Author Topic: Chains : C 5/G 5 /B 5  (Read 10150 times)

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nigelogston@gmail.com

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on: April 23, 2011, 03:27:49 pm
Sorry to drag this up again, but a recent thread mentioned the nuisance of chain maintenance.    I went back and found an older lengthy thread on IWIS chains, (which I did not bring forward) which referred to several other brands -DID and , I think, RK plus others .  The thread also referred to but did not so far as I could tell definitely settle the question of whether there was an aftermarket O . X or O/X ring chain to fit G 5s (and the same question now of course arises wrt the new B 5 s which weren't out yet when the thread was started. 
So, does anyone know
!) What chain type link number and width does the B 5 have?
2) Are there or are there not "performance chains" of long life to go on the G 5 or B 5 (I gather the C 5 is already O ring type)
3) for that matter, how are the O ring C 5 chains lasting , and are there now field tested better alternatives available in North America (the even /odd link number issue)
4) There was talk of a potential mismatch between aftermarket chain and sprocket hardness, so are there aftermarket harder sprockets?  And if one does a countershaft sprocket change, , how does this factor into the width/hardness issue? 

I ask this because the B 5 is new, and because I was not clear on the general resolve after reading the last string.  The closest I saw to resolve was to get a good standard non-O chain vs replacing stock and doing it frequently.  (for G 5 anyway)   Thanks, Nigel


nigelogston@gmail.com

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Reply #1 on: April 23, 2011, 03:30:33 pm
Oh---and while we are thrashing chains again, what about the primary drive chain? Is it better than the stock G 5 final drive, or does it stretch and wobble too?  Nigel


singhg5

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Reply #2 on: April 23, 2011, 05:04:47 pm
@Nigel:

As far as I know, no one has reported any issue with primary chains even on bikes that have over 10,000 miles. The bike has automatic spring loaded chain tensioner that keeps primary chain in proper tension. They do not show any stretch on my G5, which is two years running.

For G5 - DID chain of 530 size cut to 102 links works best for my bike. The sprockets are fine if you keep chain well lubricated. The standard chain works just fine for G5 and there is no need for more expensive O/X chain. Considering all the factors, stick to the simplest ones that work well.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2011, 05:50:20 pm by singhg5 »
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GreenMachine

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Reply #3 on: April 23, 2011, 07:15:47 pm
spring loaded tensioner..thats good unlike the irons that need tweaking every now n then....simple is good and seems to work the best..
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #4 on: April 23, 2011, 08:17:34 pm
A good o/x-ring chain will cost about 4x what a traditional chain costs.  At those prices I'm getting a traditional DID and giving that a go when mine is ready.  One person did report somewhere that an aftermarket x/o-ring chain did fit on a G5 (maybe a C5, can't remember).  The stock C5 o-ring chain has really thin o-rings, it's the narrowest o-ring chain I've ever seen.  Most aftermarket chains are notably wider to fit the rings in there.

If you're really curious, stop by a local shop and beg for a scrap piece of chain, toss the mechanic a fiver maybe.  Most chains come over length and are cut down when installed.  Just get a 5 to 10 link section of what you want, hitch it into your own chain with two snap master links, and see if you can pull it through.  Of course you could just buy a whole chain and do the same thing, return it if it doesn't fit.

Scott


r80rt

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Reply #5 on: April 23, 2011, 08:19:12 pm
The chain on my C5 has ran for 10.000 miles and still looks good and has plenty of adjustment left. After the initial stretch It's rarely needed attention, I lube it every 300 miles or so and I run it a little loose,
« Last Edit: April 23, 2011, 09:30:10 pm by r80rt »
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Maturin

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Reply #6 on: April 23, 2011, 09:17:02 pm
If you´d mount an o-ring-chain on the B5 it probably would have eternal life even with minimum maintanance. If the main purpose is to fit something you can forget most of the time then it´s a smart sollution.
Disadvantages, however, as Scotty mentioned before, are zero cost effectivness in addition to the power loss caused by the bigger resistance of the o-ring in comparison to an ordinary chain.
I doubt that the sprockets would stand two o-ring-chains, for that could be more than 30´km. Anyway it would be dumb to throw an expensive new chain on half-worn sprockets, but with a cheap normal chain I´d of course do that.
I mounted the 18-tooth-sprocket from Hitchcock, but I can´t look at it now, so no idea if that is worth the price. The rear sprocket looks just fine after 8´km, so I´ll probably replace the Indian stock chain with an ELITE or IWIS at around 10´km.
Overall I have the impression that Precious uses chains rather sparingly.
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GreenMachine

