Author Topic: Cracked and Ripped Insulation of Wires  (Read 6718 times)

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singhg5

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on: April 28, 2011, 09:46:27 pm
Recently I have seen cracks at many places on the insulation of wires.  The one attached to crank position sensor was badly ripped.  The one on starter motor was just beginning to show a few small ones.  There were more spread along the wires on many places.

These rubber / vinyl insulations on the electric wires and tubes may be at the end of their life.  They just went south by the time the 2 year warranty expired - genetically coded in the design  ;)? I think dry, cold weather might have dried up these parts and they start to fall apart.  Perhaps they also need some protective coating throughout the year to prolong their life.  
« Last Edit: April 28, 2011, 11:23:13 pm by singhg5 »
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5


GreenMachine

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Reply #1 on: April 28, 2011, 10:09:06 pm
yeah i started to notice the rubber boots on a few connections starting to deteriorate to the point that I really should look into replacing them...the battery boots are shot but still in place and the top of the carb has a bit of a crack/ tear at the opening where the throttle cable enters...while i am at it the starter connection could use a update..as u can c the older machines have the same problems..be Nice if cmw had a booty replacement kit... ;D
Oh Magoo you done it again


Ragmas

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Reply #2 on: April 29, 2011, 01:50:01 am
yeah i started to notice the rubber boots on a few connections starting to deteriorate to the point that I really should look into replacing them...the battery boots are shot but still in place and the top of the carb has a bit of a crack/ tear at the opening where the throttle cable enters...while i am at it the starter connection could use a update..as u can c the older machines have the same problems..be Nice if cmw had a booty replacement kit... ;D

You msaid booty.  Heh heh.
 ;)
Sa
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Little Falls, NY


GSS

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Reply #3 on: April 29, 2011, 02:36:30 am
Singh,
The quality of the desi wiring and the manner in which it is routed is definitely spotty in a few places on my C5.  The lack of any slack and sharp stuff rubbing against wires makes me nervous as well.

On a positive note, I did my second oil and filter change at 600 miles and the magnets in both of the drain plugs were a joy to look at. No bits, sludge, metal shavings....nothing!  Just shiny clean!  I had switched to synthetic (Amsoil 20-50) at 300 miles and it seems to be breaking in nicely.

GSS
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2bikebill

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Reply #4 on: April 29, 2011, 08:25:02 am
How's your bike for rust Singh? I mean apart from the usual suspects, how's the frame holding out? I have paint lifting off mine in a couple of places.
I guess for those of us in damp climates, a good deal of TLC is going to be necessary to keep on top of it. But the bloody wiring ought not to be tiring so soon!

2009 Royal Enfield Electra (G5)


Philbomoog

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Reply #5 on: April 29, 2011, 10:56:43 am
I've had to replace a number of cracked rubber bits and now use a light coat of silicon grease to help preserve them. Other wires have been protected with off cuts of rubber hose where necessary and a bit of rerouting of looms had helped to reduce tension on connectors and the risk of rubbing.

Paint has flaked in the same place as Wills photo, which I noticed is around the battery. This may be as a result of fluid from the battey. (I now use an AGM and have had no further problems).


2bikebill

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Reply #6 on: April 29, 2011, 02:37:41 pm
It's below and in front of battery, but not from leaking battery. There are other rusty bits too.
2009 Royal Enfield Electra (G5)


singhg5

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Reply #7 on: April 29, 2011, 11:01:17 pm
I've had to replace a number of cracked rubber bits and now use a light coat of silicon grease to help preserve them. Other wires have been protected with off cuts of rubber hose where necessary and a bit of rerouting of looms had helped to reduce tension on connectors and the risk of rubbing.

I am glad to read that you are taking all the right steps to keep your wires and other components protected with silicon grease (Thumb Up  :D) This will keep them working and bike running for long time. 

That is the reason to start this thread so that Forum members can take Pro-Active steps before damage is done.  My advice is - do not wait - if your wires look good THAT is the time to coat them, because once cracked it is just going to get worse.
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5


jartist

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Reply #8 on: April 29, 2011, 11:23:03 pm
Lead acid batteries off-gas a little bit of oxygen and hydrogen when they charge so anything near a battery is in a slightly more oxygen rich environment- especially if you leave the bike on a trickle charger.


singhg5

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Reply #9 on: April 29, 2011, 11:37:33 pm
How's your bike for rust Singh? I mean apart from the usual suspects, how's the frame holding out? I have paint lifting off mine in a couple of places.
I guess for those of us in damp climates, a good deal of TLC is going to be necessary to keep on top of it. But the bloody wiring ought not to be tiring so soon!

I have seen some spots on the frame.  Every week I find some new ones ! Just today, I saw rust on the nuts of the back seat rest.. grrr... I tell you, that the whole bike - I mean literally every nook and cranny needs ACF50 coating, or face rust.  

I did not expect that the rubber or vinyl on wires will start crumbling apart like this. These wires need to be coated from one end to the other and all around completely.

(On a side note - I cant praise ACF50 enough. The parts coated with it have remained intact. It has rejuvinated rims which have been exposed to lot of rain water and damp weather for the last 6 weeks. It stays there for a long time.)
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5


jartist

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Reply #10 on: April 30, 2011, 01:02:52 am
Is the actual insulation on the wires cracking or just the boots?  I've never owned a vehicle where the electrical boots held up and I never experienced any problems on my cars or motorcycles from the cracked or torn connection boots as long as the electrical connections were well greased.  Two years seems like short lived rubber, though.  I've had all sorts of problems on old cars from cracked and awol insulation on wires, however.


GreenMachine

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Reply #11 on: April 30, 2011, 01:29:03 am
just the boots starting to split..
Oh Magoo you done it again


singhg5

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Reply #12 on: May 02, 2011, 01:17:56 am
How's your bike for rust Singh?

The big parts such as gas tank, battery cover, wheel rims, silencer, fenders get most of the attention when cleaning or polishing and small parts or difficult to reach areas are neglected. They are the ones that eventually get rust. A few examples are rusted nuts / bolts on my bike - including clutch cable adjusting nut (surprisingly one nut is fine and other got rust !), all the nuts of back seat rest, also bolts on fuel injector and air manifold.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2011, 03:17:48 am by singhg5 »
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5


gashousegorilla

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Reply #13 on: May 02, 2011, 01:43:26 pm
 Singh, This may be a crazy idea, and I've never heard it used on a Bike before......But, what about using some Cathodic protection to prevent rust?....Installing an Anode on the frame may prevent rust. I would think it would only work while the kick or center stand were down, creating a contact with ground?...They are used on things like Out board motors, Water Heaters, Buried steel pipe, and etc. Might be something interesting to look into?
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


oldairplanenut

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Reply #14 on: May 02, 2011, 03:40:20 pm
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/termnips.php

Aircraft Spruce and Specialty sells these silicone terminal boots. My starter boot cracked within 6 months and I replaced it and the battery boots with these.