[Sam]

The washers on the studs have deformed into the threads badly enough that I can't budge the head! I'm not about to pry too hard; I want all the fins, not just part of them. Rapping with a plastic mallet to see if I can wiggle it enough to maybe loosen up the grip so far has not been productive. Penetrating oil down the studs won't do the job; they're not frozen, they're pretty much threaded on. Any suggestions?

I do have a set of hardened washers ready to go for replacements. I also got new hardened washers (HD fender washers; unlike real fender washers, they're smaller, not bigger) for the valve covers.

[geoffbaker]

I'd suggest heat - try using a propane torch to warm the head enough to expand it a little. I've never tried it on my RE head, but I've used it in lots of applications when nothing else worked...

[LotusSevenMan]

I have heard of this squashed-washer-jamming-on-head-stud problem before but took it with a pinch of salt. Ummm. The problem obviously exists! You have the correct solution once the head comes off with those hardened washers but getting to this desirable point seems well tricky.
I can't think of a satisfactory answer though someone will hopefully be along soon as you aren't the only one on this forum to have suffererd this problem for sure!!!!!
Good luck 

[Kevin Mahoney]

Besides the hardened washers we are offering studs with a square end so that they can be screwed off with a wrench or socket to eliminate this problem. These are not yet on our website but will be in the new catalog which will be in the mail by the end of next week.

[Sam]

got it! a soft mallet and patience.

Now; what are the correct torques for the head nuts and the rocker assemblies? the value in the manual seems high.

[baird4444]

got it! a soft mallet and patience.
Now; what are the correct torques for the head nuts and the rocker assemblies? the value in the manual seems high.

Sam-  I've got 23.75 and 24 ft.LBs in my notes for the head. Seems like Somebody over on the yahoo site figured out that the specs were for the old Whitworth threads which are a thicker thread and that with the new threads being thinner that 21 ft.lb would be about right....  I don't think I dreamt this but I can't find it anywhere in my notes.
Rocker block studs are 10 ft.lbs by my notes.
Have I helped or confused you??

[old attachment deleted by admin]

[Sam]

yes, that confirms what I was thinking, that 285 in-lbs seems high; 20 ft lbs or so seems more like it. I seem to recall that same discussion. Anybody else?

While it's apart, I think I'll pull the barrel and remove the base gasket, substitute loctite gasket replacer stuff, pick up a little bit extra compression. Maybe drill out the oil holes in the rocker blocks a bit, too, in preparation for a high volume oil pump. Any comments?

I forget now why I started this; bored, maybe?

[LJRead]

Sam 

Sit back and don't think about it too hard and a solution will wend its way into your brain (at least that's the idea of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance").  Main thing, in a situation like this, is not to force things.  Would a couple of thinner nuts fit so you could lock them together and unscrew the stud?  Or is there enough extra space so you could file some flats in it like Kevin's square headed stud.  Are studs expensive?  If not maybe you could unscrew them with lock jaw pliers and replace.  If the studs are in there tight, that's where some heat would help.

Good luck,

Larry

[fredgold52]

One other thing you might try if the more conservative techniques don't work for you, maybe a thin cut off wheel on a dremel tool could be used to cut off a section of the washer.  If this could be done so as to break into the hole in the middle of the washer, that could provide some relief to make the washer let go.

Just a thought.  I haven't even had the tank off mine yet, so this suggestion is not based on any first hand knowledge what-so-ever. 

Good luck.  Makes me want to change out my washers now before they get too squashed.

[Sam]

for those of you who have not had this thrill; the studs live in a tunnel maybe 12 mm wide and 20--30 mm deep, with the washers at the bottom. The head nuts are a threaded sleeve with a hex on the top (like Harley head nuts, if that helps). the bottom of the sleeve bears on the washers, which in turn bear on the head casting. There is absolutely no access; none. I can barely even see the studs with the head on. What did work was alternately smacking the bottom of the intake port (with the manifold removed) and exhaust port with a 2# deadblow hammer, with the occasional slap sideways to wiggle the head. This wallowed-out the washers, which are made of something resembling shirt cardboard, enough to slide, reluctantly, over the threads without doing too much damage. Next time it's apart I'll replace the studs, I suppose, just on general principles. If you plan to pull the head for any reason, get some new, hardened, washers. Actually, even the worst Home Desperate stuff is probably better.

What happens is, when the head is snugged down, the washers get squeezed and spread out. They are constrained by the tunnel, so can't spread OUT, but can spread in around the threads. They are now firmly fixed in the tunnel, and I'll have to drive them out from the other side with something or other. That's the easy part.

It seems like a crappy design, but isn't really bad, it puts the stresses where they belong; the problem is that the design assumes a higher quality of material than is really there (unlike, say, Urals, where the design assumes shoddy materials, poorly made and sloppily assembled in haste by indifferent labor). Good washers should take care of it.

All this in search of 7:1 compression.

[SRL790]

Sam,

I know you have already sovled this but I went through the same routine the last time I pulled my head off.  I ended up cutting some wooden wedges and tapping them in at various points around the head to get it to come up evenly.

As for the base gasket, I coated both sides with "copper coat" along with the head gasket and have had no leaks thus far.  I have used this stuff on several engines, and although they may not have leaked anyway, I have not had any problems with the ones I have used it on.

I have also used the Loctite "Gasket Eliminator" for several projects, and it is good.  But, be careful about eliminating your base gasket as you are, in effect, raising the compression ratio by reducing the clearance between the piston and the valves.

I do not think that the clearances in the Enfield engine are that close but some careful measurement may be in order first.

[mbevo1]

One of the guys on the bullet-mania yahoo group says he gets the piston to BDC, then mashes as much 1/4" nylon rope as he can down the plug hole... then stands on the kickstart pedal.  Says this has worked well for him for years.  Another claims he just starts the engine after removing the head bolts.

Necessity is a mother...

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan

[Leonard]

For serious head removal check http://www.moonshiners.org.uk/bulletheadgone.htm

[mbevo1]

Wow...

That 's industrial... or should that be industrious...

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan

[Peter]

Two nylon ratchet straps over the top tube and under the head; one in front, one in back. Tighten evenly but tighty-tight. Use your favorite method to apply some gentle blows from below. Keep tightening the straps evenly and tighty-tight, as much as you can do with a medium duty ratchet.
It's easy on the fins and more than likely the head will come right off.

Peter