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Reply #7 on: April 23, 2011, 10:52:58 pm
u know i think it comes down to how u drive and do u oil the chain consistently, occasionally or when u think its looking a bit thirsty,,,,do u clean it, how do u clean it and do u clean it before oiling...Frankly, i oil my chain, wipe if off with a clean lint free rag and oil it again....I've only had to adjust my chain once with just over 8k on the clock...I'm not surprise to hear that some of ya's have a oem chain with 10 k and still plenty of life left in it.....to each his own and if u want a permanent chain (if that exist) then pay the 3x or whatever the price is and get one...I'll just replace it with the oem chain and get what i can out of it....
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #8 on: April 23, 2011, 11:26:26 pm
OEM chains on these bike vary WIDELY.  I've got 5400 miles and have adjusted my chain at least 4 times, a couple were several notches.  I lube it at least every other tank but I don't think this one will last very long.

Another thing to consider is wet weather riding.  If you ride in rain a lot a o-ring chain may last a lot longer unless you're cleaning and oiling after every wet ride.  Rain eats chains.

Scott


GreenMachine

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Reply #9 on: April 23, 2011, 11:36:25 pm
i've only been caught in the rain once and that was for 10 minutes....
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #10 on: April 23, 2011, 11:53:16 pm
I live in Portland OR and get a lot of wet weather.  I don't set out in a downpour but I've come home in a few.  And I ride in light rain all the time.

Scott


GreenMachine

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Reply #11 on: April 24, 2011, 12:53:47 am
funny how some of experience different wear n tear and in different conditions....make sense that chain wear is accelerated due to moisture...i can see where sand n grit will do it too..i wouldn't think rock salt is good for anything.. thanks for the ideas associated with chain wear..
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nigelogston@gmail.com

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Reply #12 on: April 24, 2011, 11:59:15 am
Thanks all for your input.    All other considerations aside, do you think that the O ring chain on the C 5 is a big enough factor to influence the choice between C5 and G 5 (and I assume B 5 which being based on an older model part bin probably has stock chains similar to iron barrel)   ?   Or is it a non issue .  (I like the G 5 /B 5 style, 19 " wheels and the ease with which you can change the final drive with a larger countershaft sprocket which I gather can't be done on a C 5----(correct me if I am wrong here)    Nigel


r80rt

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Reply #13 on: April 24, 2011, 01:58:31 pm
Everyone will have a different experience with bikes, chains, and general riding. It's all relative to the rider. Pick the one that makes you grin the most and run with it.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #14 on: April 24, 2011, 07:51:25 pm
All other considerations aside, do you think that the O ring chain on the C 5 is a big enough factor to influence the choice between C5 and G 5 (and I assume B 5 which being based on an older model part bin probably has stock chains similar to iron barrel)   ? 

Absolutely not!  Get the bike you want.  The C5 chain ain't nothing special, I'm sure any brand name o-ring chain is as good or better.  If you want the G5 and an o/x-ring chain, buy the G5 and spend another $80-100 to get a good chain and install it within the first few hundred miles before the sprockets start to wear. 

Or just run the stock chain to the end of it's life (prolly 10k miles) and then get a fancy new chain with your new sprockets.  Case closed.

X/o-ring chains really let you slack on maintenance compared to a traditional chain and for all but the most ideal circumstances tend to last longer.  Longer enough to justify the increased price?  Sometimes, not always.  But it does make for one less thing to worry about.

Scott


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Reply #15 on: April 25, 2011, 02:19:27 am
I do not want to turn this into an oil thread.

IMHE with other bikes X ring chains lasted me longer than O ring which lasted longer than plain IF they were cleaned and adjusted regularly.

 As sealed chains have differing widths, the only way to know if or which one will fit your particular bike is test fit it.

 Takes me ten minutes on Sundays to service my plain chain.

