Author Topic: G5 UCE acting up..  (Read 24292 times)

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Sub

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Reply #15 on: April 14, 2011, 03:35:20 pm
Thanks for the update, its good to keep tabs on these things. Keep up posted!


mugwomp

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Reply #16 on: April 14, 2011, 06:02:10 pm
OK, another update...dealer called and said RE suggested changing out the crankshaft location sensor located in the stator/alternator. Seems they think the crankshaft sensor is not telling the ignition when to fire at the proper sequence. They have one coming in under warranty and will let me know if this solves the problem. I understand mechanical issues, but when you start in with electronics & computer brains I'm glad she's still in warranty and the technical gurus are on our side! I'll keep you all posted on if this solves the problem and when I'm back in the wind again.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #17 on: April 14, 2011, 06:33:48 pm
Swapping a sensor is way easier than rebuilding a carburetor.  If you understand the electronic systems they're actually faily simple.  Don't be afraid of the dark.

Scott


cyrusb

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Reply #18 on: April 14, 2011, 08:21:32 pm
Swapping a sensor is way easier than rebuilding a carburetor.  If you understand the electronic systems they're actually fairly simple.  Don't be afraid of the dark.

Scott
Agreed, but generally you will have a leatherman, and the carb in your hand. What's in your hand with the bad sensor? If your in the dark, place both hands there.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #19 on: April 14, 2011, 08:26:48 pm
Too true.  It's never a side of the road fixe with a sensor or the like.  :D


ScooterBob

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Reply #20 on: April 14, 2011, 09:57:56 pm
OK, another update...dealer called and said RE suggested changing out the crankshaft location sensor located in the stator/alternator. Seems they think the crankshaft sensor is not telling the ignition when to fire at the proper sequence. They have one coming in under warranty and will let me know if this solves the problem. I understand mechanical issues, but when you start in with electronics & computer brains I'm glad she's still in warranty and the technical gurus are on our side! I'll keep you all posted on if this solves the problem and when I'm back in the wind again.

Oh! - You MUST keep us up on THIS one .....  ;) I think the "parts shovel" is being applied here ..... not that this is a bad thing for YOU under the warranty - it's just a curious way to search for a problem ....  ::)
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singhg5

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Reply #21 on: April 15, 2011, 01:32:02 am
Swapping a sensor is way easier than rebuilding a carburetor.  If you understand the electronic systems they're actually faily simple.  Don't be afraid of the dark.

I have had a different experience - here it goes.

Electronic diagnosis is not always straight forward 'no brainer' thingy, because there are situations when it can mislead. It may work fine in certain circumstances but in other situations only an intelligent, knowledgeable and experienced mechanic can override the computer generated 'diagnosis' with his judgement to arrive at the heart of the problem.  

The diagnostic codes do not distiguish between the dysfunction of electronic component from the dysfunction of attached mechanical component - which may really be the cause why the electronic part did not work in the first place. So a diagnostic code is good only if there is no mechanical or wiring problem.

Seen it happen with my car - the diagnosis code only identified the symptom and the auto mechanic wanted hundreds of dollars to fix it  - he was saying it is in the code !  But another auto worker understood that the real issue was different and it was very simple to solv, that costed only pennies !

My take is, that if all the symptoms, observations point to the same thing and fully match with diagnosis code, then it can be helpful - but if there can be another explanation or possible cause that can explain symptoms then the diagnosis code may or may not be reliable.  Then "parts shovel" becomes the MO (modus operandi) leading to replacing one part and then the other.  

I hope that Mugwomp is riding his bike soon with a grin back on his face.  
« Last Edit: April 15, 2011, 04:08:24 am by singhg5 »
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GreenMachine

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Reply #22 on: April 15, 2011, 02:03:53 am
no problem with changing a electronic part but if that doesn't fix it..put the original part back in and don't charge me for a part i didn't need...not like any of us have a stock of ecu's and assorted sensors to troubleshoot in that way...of course understanding the error code should point a observant technician to the specific device and/or devices  causing the problem..some good test equipment and a desire to learn the fundamentals is essential in the endeavor..  what would they pay someone who specializes in motorcycle electronics? can u make a living repairing these things or is the money with BMW and Newer Harley's?  U get what u pay for....
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #23 on: April 15, 2011, 04:15:44 am
Yes, those are the unfortunate bits.  Swapping parts instead of trying an adjustment can be annoying and electrical problems are always the intermittent ones, and now you've got more electrical.  Still, the whole loop is a fairly simple system and if you know a bit about it and can read trouble codes it's usually a quick fix.  But when it gets weird it does get really weird.  I've adapted from my old carb/magneto days.  Different systems, same level of frustration at times :P

Scott


ScooterBob

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Reply #24 on: April 15, 2011, 12:41:28 pm
Carbs and magnetos can be frustrating as well .... I have one of each in the private museum driving me mad right now! Hahaha! The thing with the Enfield's EFI system is usually two-fold. ONE is that the actual parts are almost bomb-proof - that is the first assumption that must be made when diagnosing them. Two - using a DVOM (digital volt-ohm meter) is the ONLY way you are REALLY going to figure out anything with the system. Since you can't see, hear, taste or touch electricity unless something is horrible wrong, you must QUANTIFY its existence with a good meter ..... and numbers don't lie. It'll be interesting to see what the problem really is on this one ......
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ROVERMAN

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Reply #25 on: April 15, 2011, 01:47:16 pm
Bob is absolutely correct on all counts.Once a suspect circuit is identified it is a good idea to voltage drop the wiring with an 1157 bulb.Even a wire with good continuity can break down under load.


GreenMachine

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Reply #26 on: April 15, 2011, 03:57:57 pm
and those wires in most cases are very tiny and just asking for it ;D
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ScooterBob

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Reply #27 on: April 15, 2011, 07:05:06 pm
Good advice as well, ROVERMAN ...... ! I have the little "urban engineered" tool in my electrical box that uses two 1156 bulbs in series to smoke test a circuit .... rude, crude, simple .... but EFFECTIVE! You HAVE serviced a Jaguar (Jag-you-ARE) before, haven't you! Hahaha!  ;)
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SSR

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Reply #28 on: April 17, 2011, 07:31:16 pm
@mugwomp- I have seen this kind of problem before on a C5 and this is how it was resolved so it might help or work in your case;

1. Remove the crank position sensor/pulsar coil from the cover housing
2. You will see a metal strip on the bottom of the sensor, use a file to grind the base a bit gently.
3. Assemble everything back and see if this works

Reason behind this as I was told was that the magnet in the sensor can get weak due to metal particles sticking onto it/ sensor not aligned properly.





perri

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Reply #29 on: April 17, 2011, 08:09:09 pm
rollover sensor?
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