Author Topic: Enfield runs like I have a rev limiter.  (Read 16231 times)

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boggy

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Reply #30 on: April 15, 2011, 06:47:03 pm
I see. Interesting.
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boggy

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Reply #31 on: August 07, 2011, 05:44:51 am
I am ready to switch carbs  - this flat slide has almost beaten me.

The short story is I had a bad throttle bog that came on last season, slowly.

Main was a 135. Pilot was a 38.  Needle was in the middle.  Bogged past half throttle.  Idled pretty crappy.

Then I dropped the  main to a 125 and lowered the needle to the top notch.  Rich bog really reduced but was still there past 3/4 throttle.  Idled dead steady!  

Today I tried to get rid of the rest of the bog by putting in a 20 pilot.  People recommended the 19 but it was tough to track down.  Regardless... things got worse.  Idled like crap... all over the place.  Bogged with the throttle half open.  Plug chopped with it bogging on quite a good stretch.  Still sooty.

I don't know where to go.  
-I guess since it idled really well I should have left he pilot alone?  
-Maybe since dropping my main down to a 125 improved so much I should go lower with my main?  How low do they go?  

Main is so much easier to swap anyways.  Gonna put the old pilot back in tomorrow.  Shout if you guys have any ideas.  Man... I'm really thinking about suggestions for a new carb!  Can't dial this one in.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #32 on: August 07, 2011, 02:16:24 pm
My usual method, if I'm not sure which way to go, is to buy one richer and one leaner jet, and try them to see if I can get a directional indicator. Then if I find out which way(richer or leaner) gets better, I fine tune it in that direction.
Because of altitudes and temps, your jetting might not be the same as somebody else's recommendations. It might vary somewhat from what is best for them. That is why I always ask for altitude and temp info when somebody has a jetting issue.

I hate to let a carb beat me, but if you feel like you have had enough and want another carb, I have plenty of experience with the Mikuni TM32 flat slide, and can help you alot better with tuning that carb. And that is one helluva carb, too. And it is not very expensive.

And just so you know, I have heard some scuttlebutt about that 30mm OKO/JRCcarb on the web, that it has too small of a float bowl, and it starts to starve the bike for fuel (running out of power) at large throttle openings. I don't know if that is true because I haven't run that carb, but I have heard the stories.
« Last Edit: August 07, 2011, 02:23:11 pm by ace.cafe »
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TWinOKC

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Reply #33 on: August 07, 2011, 04:29:44 pm
I am ready to switch carbs  - this flat slide has almost beaten me.

The short story is I had a bad throttle bog that came on last season, slowly.

Main was a 135. Pilot was a 38.  Needle was in the middle.  Bogged past half throttle.  Idled pretty crappy.

Then I dropped the  main to a 125 and lowered the needle to the top notch.  Rich bog really reduced but was still there past 3/4 throttle.  Idled dead steady!  

Today I tried to get rid of the rest of the bog by putting in a 20 pilot.  People recommended the 19 but it was tough to track down.  Regardless... things got worse.  Idled like crap... all over the place.  Bogged with the throttle half open.  Plug chopped with it bogging on quite a good stretch.  Still sooty.

I don't know where to go.  
-I guess since it idled really well I should have left he pilot alone?  
-Maybe since dropping my main down to a 125 improved so much I should go lower with my main?  How low do they go?  

Main is so much easier to swap anyways.  Gonna put the old pilot back in tomorrow.  Shout if you guys have any ideas.  Man... I'm really thinking about suggestions for a new carb!  Can't dial this one in.

What about a mikuni carb?   I really don't know sh_t about carbs but mikuni's seem very popular and I am told perform well.   Maybe they are too expensive?   Not suitable for RE?   ;)  Just a suggestion.   
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The Garbone

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Reply #34 on: August 07, 2011, 04:37:41 pm
I am ready to switch carbs  - this flat slide has almost beaten me.

The short story is I had a bad throttle bog that came on last season, slowly.

Main was a 135. Pilot was a 38.  Needle was in the middle.  Bogged past half throttle.  Idled pretty crappy.

Then I dropped the  main to a 125 and lowered the needle to the top notch.  Rich bog really reduced but was still there past 3/4 throttle.  Idled dead steady!  