( I don't count the time in the wash and soak tubs only labor time for removal re installation and inspection)

 I replaced the last plain chain on my Iron Barrel Bullet after 8,000 miles of service and it still had some life left in it.

YAMMV, void where prohibited by law etc. etc. like I said I do not want to turn this into an oil thread.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2011, 02:22:56 am by Ice »
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GlennF

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Reply #16 on: October 04, 2011, 01:46:27 am
...  old thread but seemed no sense starting a new one.

I am considering using an ACF50 + chain lube combo on my B5 to see how it goes, anyone else tried ACF50 on a chain ?

BTW ... The B5 chain looks to be old school without O-rings but i have no idea of front socket size as mine came without an owners manual. Does anyone know if the B5 front is a 17 like the G5 ? If so is there room for an 18 with the kick start shaft in the way ?

Another thought. Has anyone tried an 18 or 19 front on a UCE bike and then used a larger rear to fine tune the ratio ? If so how did it go ?


hocko

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Reply #17 on: October 04, 2011, 02:33:52 am
I've been following this with interest. At 6,400 kms (Not miles). I was getting a tinny rattle from the rear of the bike on bumps etc. Turned out to be the chain, which I lubed every 300 - 500 km. It was completely shot. When held on it's side it dropped over like it was being held  upright (If you get my meaning). I don't trash the bike and  I do about 300 km per week commute. The only thing I can think is that for the past two months I have had to traverse about 3 km of workworks, dust, water trucks and the like. I have been informed from several sources that an "O" ring chain will not fit the GS models, brought a 530 chain from a Honda Dealer ($125.00 AD)
BTY replaced the original chain, tinny rattle stopped. Has just now started again but this time I think it's the heat shield on the muffler>.
Cheers all.   :)


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #18 on: October 04, 2011, 04:32:40 am
Holy smokes are we charging the wrong price for a 530 chain or what?
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gremlin

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Reply #19 on: June 19, 2012, 05:22:30 pm
!) What chain type link number and width does the B 5 have?

I'm also wondering this ...  I checked the manual that came with my 2011 B5, and, it does not include this info.

What length of 530 chain does the B5 come with ?
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barenekd

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Reply #20 on: June 19, 2012, 06:36:58 pm
The chain on all three models is the same 101 link, 530 size chain. The difference is in the countershaft sprocket. the B5 and C5 comes with a 17 tooth sprocket, where the C5 has an 18 tooth sprocket because of the wheel size difference.
An Oring chain will fit on a C5, but will not fit on a B5/G5 because the wider chain will hit the countershaft bearing boss. So, if you want to put an Oring chain on a B5/G5, you have to go to an 18 tooth sprocket.
Frankly, as far as I'm concerned, the stock chain on the B5/G5 is garbage. I took mine apart after 6500 miles after noting the gigantic droop spoken about in another post. The internal bushings were breaking apart and were just split bushings to start with. Absolutely, the lowest quality chain I have ever seen. When those chains start breaking up like that, the "stretching" also destroys sprockets. So if you like replacing chains and sprockets every 10,000 miles, or less, have at it. I'd rather spend my time and money that will last considerable longer and not require adjusting literally every time I ride it!   
The C5 Oring chain is obviously a better quality chain than the one on the B5/G5, hence the longer life.
I went for a mid range Tsubaki Oring chain for about $100 which I'm sure will take me, from past experience with these chains, to 30,000+ miles and the sprockets will go there with it.
There are other high quality chains that are really good including RIK, DID, and Tsubaki, etal. Xchains, as mentioned, will last even longer, but cost more.
Don't consider RE the only bad guy that cheaps out on OEM chains. Most manufacturers do. I had a Regina chain on a Triumph Speed Triple that lasted 8000 miles and Regina does make some good qulity chains. I've have had some pretty short lived chains on Hondas, too. It's pretty common practice.
I wouldn't base the decision making on buying the C5 or B5/G5 on the chain. Neither chain is worth arguing about.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #21 on: June 19, 2012, 08:17:54 pm
The C5 has a 102 link chain, and the quality isn't that good.  Mine died at 6500 miles and a few other riders had theirs check out early too.

Scott


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Reply #22 on: June 19, 2012, 08:30:58 pm
9000 miles out of my stock c5 chain. It needed to be changed a while ago.

