a blade, especially the upper front edge. The wires can be either protected by bending the cover to the inside or adding an rubber edge protector as used for fairings. It´s quite narrow there so I tend to bending, or even cutting away one cm.
The cables coming out of the ignition coil can rub on several things: other wires, the gas pipe or the said cover. IMO it´s a faulty design because the coil is attached 2 cm too high. There is a step in the rubber bracket to insure it´s position, but by applying some force it´s possible to bring it down a bit and make it harder to rub on anything.
On the right side there are a couple of connectors that are supplying the injection - if one of them gets loose, the engine first misfires and afterwards quits completely.
In term of bolts I found no special dangers except the exaust and silencer. Precious obviously want´s to get rid of the complete instalation pronto - maybe she feels restricted

singhg5 · **Reply #4 on:** June 11, 2011, 06:44:47 pm

Quote from: Maturin on June 11, 2011, 06:22:59 pm

The cables coming out of the ignition coil can rub on several things: other wires, the gas pipe or the said cover.

You mean starter relay close to the battery and a gas line - that looks like this ?

barenekd · **Reply #5 on:** June 11, 2011, 06:56:30 pm

I heard a little rattle behind me the first time I started my bike and would hear it occasionally after that. Whilst changing the muffler, I noticed that one of the heat shiled screws was missing. I have heard of people losing the whole shield.

Problem: Heat shield rattling.
Cure: Tighten or replace missing heat shield screws

Bare

mikesince1974 · **Reply #6 on:** June 11, 2011, 07:03:36 pm

Problem-Left turn signal started coming on when the brakes were applied. Eventually. lost brake light completely.

Solution- Discovered rear light wiring harness had developed slack and was drooping against the rear tire. This broke two of the four wires leading to the back. I soldered/ heat-shrinked the offending wires back together, this action took up the extra slack.

I want to add that the wires didn't come loose from the metal tabs that hold them in place, the slack comes from excess in the light assembly. To check yours, gently tug at the harness where it goes into the grommet on the rear fender.

Note: I went by my dealer today and spoke to him about it, We checked out all the bikes he had, every one of them could have possibly done the same thing, (He's going to fix them before they leave).

Problem- Front fender rattling.

Solution- Tighten the eight phillps head screws that hold it on (G-5 Deluxe). You'll need a 10mm wrench to keep the backing nut from spinning.

-mikey

Maturin · **Reply #7 on:** June 11, 2011, 07:52:23 pm

Quote from: singhg5 on June 11, 2011, 06:44:47 pm

You mean starter relay close to the battery and a gas line - that looks like this ?

Good photo - the same mess in my case. The thing with the two rubber caps, of whom the rear one is pressed by the gas pipe, is the ignition coil. One of the cables makes a hard turn to battery plus - this was frayed in my case. I have to add that I don´t have these fancy rubber caps - I´m green with envy

Its also possible to shove it a litttle deeper into the rubber bracket - in my case it was easier to clean up then.

r80rt · **Reply #8 on:** June 11, 2011, 07:59:05 pm

The thing pictured with two rubber caps is the starter relay. The coil is under the gas tank, follow your spark plug wire to the ignition coil.

Maturin · **Reply #9 on:** June 11, 2011, 08:44:18 pm

Quote from: r80rt on June 11, 2011, 07:59:05 pm

The thing pictured with two rubber caps is the starter relay. The coil is under the gas tank, follow your spark plug wire to the ignition coil.

You and Singh are right. That´s the starter relay. So I learned that not everything that is round and has cables sticking out is an ignition coil

r80rt · **Reply #10 on:** June 11, 2011, 09:00:58 pm

Now you won't have any trouble ordering parts if it quits working

perri · **Reply #11 on:** June 12, 2011, 12:55:13 pm

penso che il problema sia simile a questo

http://www.royalenfieldowners.it/threads/694-l-ho-smontata

Alan LaRue · **Reply #12 on:** November 17, 2011, 12:36:11 am

My speedometer needle started bouncing around today (still under 1000 miles) and I remembered reading this thread. Guess it's time to learn to lube a speedo cable! Doesn't seem too difficult.

Arizoni · **Reply #13 on:** November 17, 2011, 12:48:20 am

I greased mine by removing the lower knurled nut and then pulling the inner cable out.

The toughest part was getting the cable to re-enter the speedometer drive square and even this wasn't difficult.

I just kept turning the cable slightly each try and after a few minutes I added some colorful language. That did the trick and it slid right up into place.

Desi Bike · **Reply #14 on:** November 17, 2011, 12:55:08 am

just dont get lube on the top end of the cable, it can work its way into the speedo head and gum it up for good.

Sub · **Reply #15 on:** November 17, 2011, 01:25:14 am

Yup, easy fix, I did it too... no more bouncy speedo!

Alan LaRue · **Reply #16 on:** November 17, 2011, 05:50:10 am

Did it. Wow, much easier than I expected!

Sub · **Reply #17 on:** November 17, 2011, 02:55:02 pm

Quote from: Alan LaRue on November 17, 2011, 05:50:10 am

Did it. Wow, much easier than I expected!

Thats the thing about this bike.. there are some niggles, but most of them are really easy to work on because the bike is simple. Its also mildly fun to fix! Enjoy that satisfaction of knowing it was done right!

Alan LaRue · **Reply #18 on:** November 17, 2011, 03:06:25 pm

The knurled nut at the wheel was a bit loose, and I found that the last 1" or so of the cable seemed a bit dry (not the part that goes into the drive, but the cable itself). I don't know whether it dried out because the nut was loose, or if whoever lubed it at the factory didn't quite get to the end of the cable.

barenekd · **Reply #19 on:** November 17, 2011, 06:12:23 pm

Quote

The toughest part was getting the cable to re-enter the speedometer drive square and even this wasn't difficult.

Try rotating the wheel while you're pushing the end in. Of course, you have to get the front wheel off the ground first.
Bare

Ducati Scotty · **Reply #20 on:** November 17, 2011, 07:44:14 pm

Make greasing the speedo cable something you do at every oil change. If it was leaking grease at the wheel fitting you'd see it all over the area. I find that fitting comes loose quite easily so I give mine a good turn with a pair of pliers.

Scott

bebopper · **Reply #21 on:** November 18, 2011, 04:19:04 am

The first bolts to come loose on mine were the two bolts that secure the headstock lock. A little lock-tite and no more problem.