[Arizoni]

If you mean you don't feel any strong resistance that would indicate the piston is on its compression stroke that is because the UCE has a built in compression release system.
This compression release keeps the exhaust valve slightly open below 700 rpm.

The valve is closed enough to allow some compression at starting speeds so the fuel/air mixture will fire.

[jartist]

On center stand I have tried to push through and have met NO resistance.
Is this normal...  It seems to be intermittent.  I have gotten the first kick once or twice.  When i slide right through the travel it almost feels as if it's not engaged... 

You aren't pulling the clutch in, are you?

[FiRE Comms]

it's almost as if the lever is just spinning, how many kicks does it take to bring the cylinder around 1 cycle?  To be honest I can't remember if I was pulling the clutch or not...

[jartist]

The kickstart lever works on the transmission side of the clutch so it's bike in neutral and don't use the clutch when kickstarting. I use the bistarter lever thingy and slowly kick the bike through until I find the spot where there's the most resistance and then stand up and kick and varoom! Or, if no one's around, the starter button works too 

[FiRE Comms]

The kickstart lever works on the transmission side of the clutch so it's bike in neutral and don't use the clutch when kickstarting. I use the bistarter lever thingy and slowly kick the bike through until I find the spot where there's the most resistance and then stand up and kick and varoom! Or, if no one's around, the starter button works too 

+1 ok thanks for the procedure...  I bet I've been holding the clutch...

[barenekd]

You might have to push it through a couple of times with the kick starter to find the hard spot. That's the automatic compression release doing its thing. When you hit the hard spot, bring the kick starter up and kick it hard. It should go on the first kick.
Bare

[bman734]

I've also had periodic problems starting with the starter. I'll try some of the techniques related here. I've also had the clutch jerk when going into first with a cold bike, thanks for the tip on that one too. Any one had problems with it wanting to stall at idle when not fully warmed up? Mine does that all the time until I've run it for almost half an hour. Very annoying and I'll ask the dealer about it when I take it in for my first service.

[Arizoni]

Mine had a habit of stalling.
The idle seemed to me to be set rather fast and the computer seemed to be constantly trying to adjust the speed with it speeding up and slowing down while waiting at a light.
If the wait was very long the slow down cycle seemed to just keep on slowing until it would die.

Changing the spark plug to a NGK BPR6ES seemed to help a little but this was due to increasing the idle speed a bit.  The computer still seemed to be searching for the right fuel mixture.

I turned the brass idle adjustment screw in (clockwise) 1/4 turn which slowed the idle down to something that sounded better to me.
The computer seems to be happy with the revised slower speed too and it does not try to frinkle with the mixture as much now.
When waiting at a long traffic light occasionally the engine does start to slow down and if I don't "blip" the throttle just a tad it sometimes still dies but this is getting to be easy to predict by the sound and to avoid with a slight twist of the throttle grip.

[prof_stack]

With the NGK plug in place and now over 2k miles, my C5 no longer threatens to stall at stop signs.  The idle is much more consistent.

[Ice]

With the NGK plug in place and now over 2k miles, my C5 no longer threatens to stall at stop signs.  The idle is much more consistent.

And with that SuhWEEeet up-swept exhaust it sounds FANTASTIC  !!! 

[bman734]

I've been using the same technique and have not had any stalling but I'm sure after break in and with some more first hand "feel" for this bike, all will be good. Damn I love this bike!

[Sub]

Ya after a few more days with the new plug, its definitely an improvement everywhere. The idle did step up a hundred or so rpm at idle but I havent changed it yet. It still does drop to a slow thump at stop lights after about a minute, so I didnt want to play with it yet.

The bike feels a tad snappier and faster, and I can fully blip on the down shift and there is no hiccuping or stuttering - before I couldnt do it at all really. the bit just feels more alive.

I also put larger grips on the bike and perfectly adjusted the throttle cables by removing as much slack as I could (making sure that fully turned bars didnt raise the idle still), and it feels like a different bike. Its much easier to ride and modulate.

[bman734]

I've been down shifting during  break in. Nothing too extreme. I'm assuming I'm not harming anything. My theory is that you should break it in similar to how you're going to ride it after it's broken in period.