UMI brand o-ring 530 fits the C5.
I don't own a chain riveter so I also bought a clip link. Whole change over process took an hour.
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میں صرف اپنی موٹر سائیکل پر سوار کرنا چاہتے ہیں


JVS

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Reply #23 on: March 16, 2013, 09:40:46 am
Thread bump!

Hey everyone..I think my stock B5 chain's time of death has cometh and it's only been approximately 6400mi.  :(

This is what I've noticed:

- Checking the chain tension from the center of both the sprockets, I adjust the chain to what the manual says.
- I rotate the tyre and check the tension again at a new point of the chain, still measuring at the center of both sprockets.
- I repeat above step a few more times and notice that the chain is within spec at certain points and droopy as hell at one point. Then tight again..etc
- And the chain is hitting something intermittently when I rotate the tyre.

So..time to get rid of it, correct?
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wildbill

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Reply #24 on: March 16, 2013, 09:47:04 am
I'd say you should have tossed it away - right from the very start!  ;D  L.O.L


mattsz

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Reply #25 on: March 16, 2013, 09:50:52 am
What is everybody doing up so early?!?  ;)

There are more knowledgeable folks around here, but based on what you describe, I'd say the time to get rid of your chain was awhile ago.  Check the sprockets for excessive wear, and change that chain!

I've got a Tsubaki 530 o-ring chain on the shelf, ready to install on my B5 as soon as it warms up just a tad bit more.  I've also got an 18 tooth sprocket, as this is needed for using the wider o-ring chain on our bikes, so I'm told.  I'm curious to see how the gearing change feels, and whether I notice it at all, being the newbie rider that I am...


JVS

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Reply #26 on: March 16, 2013, 09:57:57 am
I'd say you should have tossed it away - right from the very start!  ;D  L.O.L

The chain fought one hell of a battle  :-X And then backstabbed its own team-mate. (Me) Damn RE chains  ::)

What is everybody doing up so early?!?  ;)

There are more knowledgeable folks around here, but based on what you describe, I'd say the time to get rid of your chain was awhile ago.  Check the sprockets for excessive wear, and change that chain!

Both wildbill and I are from the land down under. We are most certainly in the future! Sunday in almost 3 hours  8)

And yes, here I was thinking that my stock chain will last for another 5000mi two weeks ago LOL. No noticeable wear on the rear sprocket yet. The chain appeared well few weeks ago. Thankfully, I noticed the droopy woopy this evening. I'll ask Hitchcocks for a nice aftermarket replacement chain and see how it goes :D Plenty of choices available.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2013, 10:02:19 am by JVS »
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wildbill

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Reply #27 on: March 16, 2013, 12:23:37 pm
Tsubaki 530 o-ring chain
a very good chain. done about 1200km on mine and it's a beauty. highly recommended.


barenekd

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Reply #28 on: March 16, 2013, 06:26:51 pm
I had 9000 miles on my Tsubaki 530 O-ring and adjusted it once, at 8,900 miles. It was going to last a long time! The original G5 chain was garbage. Should've been replaced by 2000 miles.
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Royalista

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Reply #29 on: March 16, 2013, 09:10:35 pm
Chain on E5 (same as G5) lasted 8,000 miles.
Was replaced by the O-ring chain from a C5, which fits because these are smaller. That was 3,000 miles ago, so far needed adjustment only once.
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Techmaven

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Reply #30 on: March 19, 2013, 10:44:32 pm
Is there a belt conversion for these bikes? That would be awesome!!!!


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #31 on: March 19, 2013, 11:09:41 pm
Nope, and it would be hard to make a conversion.  Belts are really wide compared to chains.  There often isn't enough room without LOTs of modification.

Scott


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Reply #32 on: April 05, 2013, 03:00:47 am
I was thinking about getting a chain and sprockets before they needed replaced so I would have it on hand when the time comes. I have just under 3600 miles on the C5 Mil Ed and have had to adjust a couple of times already. Now I don't really think it would be fair for me to say the chain is crap considering the fact I live in the country with the drive way being 1/5 mile of dusty chat. The roads out here are pretty rough and very dirty/dusty add in the fact that we have wonderful midwest bi-polar weather. My chains never have lasted very long even my little Honda 250 Rebel I replaced my 520 o ring chain  three times (was on the 4th chain including stock) in 20,000 miles. Yes I do clean and lube my chains  or they wouldn't have lasted that long. I got about 8000 miles on a o ring 530 chain on my 1974 CB550.  I have a lot of my friends who go through chains fairly quickly on their Japanese bikes of which some of them are pretty laid back riders. Oh and did I mention I tend to ride in the winter with all that lovely salt on the road?  Environmental factors surely come into play in regards of chain longevity.
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gremlin

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Reply #33 on: April 05, 2013, 03:44:33 am
......Environmental factors surely come into play in regards of chain longevity.

