Author Topic: voltage regulator  (Read 1685 times)

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'45 WD CO

  • '43 WD Enfield
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on: April 17, 2011, 07:26:05 pm
My 06 iron barrel went from running just perfectly fine to not getting ANY power almost instantly.  I say almost, because  it blew a fuse about an hour before not running at all.  It stopped running AFTER I turned it off (and was setting it to TDC), meaning it didn't just cut off while I was riding.  As I checked the current, I have 12.5 at the battery and at the ignition switch, but only have current running in the voltage regulator, but not out of it.  Is this my problem?  A completely blown voltage regulator?  Would that completely shut down the bike (no ignition, lights, horn, nothing)?

Thanks, 

Bill


Vince

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Reply #1 on: April 18, 2011, 12:23:22 am
     This is a common misconception. The voltage regulator  has NOTHING to do with spark or running. Everything runs off the battery, the charging system (alternator and regulator/rectifier) then recharges the battery. If the battery is completely dead you may have a regulator problem, but things would gradually wind down: spark would get weaker, affecting running and the lights would gradually dim. The key word here is gradually. Your problem was almost instant. 
     To run an engine needs lubrication, compression, fuel/air mixture, and spark at the right time. So these are the things you check. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE MORE THAN A SPLASH OF GAS IN THE TANK. I get 2 or 3 frantic calls every week that are fixed by putting a gallon of gas in the tank. Drain the carb and make sure there is clean gas in it. Check the air filter for obstructions. Check the oil level. Charge the battery. Remove the plug, cover the hole with your thumb, and spin the engine with the kick of electric start. You should be able to feel a big air pulse on (and blowing past) your finger. Put the plug in the cap and touch it to the fins. Spin the motor and check for spark.
     Which ever test fails is the area for further work.For instance a common cause of no compression is a bent or unseated push rod.  If they all check out then you have a timing or internal carb issue.
     Most of these calls on the Enfield are traced to an ammeter wire, a battery ground, the ignition switch if it is electrical. Most of the rest are a dirty carb.
     Check these basics firs, then get back to us.


'45 WD CO

  • '43 WD Enfield
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Reply #2 on: April 18, 2011, 03:07:37 pm
Thanks a ton, Vince.  You're right, it was the ignition switch, which I'm ordering today.  I totally apreciate the indepth analysis and spent 7 hours in the driveway becoming a better tinkerer.   Have a great week.  Bill


LotusSevenMan

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Reply #3 on: April 19, 2011, 10:06:53 pm
Vince.
I had a similar experiience after dragging the ol' girl (2003 Bullet 500) out of storage. Fresh fuel etc. All ran OK then just died after a minute.Would it start again? Like heck. Did the plug on the block. Big fat spark. To cut a long, boring, fiddling with all in sight story short it was the plug that worked fine when rested on the block.............. but not IN the block. Not working when subjected to compression. Grrrrrrrrrrr.
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
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