Today I tried to get rid of the rest of the bog by putting in a 20 pilot.  People recommended the 19 but it was tough to track down.  Regardless... things got worse.  Idled like crap... all over the place.  Bogged with the throttle half open.  Plug chopped with it bogging on quite a good stretch.  Still sooty.

I don't know where to go.  
-I guess since it idled really well I should have left he pilot alone?  
-Maybe since dropping my main down to a 125 improved so much I should go lower with my main?  How low do they go?  

Main is so much easier to swap anyways.  Gonna put the old pilot back in tomorrow.  Shout if you guys have any ideas.  Man... I'm really thinking about suggestions for a new carb!  Can't dial this one in.

Was it worse on the 2nd clip from the top?   You have the exact same setup as me (125) and mine is dead on, running an Ace can and Goldie.   I do get a tiny bit of rich bog when the temp goes over 95 or so but below 80 it is real sharp all the way up the throttle and goes like a raped ape..    Float level?
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


boggy

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Reply #35 on: August 07, 2011, 05:07:44 pm
Ace - Since this is a top end thing, do you think I should go back to the pilot that had my bike idling well, and try going up and down from my 125 main?  And by up and down, do you mean 126 and 124 or a bigger sway?

Ace/TWinOKC - I'm interested in this Mikuni for sure.  I just want to get back to riding for crying out loud.  This is my daily commuter and thats all the time I get to ride.  If I don't get my a.m. and p.m. therapy sessions in, my mood goes south.  

I see that NField sells it in a kit form.  I'll call them and price out the carb.  I have a k&n pancake - would I need to change that?  I'll check the threads for jet recommendations.  I'm not gonna pull the trigger yet... but I need a back up plan for sure.

Was it worse on the 2nd clip from the top?   You have the exact same setup as me (125) and mine is dead on, running an Ace can and Goldie.   I do get a tiny bit of rich bog when the temp goes over 95 or so but below 80 it is real sharp all the way up the throttle and goes like a raped ape..    Float level?

Haha.  Raped ape.  Disturbingly hilarious description.  What pilot are you running Garbone?  I'm at sea level... shoot... in a few spots I might be a few feet below.  Temp in summer is 70-95.  Definitely acts up as the weather gets hot.

I've thought about the float.  It flubs when I go over a big bump or a big bridge seam.  I would have to read up on how to adjust the height.  What is your air screw dialed at?

I appreciate all the help guys.  Like I said, this had now seriously rained on my riding season so I'm ready to swap it out if I can't dial it in.  Thanks very much.

« Last Edit: August 07, 2011, 05:37:04 pm by boggy »
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2006 DRZ400SM


The Garbone

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Reply #36 on: August 07, 2011, 06:08:49 pm
Running the same pilot, 38.  I have a 35 I was going to give a go in my 95 but I am so frustrated with that thing I just let it sit there in the garage. 

Air screw is at about 1.25 out or so.   I have some popping on deceleration but have not messed with it since the bike starts first kick...

After I get off work I can did up some jets,  I think I have a 123 and a 128 I can give you if you want.. Not like they are doing me any good...

I put money on 2nd clip and a tweak of the float level...
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


boggy

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Reply #37 on: August 07, 2011, 06:36:20 pm
I think I'll head back to the 38 then and try 1.25 turns on the air screw to get back to where it was "ok."  I might take you up on the main jets... I'll let you know.  Thanks for offering.

It idled great in that config and bottom end was ok.  Mid throttle was usually good but as the top end bog increased or decreased, as did min throttle power.

Is past half-way on the throttle all main-jet?  I'll have to dial this float in too.

Thanks.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #38 on: August 07, 2011, 06:53:49 pm
What about a mikuni carb?   I really don't know sh_t about carbs but mikuni's seem very popular and I am told perform well.   Maybe they are too expensive?   Not suitable for RE?   ;)  Just a suggestion.  

TWinOKC,
I use the Mikuni TM32 flat-slide on all the Fireball builds.
It kicks ass.
It's what I would recommend, if he can't get this 30mm working the way he wants.
They are only abut $150 on Ebay. And I know how to jet them for the Bullet. None of the stock jets in the TM32 work for the Bullet, so you have to change everything. But it's not hard. You'll probably spend about $30-$35 in jets.