+1
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Gypsyjon

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Reply #34 on: April 06, 2013, 11:01:13 pm
Okay...how does one know when the chain needs replacing?


Royalista

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Reply #35 on: April 06, 2013, 11:24:06 pm
Okay...how does one know when the chain needs replacing?

If you can lift the chain from the rear sprocket (at the far end) she's a goner. Sad.  :'(
But a new one will make up for it.  :)
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gremlin

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Reply #36 on: April 07, 2013, 03:21:23 am
Okay...how does one know when the chain needs replacing?

if it is laying on the highway behind you, then, it's overdue.....
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Techmaven

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Reply #37 on: April 07, 2013, 03:14:36 pm
if it is laying on the highway behind you, then, it's overdue.....

It DOES save a little weight that way...but lack of power transfer to the wheel nullifies that :P


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Reply #38 on: April 07, 2013, 03:55:09 pm
Okay...how does one know when the chain needs replacing?

Chains stretch quite a bit, it's just in their nature.

As a general rule, when making your chain adjustments, once the chain has stretched to point that you need to remove a link in order to get it to the right tension, you have 1-3 more adjustments before you need to replace it.

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gremlin

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Reply #39 on: April 07, 2013, 06:53:14 pm
If you can lift the chain from the rear sprocket (at the far end) she's a goner.........

+1
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barenekd

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Reply #40 on: April 08, 2013, 05:22:22 am
You want to replace it before you need new sprockets. Checking the chain by pulling it up on the sprocket between teeth should be limited to about half the height of the sprocket teeth, 5mm.
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barenekd

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Reply #41 on: April 08, 2013, 09:05:17 pm
Quote
Chains stretch quite a bit, it's just in their nature.

Actually chains stretch very little. What they do is wear out the pins and bushings. The Indian chain that come on REs have split bushings that start to disintegrate in short order. Good chains have tubular bushings that hold up considerable longer. The Indian pins aren't very hard either so they start to flatten which adds to the beating the bushings are taking. It you measure the sideplate length, You'll find they don't stretch too much, abut the tins plates on the Indian chains do stretch a bit, it doesn't count much in the total length difference. Good chains have far thicker and harder side plates than the Indian ones, too. They normally don't stretch.
When you guys replace the chains, drive a few pins out of the old one and see how well the innards are holding up. Check the wear by laying the chain flat the ground, then pull and end sideways and see how much it curves. They should have very little curve.  Before you install the new one check the curvature in hat one first to have a baseline. As far as sprocket wear goes, the longer you wait to replace a chain the more the sprocket will wear as the links get separated farther and farther. The sprockets will have all the load transferred to one tooth instead of evenly across all the teeth. This will ruin the sprockets in short order. This is why I would recommend early replacement of the OEM chain, so you can save the sprockets and have them last many thousands more miles. Chains aren't that expensive, but add a set of sprockets, the price more than doubles, and it's a lot more work to replace!
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gremlin

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Reply #42 on: April 08, 2013, 10:32:27 pm
.........It you measure the sideplate length, You'll find they don't stretch too much,.... it doesn't count much in the total length difference.................
{ -vs- }
 the longer you wait to replace a chain the more the sprocket will wear as the links get separated farther and farther..........

Hmmmm......   rational thought ?

or, perhaps it is added friction from worn rollers that wears away at the sprockets ?
« Last Edit: April 08, 2013, 10:36:35 pm by gremlin »
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #43 on: April 08, 2013, 10:48:01 pm
As the pins get farther apart the wear on the teeth gets worse.  And the larger rear sprocket takes more of a beating since there are more teeth engaged in a too long chain at one time.

