Author Topic: C5 Fork Tutorial  (Read 56208 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

D the D

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,174
  • Karma: 0
Reply #105 on: June 27, 2013, 02:12:58 am
The US totally got the boring name scheme.
Japanese cars used to be named after flowers.  I think the numbers appeal to a wider demographic than teenage girls.  ;D

Motul is a premium fork oil.  The seals will be happier with it as well you should have less "stiction" as people call it.
« Last Edit: June 27, 2013, 02:15:14 am by D the D »
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


JVS

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,509
  • Karma: 0
  • I love chicken
Reply #106 on: June 27, 2013, 04:43:09 am
Well done mattsz!
Sons continuing wars, our fathers were enemies



mattsz

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 5,525
  • Karma: 0
  • moto-gurdyist
Reply #107 on: June 27, 2013, 09:47:47 am
Well done mattsz!

Wait for it, JVS - I still have to put it back together...  ;D


mattsz

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 5,525
  • Karma: 0
  • moto-gurdyist
Reply #108 on: June 27, 2013, 06:08:24 pm
The job is done - it was easy with Scotty's written help!  The only thing I would add is a modifier to my modifier - I still ended up chewing up my clutch cable housing a little bit...  even the electric tape I wrapped around the allen wrench got mucked up, as you'll see in the photo.  The two cables that come through the left side opening of the nacelle really impinge on the space the tool needs to turn.

I finally sussed it during reassembly.  I tied the clutch cable forward, toward the headlight - that separated the two cables for a little more clearance.  I threw all the protective rags away, and replaced them with a roughly 1"x3" piece of aluminum flashing with some tape on the bottom to protect the nacelle's paint, and bent into a U around the opening.  Problem really solved - I can see what I'm doing, and the cables are well protected:



As for the job?  Keep in mind that this is, for all intents and purposes, my first bike, and I've only been riding a year... if I hold the front brake and push the front end down, I think it's smoother than before, but honestly, I really don't notice a difference while riding.  Same thing with my Hagon rear shock replacement - it looks better, but it doesn't feel any different.  Like I said before, it's a good experience, and hopefully I've improved the bike's handling ability for safety's sake, but it feels like the same ride to me. 

I was more careful about collecting the old oil from the second fork; I managed to grab almost 190ml from it - maybe simply having near the right quantity of oil was enough.  If so, I can't imagine what bad shocks must be like...


Ducati Scotty

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 7,038
  • Karma: 0
  • 2010 Teal C5
Reply #109 on: June 27, 2013, 06:15:12 pm
The righ quantity is most important.  It creates an air space of known size that acts as a progressive spring.  Too little oil = too much air = too soft a spring, and it tends to bottom on hard stops and wallow in corners.  Better quality oil of a good viscosity matters too and will last longer and perform better but quantity is key.

Job well done!

Scott


heloego

  • A 2x4. My kingdom for a 2x4!
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 2,498
  • Karma: 0
  • USA '12 C5, '06 ElectraX
Reply #110 on: July 02, 2013, 06:49:00 am
Quote
Then again, the manuals I love the most are the ones I have with all the greased up, dog eared pages.  Still something to be said for paper.

Scottie: Yeah, even though I build my own I still don't have complete faith in any computer, regardless of format. Fantastic job on the tutorial, and many thanks in advance for when I do it!

mattsz: Beautiful job putting that tutorial into a .pdf!! I now have it on portable drive, and printed/added to my manuals, so I'm covered. And good thinking re the aluminum shield for the job! Thanks!
'18 Bonneville T-100, Blue/White
'12 C5 Classic
'06 Electra X AVL w/32mm Mikuni and Gold Star system.


decker

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 150
  • Karma: 0
Reply #111 on: May 10, 2014, 03:45:04 pm
 :( Before I read this excellent article on fork removal I had my bike in for some other minor maintenance. Mentioned that I was thinking of changing the fork oil. The helpful mechanic at the shop assured me it was easy and he would do it for me as the front wheel was going to be removed. he then proceeded to try and removed the drain plug at the bottom of the forks. He found they  were really tight so he gave the left side bolt a good wack with a hammer to loosen it. Can now hear what appears to be something inside the forks turning as the bottom bolt is turned. I'm a bit pissed off and concerned that  he broke something inside the forks. Any one have any knowledge as to whether he might have broken something inside. No leaks showing and it still seems to be working fine but I'm concerned anyway. never did get the forks off and the oil changed.
"Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry."
Honda cx 500 custom - stolen
Honda 450 twin - traded up
Honda 650 nighthawk - blown up
Honda Goldwing 77- restored/ traded up
Bmw F650gs - sold to buy
2013 RE G5 Deluxe- last bike?