Boggy,
Use the pilot jet that it starts ad idles well with.
Then work on the main jet after that.
After you get the main jet set where it will go good on full-throttle, and show a good plug chop there, then work on the needle jet and needle for the midrange.

« Last Edit: August 07, 2011, 06:57:29 pm by ace.cafe »
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The Garbone

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Reply #39 on: August 07, 2011, 07:50:38 pm
Just a thought..

You should try it without the air filter with the 125 jet..  I remember I was getting a bog with the rain shield installed on my Ace can once the filter got a bit dirty, pulled the rain shield and it cleared up.   
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


boggy

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Reply #40 on: August 07, 2011, 08:09:58 pm
I'll try that Garbone.  I did it back with the old main in there, but not the 125.

Ace,
I'll also need a rubber mount to fit that carb to the Enfield, correct?  Can I ask the jet settings and needle position you are using on that 32mm?  I saw a post way back where you were running a 28mm Mikuni.

Is this the one?

http://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-TMX-Flat-Valve-Carb/dp/B000GV7S7Q
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ace.cafe

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Reply #41 on: August 07, 2011, 10:30:03 pm
I'll try that Garbone.  I did it back with the old main in there, but not the 125.

Ace,
I'll also need a rubber mount to fit that carb to the Enfield, correct?  Can I ask the jet settings and needle position you are using on that 32mm?  I saw a post way back where you were running a 28mm Mikuni.

Is this the one?

http://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-TMX-Flat-Valve-Carb/dp/B000GV7S7Q

We use the Mikuni TM32-1 on the Fireball. I haven't tried the TMX series.
We use these jets on the Fireball with the TM32
30 pilot
P4 needle jet
Standard needle with clip in 2nd groove from the top.
Standard slide cutaway
185 main jet

Yes, you need the rubber hose mount and a manifold stub, with a 32mm I.D. in the manifold. We make manifolds for the Iron Barrel, but i don't know if the size and stud spacing is correct for an AVL.
Sudco has a variety of rubber manifolds that don't require a hose, and sit right next to the head, and they only cost something like $25. If you can measure your stud spacing, you should be able to get an appropriate size one from them.
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boggy

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Reply #42 on: August 08, 2011, 01:23:00 pm
Ok. I appreciate the info. Now I have to decide if I continue to battle the pwk or start over with a mikuni. Even with some starter settings on the mikuni, I'll be at square one, but it will at least be "new."

The main on the pwk is easy to swap, but the pilot requires removal of at least the float bowl, and taking the whole carb off is easier.

How easy are jet swaps on the mikuni? I'm going to at least call CMW and have them price one out with the RE rubber mount that is needed.

Thanks again for sticking with me here.

By the way - I don't understand how to measure the float height. I've read a bit, but it's not clear.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2011, 03:35:02 pm by boggy »
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baird4444

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Reply #43 on: August 09, 2011, 12:54:43 am
To begin, the float height is 19mm for both the 24mm and 28/30 PWK carb:

If you open the bottom of the carb, turn the carb over first. If you simply pull the bottom off straight down you will see that it catches because the float is hanging down. If you force it off, you can bend the tab on the float and then the shutoff valve won't work properly and the carb will overflow all the time. Turn the carb over so the float is at the top before opening the bottom and do it gently.

Measure the height from the bottom of the float to carburetor-body gasket surface. When checking the float height, the float should be resting, but not depressing, the spring-loaded float valve pin. This can be done by tilting the carburetor until the float tab just makes contact with the valve pin. If adjustment is needed, bend the metal tab on the float arm until correct height is obtained.



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boggy

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Reply #44 on: August 09, 2011, 04:15:16 am
the float should be resting, but not depressing, the spring-loaded float valve pin.

Ah.  Perfect.  That's great info.  Thanks very much Baird.

Well, I'm hoping this is good news, but if my measuring is correct my float was also at 22mm.  I wonder if that is stock for this carb?  I know I've read similar findings on other PWK threads here.  I took it down to 19mm, as best as I could tell.  Cautioned on the smaller side but I think I got it pretty close on the mark.

I put my previous pilot in (38) since my idle was right on.  

I'm going to get up before work tomorrow and toss it on.  Fingers crossed.
« Last Edit: August 09, 2011, 04:28:01 am by boggy »
2007 AVL
2006 DRZ400SM