Scott


barenekd

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Reply #44 on: April 08, 2013, 10:54:29 pm
Yeah, it's additional friction, but that friction is caused by increasing the load on each tooth by the wider gap in the chain links.
I had 6600 miles on my totally shot chain when I replaced it. The sprockets were still in good enough shape that I could use them with the new chain. I attribute that to the fact that I oiled the hell out of the chain every 200 miles.
the new chain a Tsubaki oring chain had to be adjusted at 9000 miles for the first time. I know I would've gotten well over 25,000 miles on it. I've gotten over 30,000 on them in the past. I may need to change the sprockets at that time, but I think that a cost/mile analysis would definitely show it to be a lot cheaper than the "original chain multi change w/sprockets" options. And definitely a lot less labor.
Bare
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barenekd

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Reply #45 on: April 08, 2013, 10:57:57 pm
The B5s running gear is exactly the same as the C5 except for the 19" wheel. It may have the 17T sprocket.
Bare 
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mattsz

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Reply #46 on: April 08, 2013, 11:02:09 pm
The B5 does have a 17 tooth sprocket.

I've got an 18-toother and Tsubaki o-ring chain waiting...


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Reply #47 on: April 08, 2013, 11:06:30 pm
I'm hoping I get the same life out of my new chain and sprockets.  Taking it all apart is a pain on this bike.  If I knew then what I know now I would have gotten a good x-ring chain at around 6000 miles before the sprockets wore.  I put on a good chain but some failed lube experiments left the sprockets worn enough that I didn't want to put an expensive new chain on them.  For the record, the LoobMan oiler is great but the lubing head doesn't stay in place and dry lubes don't seem to work well on non o-ring chains.

Thanks for the tips Bare, the changeout all went smoothly even if it was a lot of work :)

Scott
« Last Edit: April 08, 2013, 11:12:04 pm by Ducati Scotty »


foggy95

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Reply #48 on: April 09, 2013, 12:31:02 am
Many pardons for flogging this topic some more, but can I make the following assumptions? If I want a quality o-ring (Tsubaki 530) chain on a G5, I MUST change my front sprocket to a 18t? Or, I can leave it as a 17t, but my adjusting snails will be within three notches (approx) of maxed out?

 If I go with the 18t, how will that affect the overall performance of the bike? My other bike, a Hinckley Triumph T100, it is common (and preferred by many), to change from the stock 18t to 19t for more relaxed highway cruising as it drops the RPM's about 400 at 60-65 mph. The Triumph doesn't miss the low speed 'grunt' or torque by such a change - I don't know if the trade off would be acceptable on the G5 as well.

Anyone actually gone from the 17t to 18t with the G5? How do you find the results?

I'm still compiling info on the two bikes I am leaning toward right now, the G5 Classic, and the C5 Classic. Probably black, in either case, but the G5 green is nice too, and I wonder if the 'new' forest green will be available on the G5 as well as the B5.

Thanks all for reading and any tips/advice/opinions appreciated!
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #49 on: April 09, 2013, 12:35:59 am
O/x-ring chains are wider to fit the rings.  The C5 works as is with the 18t front.  The G5/B5 have a 17t front and there are apparently clearance issues with a wider chain, the 18t front fixes that.  You need the 18t on the G5/B5 to run an o/x-ring chain as far as I know.

Lots of folks have swapped, mostly for an o/x-ring chain or because they wanted lower revs on the highway.

Scott


barenekd

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Reply #50 on: April 09, 2013, 01:20:33 am
The G5 and B5s need the 18T sprocket because the Tsubaki chains are a lot wider than the stock chain, not just for the orings, but the side plates are much thicker.
The chain will hit the bearing housing if the 17 is left in there. Jack and I both switched over to 18s and after the initial getting used to the somewhat subdued roll on performance, we got where we really like the higher gearing. Neither of us were ready to go back to stock. It raised the vibration period up a few hundred RPM so made the cruising speeds smoother. I never felt the vibration was excessive anywhere. Nothing was falling asleep or going numb. I can sure think of some other motorcycles that weren't so smooth.
Understand though that your worn out chain is adding a lot to the vibration discomfort. Putting a new chain on will definitely smooth the bike out. There's a good reason to get rid of the old!
Bare
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Reply #51 on: April 09, 2013, 03:11:05 am
Thanks for response guys, that's exactly the info I was looking for. I'd be installing this chain on a brand new bike (when I eventually get one), so no worn sprocket issues. I put the Tsubaki o-ring on my C5 last Spring as soon as I got the bike home from the dealers. Very impressed with that chain and on these low hp bikes, probably last almost forever, if cared for.
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Gypsyjon

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Reply #52 on: April 09, 2013, 03:54:50 am
Hummmmm.....wonder why they do  not use belts???