azcatfan

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 525
  • Karma: 0
  • 2002 Bullet ES
Reply #112 on: May 10, 2014, 04:01:54 pm
:( Before I read this excellent article on fork removal I had my bike in for some other minor maintenance. Mentioned that I was thinking of changing the fork oil. The helpful mechanic at the shop assured me it was easy and he would do it for me as the front wheel was going to be removed. he then proceeded to try and removed the drain plug at the bottom of the forks. He found they  were really tight so he gave the left side bolt a good wack with a hammer to loosen it. Can now hear what appears to be something inside the forks turning as the bottom bolt is turned. I'm a bit pissed off and concerned that  he broke something inside the forks. Any one have any knowledge as to whether he might have broken something inside. No leaks showing and it still seems to be working fine but I'm concerned anyway. never did get the forks off and the oil changed.

Snug it up with a cordless impact driver.  I had the same thing when I changed my fork oil and a couple of bumps with the impact driver did the trick.  I read the recommendation somewhere else on this forum.
-2002 Bullet ES Up-Jetted with Ace Air Canister and punched HD Exhaust.

My MotoVlog Channel:  http://tinyurl.com/nnso3av


decker

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 150
  • Karma: 0
Reply #113 on: May 11, 2014, 01:43:34 am
 :D ;D Thanks for the tip.
"Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry."
Honda cx 500 custom - stolen
Honda 450 twin - traded up
Honda 650 nighthawk - blown up
Honda Goldwing 77- restored/ traded up
Bmw F650gs - sold to buy
2013 RE G5 Deluxe- last bike?


pmanaz1973

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 729
  • Karma: 0
Reply #114 on: October 06, 2014, 05:49:53 am
Sorry for dusting this one off, but I just wanted to get a bit of clarity here before I dive in on my project-  What was the final verdict on the oil amount per leg - 180ml, 190ml or 195ml? 

I plan on using Bel-Ray 10W Fork Oil, so I suspect viscosity has no bearing on volume.

Bike is a 2014 C5, so I'll see if there is any "upgrades" once I tear into it.

This is an amazing tutorial by the way - great work Scott!
1984 XL350R
1991 XR250L
1976 Harley XLH 1000
1993 CBR 600
1976 Norton Commando 850
1972 BMW R75/5
2014 Royal Enfield C5


Ducati Scotty

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 7,038
  • Karma: 0
  • 2010 Teal C5
Reply #115 on: October 06, 2014, 08:26:48 am
I used 195 and never had any issues, and the fork felt good.  195 is 5ml down from 200.  I heard/read that at 200ml some people were blowing seals.

Scott


classicrider

  • Scooter
  • **
  • Posts: 30
  • Karma: 0
Reply #116 on: April 26, 2015, 01:48:14 am
I've just drained the fork legs,without removing them.By unscrewing the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork leg and pressing it up,apparently unseats the springstud and lets oil bypass.So no removing fork legs,it is a little messy but a stick the correct length will hold it up while you go about other business.


caricabasso

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 149
  • Karma: 0
Reply #117 on: April 26, 2015, 08:11:26 am
The fork legs must be disassembled, and the other elements to clean the sludge that settles.
Remove only the lower bolt (confused as drain plug) is not convenient because it keeps pumping and it is difficult then reassemble it correctly.
these photos you can see the sludge after three years and 40,000 kilometers,

pumping:



a leg was devoid of O-rings on the screw cap top:



Amount of oil extracted from a stem, about 150 cc very dirty



to unscrew the top cap I soldered hexagon threaded rod (I had nothing better!) with a diameter less coated with electrical tape.



After washing all parts with kerosene I remounted the fork legs putting 200 cc oil as prescribed on the maintenance book.
The difference is noticeable and long after this job!



SteveThackery

  • Inveterate tinkerer
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,469
  • Karma: 0
  • "If it ain't broke, keep fixing it until it is."
Reply #118 on: April 26, 2015, 09:07:03 am
Sorry if this is a daft question, but are the forks on my 2014 B5 the same as those on this C5?
Meteor 350

Previous:
'14 B5
'06 ElectraX (Good bike, had no trouble at all)
'02 500ES (Fully "Hitchcocked" - 535, cams, piston, etc - and still a piece of junk)

...plus loads of other bikes: German, British, Japanese, Italian, East European.


JVS

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,509
  • Karma: 0
  • I love chicken
Reply #119 on: April 26, 2015, 09:57:29 am
Sorry if this is a daft question, but are the forks on my 2014 B5 the same as those on this C5?

Most likely. Just unscrew the very top fork screws and have a look. If you see the 12mm hex cap inside (as seen in the 2nd photo above), then you'll have to remove the legs to change the oil.

To this day, I have been unable to unscrew the 12mm hex cap. Bloody thing is jammed so tight LoL.
Sons continuing wars, our fathers were enemies