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Reply #53 on: April 09, 2013, 06:47:35 am
My C5 stock chains broken at 14,000 mileage...not more than 1 year I bought it. I commute to work everyday around 26-30 miles on two way journey. The shop guys says, the standard chains its a cheap quality. Luckily, they cover it up with new DiD chains with free of charge.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #54 on: April 09, 2013, 08:39:40 am
Hummmmm.....wonder why they do  not use belts???

A belt system is much wider than any chain. 

Scott


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Reply #55 on: April 09, 2013, 07:04:45 pm
And a whole lot ugler!! Ever see a Buell Blast? That belt drive on that thing makes it pretty much one of the ugliest bikes I've ever seen! It sticks out the side like a big goiter! You just don't wanna look at it
Bare
« Last Edit: April 09, 2013, 07:33:19 pm by barenekd »
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #56 on: April 09, 2013, 07:19:54 pm
That whole bike is ugly!  Even Erik seemed to think so:
http://www.gizmag.com/2010-buell-blast-crushed/12389/
Sounds like a lawnmower too.

Scott


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Reply #57 on: November 16, 2014, 01:22:59 pm
Sorry to revive an older threat, but I thought it would be useful to have it answered here.

I have a B5 and intend to swap the drive chain. I want to keep the stock front sprocket.  I have found a DID which I believe is non-O-ring.  It is specified as 5/8" X 3/8". Does that sound like the right clearance for the 17 tooth sprocket?
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barenekd

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Reply #58 on: November 16, 2014, 08:34:50 pm
O/X-ring chains need an 18T sprocket for the chain to clear the bearing housing on the gearbox. If you have a bike with a 17T sprocket, G5s and B5s come with a 17T, You have to change to an 18T for an Oring chain. I put 9000 miles on a Tsubaki Oring chain before the first adjustment. I would normally get over 30,000 miles out of Tsubaki and RKs.
Bare
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mattsz

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Reply #59 on: November 16, 2014, 09:36:18 pm

O/X-ring chains need an 18T sprocket for the chain to clear the bearing housing on the gearbox. If you have a bike with a 17T sprocket, G5s and B5s come with a 17T, You have to change to an 18T for an Oring chain.

This seems to be the conventional wisdom.  I made the switch to an 18T sprocket on my B5 when I installed my Tsubaki o-ring chain.

However, after NField Gearman announced adding the RK brand x-ring chain to their inventory...

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,19737.msg220126.html#msg220126

... I had a chat with him about fitting it to the B5 and G5 bikes.  He said:

Quote
The chain will not interfere with either size sprocket as the vertical faces of the inside casings are parallel and without extrusions that might cause interference.

The only way I can see this chain actually interfering with the case is if the chain adjusters are not set evenly, allowing the wheel to have a slight cant and pulling the chain into the side of the case.  This is entirely possible with any model, regardless of sprocket size. I imagine this is where the information you are referring to originally spawned from.

I then asked him if he knew the width of this chain, whether it's narrower than a "standard" 530 o-ring chain, like one from Tsubaki or D.I.D.  He didn't, but he did say...

Quote
I did actually fit it to a motor to verify it's functionality though.

I tried to contact RK to find out the specs for their chain, but they never replied.

So now I'm left wondering about the need to change the drive sprocket.  Is this based on a misunderstanding or confusion, kind of like the "ECU-learning" myth?  Did someone actually try to fit a chain to a B5 or G5 and have it chafe?  Is the RK chain simply narrower?

I don't know, but it would be nice to sort it out...


mattsz

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Reply #60 on: November 16, 2014, 09:39:08 pm
Oh yeah... I got about 2000 - that's two thousand - miles out of my Tsubaki 530 o-ring chain before it started seizing up on me.  I cleaned and lubed it regularly, every 200-300 miles.  >:(

Anything can happen...


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Reply #61 on: November 16, 2014, 10:31:17 pm
So if I fit this non o-ring onto my B5, while leaving the 17 tooth sprocket on, it should be fine?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171474807441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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Reply #62 on: November 16, 2014, 10:38:52 pm
So if I fit this non o-ring onto my B5, while leaving the 17 tooth sprocket on, it should be fine?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171474807441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

matt

That is a 114 link chain, I believe you want a 530, 102 link chain for your B5.

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mattsz

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Reply #63 on: November 16, 2014, 10:39:49 pm
That is a 114 link chain, I believe you want a 530, 102 link chain for your B5.

Yup.  +1

But the non-oring chain is narrower and will fit with either sprocket...


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Reply #64 on: November 16, 2014, 10:48:24 pm
Great, so I'll get that one and just cut it down to 102.
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Reply #65 on: November 17, 2014, 06:46:07 pm
Original chain with 17 tooth sprocket is 101 links on a B5.
With an 18 tooth sprocket its seems to be recommended to fit a 102 link chain, I did this but think that a 101 link chain would still fit, as my initial adjustment with the 102 is half way around the snail cams with 45mm of chain play. At least I have the option of removing an extra link if needed.
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Reply #66 on: November 17, 2014, 10:33:18 pm
My G5 came with a 17 tooth drive sprocket and uses a 101 link chain.

These 101 link chains need a "half link" to get the odd number of links and most of the new replacement chains offered by the major companies don't list them so I also bought the 102 link chain when I replaced mine.

The only difference in the adjustement was, as you say, the snail cams needed to be rotated about 3/4 further around than they were with the OEM chain.
Jim
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #67 on: November 17, 2014, 10:55:52 pm
+1, most x/o-ring chains don't have half links available.

With the possible interference between a wide chain and the case with a 17 tooth sprocket, I've wondered how bad it would be?  I mean, if it's just a bit, couldn't you set it up and just go for a 10 miles cruise?  Steel chain and soft aluminum case, wouldn't it just settle itself in?  I don't suspect the chain would be harmed much and if it's only shaving the case a hair I think that'd be ok too.  Certainly not the preferred way to clearance things but maybe doable.

Scott


mattsz

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Reply #68 on: November 18, 2014, 02:07:15 am
That's why I was wondering about whether any of us had actually installed the o-chain, and found a problem...


barenekd

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Reply #69 on: November 18, 2014, 10:00:00 pm
There would be a problem when the chain saws the end of the bearing housing off! Probably lose a little oil there! But the chain will be lubed!
Bare
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Reply #70 on: November 19, 2014, 12:30:48 am
Hi Guys,
     One of my previous bikes was a Norton Commando which came fitted with standard stye 530 chains. Due to the narrowness of the between inner primary chain case and transmission space 530 "O"ring chains will not fit without rubbing. So some Norton owners simply (well, not so simply really) narrowed the front and rear sprockets from 3/8 inch to 1/4 inch thereby allowing the use of narrower 520 "O"ring chains. When I did the job I turned my sprockets on a lathe and ground them (due to hardness) thinner. It became such a popular upgrade that many of the Norton parts suppliers now carry the narrowed sprockets and chains as conversion kits. It probably would not be a difficult thing to do with any other RE model.

GB


Arizoni

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Reply #71 on: November 19, 2014, 01:05:01 am
Sounds like a hell of a lot of work to install a weaker "O-ring" chain to me. :(

I know the O-ring chains are all the buzz but when it comes down to it they don't have that much of an advantage over the old fashioned roller chains.

I suppose no one noticed but the Blue label PJ-1 is made for O-ring chains.  (Yes, the rollers do need to be lubed if you want your expensive chain to last).
Jim
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mattsz

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Reply #72 on: November 19, 2014, 01:49:31 am
I suppose no one noticed but the Blue label PJ-1 is made for O-ring chains.

I noticed.  It's what I lubed my Tsubaki o-ring chain with every 300 miles or so - for the 2000 miles it lasted before links started seizing up.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #73 on: November 19, 2014, 03:33:32 am
Lots of sports bikes have 520 conversions available.  I really don't think the RE throws out enough hp to kill a 520 chain in any short amount of time ;)